Changing fork oil on Qlink QingQi 200

I did a lot of searching on how to change the fork oil on my Qlink XF200. I didn't like the way the front dove so much during braking. I tried adding a 2" spacer to increase the preload. While this helped, it wasn't enough. All of the posts I found here and elsewhere said that I had to disassemble the forks from the bike. I didn't want to do this as I just installed new lighting (more on that in another post). Last night I bit the bullet and finally got a motorcycle jack from Harbor Freight. Yep, we have a store a couple miles from here and it's been a godsend for a number of projects. Anyway, since I already was familiar with removing the top fork caps I thought would go whole hog and see what was really in there. The manual found elsewhere on this site for this type of motorcycle doesn't cover USD forks so I was left with my intuition that I could replace the fork oil without removing the forks from the bike.

I was right.

It's even possible to keep the disassembly to a minimum to try different weights fairly quick to find the right one.

..and yes I took pictures.

Ok, here goes.

Take off the front fork protectors. These are held on with two screws each and slide up and off.

Take off the brake line routing bracket. Two bolts hold it on

Jack up the front so that the wheel is about 8" off of the ground. This makes room for boards placed under the wheel later.

Loosen the top bolts on the tree. This will allow the top caps to be loosened.

Lossen the top caps. You will notice that they "catch" after turning a bit. This means that they are loose.

Place boards under the front wheel. Make sure the wheel is straight and that the boards are wide enough to hold a container on each side to catch the oil. A small sheet of plywood on top of a couple of board works well.

Lower the bike all the way to the bottom of the stoke. The caps will pop up with the cartrage.

More;

Take off top caps. There is a flat spot under the cap to put a wrench on.

Pull down on the round pipe and remove the clip that holds the end of the cartrage. You can remove the pipe and glide that fits at the end of the pipe. Don't worry if the glide falls off. It's held there by the pressure of the cartrage.

Now, an important step. Measure the space between the top of the fork and the bottom of the "nut" on the top of the cartrage. This will tell you later if you've gotten everything back correctly. I had to take the picture at an angle so don't go by the measurement seen. As a reference, mine was 6.25".

Now it time to drain the oil. At the end of each fork is a bolt. This holds the cartrage in the fork. Others have said that it is difficult to get this back in correctly. I found an easy way to do this which I will go into soon.

Remove the bolt and drain the oil. I measured what I removed, and after adding in what was on the springs and what I spilled, it did look like is came out to the 330ml recommended.

The cartrage can be removed and the oil pumped out. Because I was trying to get an acurate measurement of the oil, I pumped mine into the fork and let it drain down into the container. It really doesn't matter just so you get it out. You can do both forks at the same time provide you have two catch containers.

Pull the springs out. This is necessary to be able to see to the bottom of the fork. I didn't notice which way mine came out but the ends are different. Most will say it doesn't matter but I remember reading something about "spring noise". On assembly, I put the more coiled end in first.

Notice on the end of the cartrage that there are flat spots. This important for reassembly. More on that in the next post.

Reassembly. It's pretty much the reverse but with some important notes.

At the bottom of forks there are flat spots that line up with the flats on the cartrage. You can barly see them in the picture below. They are on the lower right on my right hand fork. These flats keep the cartrage from turning when tighting the bolt at the bottom of the forks. Mark the location of the cartrage flats on the top of the cartrage where the rod meets the main body. I used a paint pen. You want to be able to see from the top the location of the flats so that you can turn the cartrage so that it drops into the correct position in the fork. With the right lighting you can see the flats at the bottom of the fork and put the cartrage close when reinstalling. You can turn the cartrage by the rod until it catches in the flat.

Replace the bolt. As a note, the bolt has a copper crush washer. I have a set of washers from Harbor Freight but didn't have the correct size so I flipped them and reused them. You have to work them off with a screw driver a bit at a time as they are a tight fit.

After tightening the bolt use the measurement taken before to ensure the cartrage is seated correctly. If it's too long, loosen the bolt and rotate the cartrage until you get it right.

The cartrage rod will tend to slid down until it gets oil back in it. Don't worry about letting it go as it can be retreived with needle nose pliers.

So here's the steps for reassembly;

Cartrages in.
Rotate to fit into flat.
Bolts in.
Measure with rod extended.
Springs in.
Oil in. Pour in 330ml into each slowly.
Pump cartrage rods to get oil in and air out.
Sleeve in (if fell off of pipe), pipe on.
Push down pipe while holding cartrage rod up, put on clip.
End caps on. Rubber bushing first, then cap.
Jack up bike, caps go down.
Tighten caps. careful that the caps thread correctly.
Tighten tree bolts.
Replace brake hose bracket and fork protectors.

I think that's it. Let me know if I missed anything.

As a side note. As stated in the first post, I think it's possible to try different weights by doing the following;

Take out the bottom bolt and drain the oil.
Replace the bolt.
Measure what comes out of each fork.
Pop the top caps as decribed earlier and pour in the new weight based on what came out of each fork.

This seems like a quick and dirty way to check for the correct oil weight. Once determined, the whole procedure described above can be done if desired.

Astonishing...:eekers: Never thought it could be done like that, thanks for the detailed write up and photos.

David,

Great stuff! Pictures and all! :clap:

On a side note... is that an old Honda Sabre VF700S in your garage next to the 200? :mwink:

CC

Thanks guys.

I was wondering if you would notice the other bike Carl. It's a 1984 Magna
V65. It does have Sabre exhausts on it as I haven't gotten into getting the Kerkers I bought installed. I decided to black it out and I'm almost done with it. I'll post some pictures in the off-post area when I'm done if you would like to see it.

David,

Great work and thanks for sharing all the details with us. :clap: What weight fork oil did you use?

Cheers!
ChinaV

Quote:

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Originally Posted by david3921

I was wondering if you would notice the other bike Carl. It's a 1984 Magna
V65. It does have Sabre exhausts on it as I haven't gotten into getting the Kerkers I bought installed. I decided to black it out and I'm almost done with it. I'll post some pictures in the off-post area when I'm done if you would like to see it.

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Well sure I'd like to see it! Hey, some of the Sabmag (SabreMagna - Gen 1) list is having a get together in your neck of the woods at the Willville Bike Camp come August 15 I believe. If you're not already on the Sabmag list, these guys are good to know and, of course, generally nuts. :icon10:

www.sabmag.org is a good starting place if your interested. Also, yearly events around the country if you've got the travlin' bug. :riding:

CC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChinaV

David,

Great work and thanks for sharing all the details with us. :clap: What weight fork oil did you use?

Cheers!
ChinaV

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Thanks China,
I did a home made viscosity test between 10w fork oil and some ATF I had left over from a fluid change. The ATF was thicker so I put that in. I haven't tried it out yet but if I need more dampening, I'll go with 20w like kingmarty45 did.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by david3921

Reassembly. It's pretty much the reverse but with some important notes.

At the bottom of forks there are flat spots that line up with the flats on the cartrage. You can barly see them in the picture below. They are on the lower right on my right hand fork. These flats keep the cartrage from turning when tighting the bolt at the bottom of the forks. Mark the location of the cartrage flats on the top of the cartrage where the rod meets the main body. I used a paint pen. You want to be able to see from the top the location of the flats so that you can turn the cartrage so that it drops into the correct position in the fork. With the right lighting you can see the flats at the bottom of the fork and put the cartrage close when reinstalling. You can turn the cartrage by the rod until it catches in the flat.

Replace the bolt. As a note, the bolt has a copper crush washer. I have a set of washers from Harbor Freight but didn't have the correct size so I flipped them and reused them. You have to work them off with a screw driver a bit at a time as they are a tight fit.

After tightening the bolt use the measurement taken before to ensure the cartrage is seated correctly. If it's too long, loosen the bolt and rotate the cartrage until you get it right.

The cartrage rod will tend to slid down until it gets oil back in it. Don't worry about letting it go as it can be retreived with needle nose pliers.

So here's the steps for reassembly;

Cartrages in.
Rotate to fit into flat.
Bolts in.
Measure with rod extended.
Springs in.
Oil in. Pour in 330ml into each slowly.
Pump cartrage rods to get oil in and air out.
Sleeve in (if fell off of pipe), pipe on.
Push down pipe while holding cartrage rod up, put on clip.
End caps on. Rubber bushing first, then cap.
Jack up bike, caps go down.
Tighten caps. careful that the caps thread correctly.
Tighten tree bolts.
Replace brake hose bracket and fork protectors.

I think that's it. Let me know if I missed anything.

As a side note. As stated in the first post, I think it's possible to try different weights by doing the following;

Take out the bottom bolt and drain the oil.
Replace the bolt.
Measure what comes out of each fork.
Pop the top caps as decribed earlier and pour in the new weight based on what came out of each fork.

This seems like a quick and dirty way to check for the correct oil weight. Once determined, the whole procedure described above can be done if desired.

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Hello David ,could I ask you one question,when you have the cartrage and rod out of the fork, can the fork be part so to replace the seals? Phil

Phil,
The forks have to be out of the bike to replace the seals as the two tubes need to be separated by pulling the lower tube (silver) out of the upper (gold).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by david3921

Phil,
The forks have to be out of the bike to replace the seals as the two tubes need to be separated by pulling the lower tube (silver) out of the upper (gold).

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Sorry david,One more question,,, Can the two tubes be separated after you have the rod and cartrigde out no more rods nuts flat side or anything.The reason I ask is I,m going to have to do this work on a city street and like you have not been able to find any usefull info.Actually the oil stopped dripping weeks ago,I have just got use to it,and ride acordingly.

Phil,
If you are looking to replace the seals then you have to take the forks out of the bike. The manual found here details how to do it.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353

It's in Portuguese but it's pretty easy to figure out.

David,Thanks for your help,the pictures in the manual are really helpfull,plus there is a portugese guy at work who is interested in bikes,he will not be needing change for the coffee machine for the next week or two.all the best Phil:thumbsup:

David,

"Take out the bottom bolt and drain the oil.
Replace the bolt.
Measure what comes out of each fork.
Pop the top caps as decribed earlier and pour in the new weight based on what came out of each fork."
Are you talking about the allen head bolt at the bottom end of the fork?
Thanks,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by barnone

David,

"Take out the bottom bolt and drain the oil.
Replace the bolt.
Measure what comes out of each fork.
Pop the top caps as decribed earlier and pour in the new weight based on what came out of each fork."
Are you talking about the allen head bolt at the bottom end of the fork?
Thanks,

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Yep, that's the one.

David,

Have you drained the fork oil by removing that bolt? If so how much oil came out compared to "I measured what I removed, and after adding in what was on the springs and what I spilled, it did look like is came out to the 330ml recommended."

Thanks.

Bar, I've done this twice now. Recently, I put in 20w to try to cut down the diving in the front end. It helps some but doesn't totally eliminate the problem. Both times I measured out 330 ml and poured it in. I've had no problems with this amount.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by david3921

Bar, I've done this twice now. Recently, I put in 20w to try to cut down the diving in the front end. It helps some but doesn't totally eliminate the problem. Both times I measured out 330 ml and poured it in. I've had no problems with this amount.

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david,
I am little dense here. So by just removing the bottom bolt and pumping the front end you can get out the whole 330ml of fork oil. That's great if am am understanding you correctly. I never have gotten all the oil out by using the drain bolts on other bikes. Unfortunately most newer bikes don't have drain bolts anymore so usually I can get most out with a suction pump and long tube.

I just got my new 2009 Qink XF200 and haven't notices that much fork dive but I am taking it easy on the bike since I am in the break in period. She does do well in the twisties.

Anyway thanks for all your documentation.

Not to change the subject of this POST - But thought I'd give this a try and ask - Can anyone advise on adjustment of the front fork tubes to LOWER The bike a bit? I'ce had several people tell me now I can lower the front abit - becuase I am vertically challanged! LOL :) i ONLY AM LOOKING AT ABOUT A INNCH OR LESS. Looking for detailed advise on which bolts to loosen on how to achieve this adjustment. Thanks much!
Andrew

JTc,
Not to be a smart ass but if you have never done the lowering of a bike by dropping it down in the triple trees then I recommend for safety reason that you take it to a good independent shop to have it done. Also you should lower the rear a like amount by reducing the preload on the rear shock to keep the bike level.
Should not take more than an hour of labor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by barnone

david,
I am little dense here. So by just removing the bottom bolt and pumping the front end you can get out the whole 330ml of fork oil. That's great if am am understanding you correctly. I never have gotten all the oil out by using the drain bolts on other bikes. Unfortunately most newer bikes don't have drain bolts anymore so usually I can get most out with a suction pump and long tube.

I just got my new 2009 Qink XF200 and haven't notices that much fork dive but I am taking it easy on the bike since I am in the break in period. She does do well in the twisties.

Anyway thanks for all your documentation.

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Bar, I get the diving while braking. I mostly drive back and forth to work and sometime have to stop quickly in heavy traffic. The front end dives a little too much for me so I am working on that. If the 20w is not enough for me I might go either heavier or stiffer springs.

The bolt on the bottom is not a drain bolt but rather holds the cartrage. It can be used to drain the oil if the internal parts are pulled per my instructions.

Thanks Barnone - After examing the front end of the Qlink I probably will not go that route anyways. If you get any out of the front tubes it would only be about 1/2" or less, becuase the top of the tubes would actually hit the bars, and without bar risers I do not see it being worth it. I'm still trying to locate my lost spanner wrench to make that rear shock adjustment. I'm sure a few turns will probably give me what I'm looking for. Oh yeah thanks for looking out for my safety!!! lol :)

On the old school forks I used to add extra oil to get more progressive compression in the fork and do this now on my trials bikes. Usually make 10 mm changes in depth until satisfied.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sven trials

On the old school forks I used to add extra oil to get more progressive compression in the fork and do this now on my trials bikes. Usually make 10 mm changes in depth until satisfied.

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Friendly and useful first post in MCM, sven trials. Welcome. You list your location as "wa" -- given your interest in trials, is it safe to assume that is Washington state? Or have you figured a way to trial your way up through Rock Creek Park in the nation's capital?

And are you using a China bike for your trials riding? I think a lot of us would be interested in that if it's the case. Oh, and the rule around here is that your bike doesn't exist without pictures! Please feel free to post early and often!

Again, welcome and looking forward to more smart posts.

cheers

Thanks for the feedback, I ride trials in Washington State after taking a 10yr break and run a Gasgas 280 pro. My interest in China bike is of seeing what is new and different. My view of these bike reminds me of jap bike of the 70's, but I am finding that they are more than that. I enjoy the trip reports and what people are doing worldwide. I am trying to buy then build a KIkker Hardknock which is a Chinese sourced bike and if that falls though I may go with a Dualsport instead.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sven trials

Thanks for the feedback, I ride trials in Washington State after taking a 10yr break and run a Gasgas 280 pro. My interest in China bike is of seeing what is new and different. My view of these bike reminds me of jap bike of the 70's, but I am finding that they are more than that. I enjoy the trip reports and what people are doing worldwide. I am trying to buy then build a KIkker Hardknock which is a Chinese sourced bike and if that falls though I may go with a Dualsport instead.

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A GasGas 280 -- you mean like this? (With apologies to those inside the GFW with no veepeeyen...)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...;v=9CdgVTlj130

There is no one more skilled than a good trials rider!

cheers

I have an older version of that bike. My first bike was a yamaha ty80 in 1976 and have ridden woods, motocross, but always loved trials. Its kind of like golf where you only challenge yourself and in an event your competition tries to help you, not beat you. Wish we had more rock areas in WA, Logs and mud is fun but rocks demand more from you.

st