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Re: Adventures in lighting
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The lights came with 65w/55w lights in each housing. I was very afraid that I would burn something out if I ran them like that so I changed them to 35W each. I used the stock wiring to the new light as it's just plug and play. I ran into a problem a few weeks later, however. On the way home from work (in the daylight) I noticed the hi-beam indicator come on. I checked the switch and found that it was off so I couldn't see what the problem was until I came up to a vehicle at a stop light. I looked at my reflection on the back and saw that my headlights weren't on! I wasn't too far from home so I didn't panic too much but knew I needed to get into it ASAP. The indicator flashed on and off a few times the rest of the way home so I figured something was loose. Sure enough when I got the box open the light would flicker on and off when I moved the stock plug around. It was also hot to the touch. Near as I could figure is the stock plug couldn't handle the total of 70w going through it. I fixed it by hard wiring the stock wires to a new shorter plug wire and all is good. I do wonder if the indicator coming on is a safety feature letting you know that the headlight is not on. I do know that if a turn signal light is out the indicator will flash at a quicker pace like a car does.
Now for a question; the 35w from both lights is still not enough. Based on the manual, the bike is putting out 150w. I should be able to go to 45w bulbs in each with out any problems. But what about the wiring? I need someone to chime in about whether I can go that high and still not melt anything. It will be a total of 90w going through the stock wiring. I would really love to have more light as I have passed a few deer on the way to work and have not seen them until I was right up on them.
I'm not married to the dominators either as I was looking at the Yamaha WR250F headlight first and really like the look, so changing it (again) can still be an option. I did notice that the Konker KSM200 version of the bike has a headlight very close to the Yamaha's. I know the Yamy one has up and down adjustability so my problems might be solved if I could buy a Konker headlight. Any Canadian brothers here that might be able to help?
By the way, the small windshield does actually work. Not a lot but enough to notice. Along with the handguards I put on (pictures later) they both really help in cold weather riding.
Re: Adventures in lighting
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Here's the page off of the manual with the various lights and wattages;
SISTEMA DE ILUMINAÇÃO/sinalização/instrumentos
Item Especificações Quantidade
Lâmpadas Farol alto/baixo 12 V – 35/35 W Halógena 1
Lanterna do farol 12 V – 5 W 1
Lanterna traseira/luz do freio – STX 12 V – 5/21 W 1
Lanterna traseira/luz do freio – Motard Leds 1
Pisca 12 V – 10 W 4
Iluminação Painel com indicador de marchas 12V – 2W 4
dos instrumentos Painel sem indicador de marchas 12V – 2W 3
Indicadora de farol alto 12V – 2W 1
Indicadora de ponto morto 12V – 2W 1
Indicadoras dos piscas 12V – 2W 1
Indicador de marchas e neutro Display de leds 1
Fusível principal 15 A 1 (+ 1 Reserva)
Nope, I can't read this so we will need someone (forchetto?) to help out here. I did run it through the translator and some of the results need clearification. I can figure most out but am curious why it's not showing any wattage for the LED lights. I know it's low but is does draw some. I know I can get some wattage back by going to LED turn signals but how much? It looks like stock ones are drawing 10W each and only two are running at any given time. The payback might not be worth it except for not having to change bulbs.
Re: Adventures in lighting
I know a buddy of mine in Thailand said he melted the stock reflector on one of the first gen QingQi200 bikes when he swapped out the bulb. I believe he put a round DR200 reflector in with an HID kit to solve the problem.
Regarding the wiring, sounds like the best thing do do would be to ground the lights directly to the frame and run relay switched power from the battery. Stick some automotive harnesses in there and that should solve just about anything as long as the reflectors don't melt. :icon10:
CC
Re: Adventures in lighting
Quote:
Originally Posted by
david3921
Still More...
Here's the page off of the manual with the various lights and wattages;
SISTEMA DE ILUMINAÇÃO/sinalização/instrumentos
Item Especificações Quantidade
Lâmpadas Farol alto/baixo 12 V – 35/35 W Halógena 1
Lanterna do farol 12 V – 5 W 1
Lanterna traseira/luz do freio – STX 12 V – 5/21 W 1
Lanterna traseira/luz do freio – Motard Leds 1
Pisca 12 V – 10 W 4
Iluminação Painel com indicador de marchas 12V – 2W 4
dos instrumentos Painel sem indicador de marchas 12V – 2W 3
Indicadora de farol alto 12V – 2W 1
Indicadora de ponto morto 12V – 2W 1
Indicadoras dos piscas 12V – 2W 1
Indicador de marchas e neutro Display de leds 1
Fusível principal 15 A 1 (+ 1 Reserva)
Nope, I can't read this so we will need someone (forchetto?) to help out here. I did run it through the translator and some of the results need clearification. I can figure most out but am curious why it's not showing any wattage for the LED lights. I know it's low but is does draw some. I know I can get some wattage back by going to LED turn signals but how much? It looks like stock ones are drawing 10W each and only two are running at any given time. The payback might not be worth it except for not having to change bulbs.
I am sending this information over to help with calculations.
LED high-brightness 5mm - RED
FEATURES
Color: RED
Size: 5 mm
Bulb: Clear
Wavelength: 640 ~ 645 nm
Voltage: 1.8 ~ 2.2 v
Reverse current: <= 30 uA
Luminous Intensity: 5000 mcd
Life: 100,000 Hours
Anglo opening: 20 ~ 25 degrees
Consumption: 80mW
Max Continuous Forward Current: 30mA
Max Peak Forward Current: 75mA
Reverse Voltage: 5 ~ 6V
Soldering Temperature: 240 ° C (<5sec)
Operating Temperature: -25 ° C ~ +85 ° C
Preservation temperature: -30 ° C ~ +100 ° C
INFORMATION
470ohm resistor (12v).
High intensity.
Low power consumption.
Excellent life.
Note When used in cars, use the resistor 560OHM because it is more appropriate to this link
Re: Adventures in lighting
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Luis Carlos
I am sending this information over to help with calculations.
LED high-brightness 5mm - RED
FEATURES
Color: RED
Size: 5 mm
Bulb: Clear
Wavelength: 640 ~ 645 nm
Voltage: 1.8 ~ 2.2 v
Reverse current: <= 30 uA
Luminous Intensity: 5000 mcd
Life: 100,000 Hours
Anglo opening: 20 ~ 25 degrees
Consumption: 80mW
Max Continuous Forward Current: 30mA
Max Peak Forward Current: 75mA
Reverse Voltage: 5 ~ 6V
Soldering Temperature: 240 ° C (<5sec)
Operating Temperature: -25 ° C ~ +85 ° C
Preservation temperature: -30 ° C ~ +100 ° C
INFORMATION
470ohm resistor (12v).
High intensity.
Low power consumption.
Excellent life.
Note When used in cars, use the resistor 560OHM because it is more appropriate to this link
Thanks Luis. I am assuming from this that each bulb draws 80mW and that I have to get the total by multiplying how many bulbs are lit during braking and when the bike is running.
Re: Adventures in lighting
Quote:
Originally Posted by
CrazyCarl
I know a buddy of mine in Thailand said he melted the stock reflector on one of the first gen QingQi200 bikes when he swapped out the bulb. I believe he put a round DR200 reflector in with an HID kit to solve the problem.
Regarding the wiring, sounds like the best thing do do would be to ground the lights directly to the frame and run relay switched power from the battery. Stick some automotive harnesses in there and that should solve just about anything as long as the reflectors don't melt. :icon10:
CC
Carl, the reflectors shouldn't be a concern on the dominators as they came with 65w/55w bulbs. When I elliminated the stock plug I used a standard automotive harness with the three prongs. The stock harness does come with the three prong plug but is connected to a smaller plug that was melting. Look at fig. 24A here and you can see the plug;
http://www.motoduragon.com/dragondoc/QM200GY.html
It's been awhile since my last electronics class so is there a way to tell how many watts can safely be run though the stock wiring?
(edit) Ok, I think I was being lazy. The formula to convert amps to watts is
A=w/v
A=90w/12v
A= 7.5
According to the American Wire Gauge table I need 20 ga (.8128mm) to run 11 amps. 22 ga would be too small for 7 amps. So I am off to check what size wiring I (we) have.
Re: Adventures in lighting
Hi david3921 I just scored a KONKER KSM 200 MOTARD from [ www.minimotors.com ]in Fredericton N.B. [ CANADA ]a great shop as they sell the brand and are the east coast distributors too.They have many spares on hand or could get you what you need. You could also try [ www.konkermotors.com ] as they will deal with you directly.They have a bit of info on the KSM200 MOTARD and under the parts section they have a complete parts list with pictures and some prices too.Hope this helps ya. cheers!
Re: Adventures in lighting
Thanks Bubba. I did check out the Konker site for parts for the KSM200 a few weeks back and almost had a heart attack. It doesn't show a price for the headlight assembly but the cowl and lamp cover together is $200! It's also showing the rear shock at $450 and the front fork assembly at a whopping $1500!!! My Qlink XF200 cost me $2000 so I'm going to be hard pressed to fork over $400 for a headlight assembly and covers. I can get a set for a Yamaha WR450 for $170.
I really don't understand this as the other bike and ATV parts prices are far more reasonable.
