My blog of a Jetmax 250

I will start my life with the Jetmax here. I will post thoughts, likes and concerns.
This is day three with my new scoot, and this morning it went in for its first service.
Yesterday I let it run until the fuel warning started to flash, so I promptly went to fill up, low and behold it took 8.5 litres, so I assume there is still 4 litres left when the warning shows. I will try this again soon to see if it is a constant reading. I have set up a "Fuelly" account to monitor mileage returns, and I will try and keep up with entries, here's the link for anyone who may be interested.

Today I noticed the bolt that hold the front wheel has thread protruding from the right hand side, should there be a nut here or is it the way its supposed to be?

Also in my documentation it doesn't say that I have adjustable rear shocks, but it looks to me as they may be adjustable, if this is the case, anyone know what they are set to or how to adjust. I would like to firm up the back end, well possibly the front too if its possible. Well thats it for now :riding:

Oh my... Perhaps scooters, unlike all the normal motorcycles, don't have nuts on front wheel axle, but I would put one and a washer too.

As much can I see from the photograph, it is possible to adjust spring preload on the rear shock absorber.

The front axle does protrude the side of the fork as shown in your photo, and no it does not require a nut to secure it. I think you will find if you look at the fork leg (opposite side) you will notice that there are two smaller bolts that have Allen heads, which are used to secure the axle in place. Simple design and one found on some motorcycles as well. There is a similar set up to this on my 2007 Yamaha Dragstar XV1100A Classic - it's not exactly the same design but the principle is there. So no worries there.

As for your shocks, yes they are adjustable for preload. You should find the adjustment spanner in the tool kit. Using that tool, you place one end into a slot near the adjustment collar with the stepped graduations, to either turn one way (by pulling the collar using the spanner as a lever) to compress the spring and therefore make the shock spring shorter and thereby stiffen the compression (preload) or the opposite way to make the spring longer for the opposite affect.

Hope my explanation without pictures makes sense.

I'd ask your dealer or wherever you have the bike serviced to check all the bolts and screws (e.g. all the screws for attaching the plastics etc) for tightness. I prefer to do this myself, as it's a good way to learn where everything is on a bike, so that you can be prepared in the event of a failure or whatever.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Oh my... Perhaps scooters, unlike all the normal motorcycles, don't have nuts on front wheel axle, but I would put one and a washer too.

As much can I see from the photograph, it is possible to adjust spring preload on the rear shock absorber.

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Thanks for the reply Zorge..

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

The front axle does protrude the side of the fork as shown in your photo, and no it does not require a nut to secure it. I think you will find if you look at the fork leg (opposite side) you will notice that there are two smaller bolts that have Allen heads, which are used to secure the axle in place. Simple design and one found on some motorcycles as well. There is a similar set up to this on my 2007 Yamaha Dragstar XV1100A Classic - it's not exactly the same design but the principle is there. So no worries there.

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Thanks for that bikerdoc, its put my mind at ease :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

As for your shocks, yes they are adjustable for preload. You should find the adjustment spanner in the tool kit. Using that tool, you place one end into a slot near the adjustment collar with the stepped graduations, to either turn one way (by pulling the collar using the spanner as a lever) to compress the spring and therefore make the shock spring shorter and thereby stiffen the compression (preload) or the opposite way to make the spring longer for the opposite affect.

Hope my explanation without pictures makes sense.

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Yes made sense, I didn't have a spanner to fit in my toolkit, but I used the allen key and viola, sorted :icon10:

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

I'd ask your dealer or wherever you have the bike serviced to check all the bolts and screws (e.g. all the screws for attaching the plastics etc) for tightness. I prefer to do this myself, as it's a good way to learn where everything is on a bike, so that you can be prepared in the event of a failure or whatever.

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I think I will have a go myself, but at the next service I'll get the mechanics to check aswell....

Shock absorber update, I took the adjustment up 3 clicks, and it has improved my ride (it was set to the softest setting- like riding a bouncy castle). I may take it right up an see how it is. Probably on the cards is a shock upgrade to a decent set..
Noticed today that the left front indicator has water in it (it hasn't stopped raining here). I will have to remove and check it out, Hopefully just an ill fitting boot, will keep you all posted. Overall still very very happy with the sccot:icon10:

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Did you manage to adjust preload with bare hands and with a little Greco Roman wrestling with a scooter, or you have found the right tool? Allen key and viola - somehow I can't imagine... :)

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Did you manage to adjust preload with bare hands and with a little Greco Roman wrestling with a scooter, or you have found the right tool? Allen key and viola - somehow I can't imagine... :)

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I was surprised myself. Allen key fitted the slot, scoot was on centre stand, no effort at all.....

Few more observations.
I have become aware or an irritating rubbing noise from the handle bars, this is coming from the bar covers coming into contact with the dash. I doubt if there is any adjustment, just poor fit and finish.
The mirrors contact the widscreen before a full lock is achieved, this has caused an occassional issue when trying to maneuver in tight situations. I will have to investigate alternative mirrors, possibly bar ends.
I have adjusted the shocks to their max setting, I will see how this affects the handling.
Looks like I'm getting around 70mpg (imperial), going to see if I can massage this a little.
Scoot is a little grubby now, I will treat it to a wash and polish at the week end.

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Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter

Few more observations.
I have become aware or an irritating rubbing noise from the handle bars, this is coming from the bar covers coming into contact with the dash. I doubt if there is any adjustment, just poor fit and finish.

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Mine and my mates Jetmax don't have this problem, and three other riders who also have the Jetmax round this area that I know, don't have the problem either. You're likely right being that it will be a QA thing on the assembly line. I know that with all the models and the rapid rate of development and R&D, they (CFMoto) can't keep up with the demand. No excuses but it might be that not all staff on various aspects of assembly are up to speed with what's required. No excuses though, as QA should always be there. I'd either take it back to the dealer to put right, which should be simple enough, or tackle it oneself as it is only screws (PK head) to get the bar tupperware off (4 external ones then two once you get to the inside up near the swtichgear assemblies). It's likely the plastics just need removal then reapplication. Just my thoughts.

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Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter

The mirrors contact the widscreen before a full lock is achieved, this has caused an occassional issue when trying to maneuver in tight situations. I will have to investigate alternative mirrors, possibly bar ends.

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The very first thing when I bought my Jetmax, was ask the dealer to swap the standard mirrors out with some after market ones. I paid for these myself ($10) and had the dealer install them before the bike left the showroom. The reason was the design was too vertical for my liking, and also did touch the endges of the screen. See my review. Since then I've fitted a pair of mirrors that fit the CF650NK and they look the part totally.

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Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter

I have adjusted the shocks to their max setting, I will see how this affects the handling.

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Here in China, CFMoto still sell the Jetmax with the standard non-adjustable rear shocks. I called them only a few days ago, but the domestic retail sales person wasn't aware there were any other type of shocks being installed ex-factory on the Jetmax. I'm having someone else look into it. The rear with the standard non-adjustable shocks needs to have adjustability, which I've accomplished by fitting some aftermarket shocks (preload/dampening) which makes a nice difference.

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Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter

Looks like I'm getting around 70mpg (imperial), going to see if I can massage this a little.

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Theres a substantial difference in the mileage the Jetmax gets compared to my Burgman Executive 650. The Jetmax wins out on that one by a significant margin.

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Originally Posted by WirralGhostHunter

Scoot is a little grubby now, I will treat it to a wash and polish at the week end.

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Shiny side up :scooter:

I can't get the right perspective from the photo, but I suppose that the problem is current position of handlebar switches and brake cylinders, together with their levers. Try to rotate them a little in the direction like when you open throttle. After that is easy to adjust mirrors - loose 14 mm nuts, pull back mirror rods...

Also, do not forget to spray some silicone lubricant inside the mirror joints. After that, they become... how to say... very adjustable in all directions, without fear that you'll break them during this adjustment process.

About the mirrors: I have a couple of those, but they came in matte black. In fact, the mirrors itself are not bad at all - they are bifocal. The only problem were too short mirror rods - with them you could only see the reflection of your own elbows. I made a new, longer mirror rods, and the visibility of what is going on behind me, drastically improved.

If you decide to make longer mirror rods, beside with their length, you can also experiment with the angle under which rod was bent, the height where the bend is, etc.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

Mine and my mates Jetmax don't have this problem, and three other riders who also have the Jetmax round this area that I know, don't have the problem either. You're likely right being that it will be a QA thing on the assembly line. I know that with all the models and the rapid rate of development and R&D, they (CFMoto) can't keep up with the demand. No excuses but it might be that not all staff on various aspects of assembly are up to speed with what's required. No excuses though, as QA should always be there. I'd either take it back to the dealer to put right, which should be simple enough, or tackle it oneself as it is only screws (PK head) to get the bar tupperware off (4 external ones then two once you get to the inside up near the swtichgear assemblies). It's likely the plastics just need removal then reapplication. Just my thoughts.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

I can't get the right perspective from the photo, but I suppose that the problem is current position of handlebar switches and brake cylinders, together with their levers. Try to rotate them a little in the direction like when you open throttle. After that is easy to adjust mirrors - loose 14 mm nuts, pull back mirror rods...

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Thanks for the input guys.
Given me the idea of taking the plastics off, slacken the handle bars and rotate them, hopefully curing the panel rubbing and mirror fouling in one shot. Will post results.
This forum is great, thanks again :clap:

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Originally Posted by Zorge

I can't get the right perspective from the photo, but I suppose that the problem is current position of handlebar switches and brake cylinders, together with their levers. Try to rotate them a little in the direction like when you open throttle. After that is easy to adjust mirrors - loose 14 mm nuts, pull back mirror rods...

Also, do not forget to spray some silicone lubricant inside the mirror joints. After that, they become... how to say... very adjustable in all directions, without fear that you'll break them during this adjustment process.

About the mirrors: I have a couple of those, but they came in matte black. In fact, the mirrors itself are not bad at all - they are bifocal. The only problem were too short mirror rods - with them you could only see the reflection of your own elbows. I made a new, longer mirror rods, and the visibility of what is going on behind me, drastically improved.

If you decide to make longer mirror rods, beside with their length, you can also experiment with the angle under which rod was bent, the height where the bend is, etc.

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That is almost the same as what one of my foreign mates did with his mirrors on his Jetmax. He removed them, bent the "rods" to give them more of an angle, then remounted them. That cured the problem where they gave a great view of his body (shoulders/elbows or other parts of his anatomy) to provide views behind him. I can't recall if used any heat on the rods or just put them in a bender (he has is own metals fabrication and manufacturing plant). As for the bottom of the tupperware on the handlebars, from what I see in the one photo, it looks as though the tupperware needs removal and then re-adjustment when refitting. It might be that the tupperware left the factory ok, but was knocked out of alignment somewhere along the supply chain. Pity the dealer didn't pick up on it, before you took delivery.

Rain stopped today, so I decided to investigate the handle bar problem. What a nice easy fix, removed the centre music control, and I was able to get a ring spanner in, five minutes later job sorted. Whoever put it together like this needs a good talking to. Perhaps the are imported partially assembled, in which case the dealer needs talking to. While I was about it, I thought I would have a go at sorting the water problem. It was now in both headlights and indicators, and because of the warmer weather the water was condensating inside, making the once crystal clear lenes opaque. Well this turned out a bit more of a job (I used bikerdocs post as a guide). Anyhow panels off. headlights off (here I noticed little sections covered with tabs of insulating tape, this looked like the culprits letting in the water as they were open to the inside of the lens. A few dolops of silicone sorted these out (only had white silicone - no one will see it behind there). Also one headlight bulb was just rattlingt about inside the lens. It turned out that the screw that holds the wire retainter wasn't seated, the hole was bigger than the screw, so I mixed up a tiny bit of epoxy to sort it out, now the lamp is secure.
During disassembly I found that around eight clips (the ones the self tappers screw into) where missing, so were the screws. I remembered a small cardboard box under the seat had a plastic bag with bits inside, well it turned out to be the clips and self tappers... I fitted where they were needed and reassembled. Final job while I was under the scoot was to fit a charging socket, I wanted it external, so as to make it a quick job to put it on a trickle charge. I utilised the battery cover, and after a bit of flaffing got it sorted. Now the front doesnt squeak and groan anymore, all tight and ship shape. and connecting the charger a piece of cake. I'm leaving the scoot uncovered tonight (looks like rain) to see if the water ingress is sorted. Will keep you posted. Oh, I took a pillion out today, Jetmax pulled like a champ.
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I am scratching my head wondering why the headlight assembly had those holes? Mine has tape in those locations, but when I removed the tape there was no holes there. I seem to recall that there were however obvious imperfections at those locations which I assumed were related to the moulding process used. Could be wrong. I actually bought an extra set (pair) of headlights as I was going to experiment a bit with them and try and fit some LED's into the headlight just above the park lights. Never happened though as I worked out I'd break the seal of the headlights from the assembly and then be faced with a not too dissimilar as yourself with water and condensation.

Just a word of caution with the bodywork (tupperware) screws and more importantly those self taping clips. If one doesn't use something like a pair of pliers or similar to squeeze/compress the clips, they'll easily vibrate out of position. Most of those that do vibrate out depending on - from where, can often be found collected on the inside of the lower tupperware underneath the frame and engine. Just a heads up on that.

I've found that the battery doesn't like not being used for a week or more. So using a trickle charger is recommended for periods where the scoot is not used or otherwise laid up for 5+ days at a time.

One other thing concerns starting. No need to use the throttle when starting these EFI bikes. When started one needs to let the engine get up to temperature or at least past the point where the auto choke has 'disengaged' before one switches the engine/scoot off. Doing so prematurely when the engine hasn't had enough time to warm up and the auto choke is still 'activated' plays havoc with the engine and EFI being caught between too richer versus lean condition. When one tries to restart the scoot after this occurring then a hard start situation MAY transpire where the bike engine turns over but won't start leading to a flooded condition and a strong aroma of gasoline. In this situation the best thing to do is WOT the throttle. In other words twist to full throttle when hitting the starter switch. Keep the throttle fully open and the engine should eventually catch/start. YMMV.

Well its seems the water is still getting into the headlight and indicator. Thought I had sorted them, but another stripdown to investigate is now on the cards :confused1:
The other side has no problems. Ah well, will report back here...............
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Bad day today.
I thought now that I have covered over a thousand miles, I would treat my scoot to a transmission oil change.
Two bolts (filler & drain) got to be an easy job - Right? WRONG!
The filler bolt unscrews easily enough, now that drain bung...........
The damn thing fouls on the trans cover :confused1:
Time to look at the service manual.........
Sure enough - got to remove the trans cover, how difficult can that be?
OK, I remove all the perimeter bolts - COVER WONT COME AWAY
I remove right plastic cover to see if there is something hidden - cant see anything.
Next I remove the left plastic cover (three allen bolts)..
Underneath is a plastic grille over a sponge filter held by two screws - I remove them.
Hmmm... Looks like the circlip might need to come off, grrrrrr... not enough clearance because of the nut and washer (not shown in diagram)
Well sure enough the nut wont unscrew, I need a way to lock it to stop it from spinning. I thought about pushing a thin extension from my socket set through one of the gaps to stop it rotating - I'd better not - knowing my luck I would break one of the fins.
OK, dip into my wallet and rent an electric impact wrench to shift it.
Nut comes away, next I remove the circlip - and you guessed it - COVER WONT COME AWAY
So I replace everything to where it belongs and admit defeat.
If someone wants to step up to the plate and tell me where I went wrong or give advice - PLEASE DO.
Also I really need one of those Batman search lights - so I can get bikerdocs attention (Jetmax guru) :bowdown:
My bad day ends :gaah:

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Easy job. Just roll scooter upside down adn drain oil through filler.:riding:




Jokes aside. If the cover is so stubborn, try to suck oil out through filler with some thinly hose.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

Jokes aside. If the cover is so stubborn, try to suck oil out through filler with some thinly hose.

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Thanks for that Zorge - good idea - and I have one somewhere.

Would still like to fathom out where I'm going wrong - the belt will need replacing at sometime:taz:

Sorry was away and missed this one... based on the manual schematic I will refer to the numbers used...

1. remove all the transmission cover bolts (items #9)
2. remove the snap on/off rearward plastic cover with "CFMOTO" on it (item #21)
3. remove the 3 bolts and lugs (items #1 and #2) that secure the forward plastic cover and remove (item #3)
4. remove the plastic foam filter retainer screws (item #4)
5. remove the plastic foam filter retainer (item #5)
6. remove the foam filter element (item #6)
7. DO NOT remove the cir-clip (item #7) or bearing set (item #8) as they are not needed to be removed to get either the transmission casing off or the variator pulley off.
8. If you need to remove the variator pulley or rear pulley shaft nut(s) you will need an impact driver (either a electric or air powered one, as a manual impact driver will not work (e.g. the type that one strikes with a hammer)). I hasten to add that I've had the transmission casing off, 4-5 times, (have replaced the drive belt twice even though the belt being replaced looked clean without any cracking I thought it prudent to change them anyway. The only observable difference between the old and new belts was that the old belt was not as wide across the belt due to some wear.
9. The transmission casing will not come away the first time freely without some assistance, which a rubber mallet will provide. Strike the casing all the way around its circumference and also several blows to the exterior surface. This should loosen the fit. If doing so provides a gap between the casing and the tranny proper where you can gain some purchase for leverage then use a suitable pry bar or such like to slowly pry the transmission casing away from the transmission housing taking any necessary precaution to minimise any damage to the alloy. Keep working at it, you'll get there. Once the casing has been removed the first time, every other time it is removed thereafter will be far less stressful.

While you are in there it won't hurt to look at the variator and roller weights etc to check condition, and perhaps get a little acquainted with the assembly as the roller weights will need replacing at some point in the future. Keep in mind that the weights are something you can replace with after market rollers or sliders should you wish too. Also check that the ramp surfaces where the rollers roll or slide against are clean, as these will wear too, meaning a replacement of the variator which is co$tly. Going for after market sliders might be a better option, and being that you are in the UK there'll likely be lots of choices. You need to know the weight of the roller weights individually and the dimensions etc, so this would be a good time to make a note of that info.

Hope this helps...

Just to satisfy a personal curiosity: what is in between the transmission casing and its cover?

Is there a classic gasket or some viscous sealant?

No, since the tranny case is just that a case so it's dry inside, and simply houses the variator, belt, rear drive pulley and clutch shoes etc. no gasket needed, unlike the transmission itself which is the oil you are looking to change. I've updated my last post (page 2 of this thread) but forgot to mention its a good time to clean the tranny filter while its off...

I thought it might be something that keeps belt and pulleys dry.

no worries, it doesn't appear to suffer any moisture issues, unless an unscheduled dip were to happen. Are you planning to take the tranny case off? If so then I might put together a photo array of what is involved to help you through it, otherwise I think the steps I outlined should guide you (and others)... I know that the tranny casing was difficult the first time to remove and that applied to both mine and friends Jetmax. The subsequent times the tranny case was removed thereafter - no such difficulty!

Thanks for your post bikerdoc, it has given me the motivation to have another go. I have ordered an electric impact wrench, as renting one is not worthwhile (I plan to delve into the case to keep it maintained). Hey if you have a photo sequence of any jobs you carry out, I am sure it will be of great use, not only to myself, but all Jetmax owners. Keep up the great work.

Time to re-seal the headlight & indicator lens plus swap out the standard halogens for xenon ones.
I really wasn't looking forward to taking the front of the scoot off again, but I had my new xenon bulbs waiting for over a week on my desk. So I nipped out and purchased a new tube of clear silicone. I was hoping that it was sorted last time, but the amount of water inside was amazing, I'm still not too sure how it gets in, this is both the headlight and indicator enclosures (left side).
From the pic you should make out the water droplets, I initially thought this was on the outside - but oh no! - on the inside...... STRANGE....
On closer inspection I think it is entering along the edge of the lens where it meets the case (see pics).
I dont want to do this again, so the silicone went on, right around both of the culprits - LIBERALLY.........
OK so the left side went back on, the smell of silicone nearly knocking me out, and off comes the right hand side (to swap the bulb).
Grrrr, the clip that holds the lamp in is fouling the outer case - can unclip it - but not lift up...
Grrrrrrr, take out the little screw - drop it on the ground - ten minutes to find it Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr......
Bulb in - clip back - panel back on.
Very happy with the bright white light these little suckers give out.
Now to see if the headlight is waterproof. Wont be long as it hasn't stopped raining.

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It seems that you have not spent much time in the kitchen adding vinegar to the salad, because the smell of acetic acid from silicone overwhelm you.

These bulbs will become xenons about the same time when I become slim and blond, namely - never. :lol8:

I thought they were actually brighter than normal, but my experience has shown that they not and their bluish light tiring eyes. Instead, I would look for an ordinary, but good quality halogen light bulb, from Philips, Osram, Beru or Narva.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

It seems that you have not spent much time in the kitchen adding vinegar to the salad, because the smell of acetic acid from silicone overwhelm you.

These bulbs will become xenons about the same time when I become slim and blond, namely - never. :lol8:

I thought they were actually brighter than normal, but my experience has shown that they not and their bluish light tiring eyes. Instead, I would look for an ordinary, but good quality halogen light bulb, from Philips, Osram, Beru or Narva.

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eek! So I take it these aren't xenons :confused1:
I did try them out for a night ride and they were a great improvement on the original halogens. They actually produced a bright white light instead of the yellowish before, and lit up the road brilliantly. I didn't notice any blue tint to the beams, I'll follow a friend and see if the light appears bluish to him.
How long they will last? Hmmmmm. Report to follow...

If they do their job better than the old ones - xenon or not. you achieve your goal, which is most important. Is'n it?

Yes, the bulbs are not HID Xenons at all. To do that you will need a completely different designed light bulb and also need to have either one or two ballasts and a whole lot of associated wiring. I can tell you though that HIDS on the Jetmax work very very well. One of the issues with the standard Halogen bulb on the Jetmax is a 35/35W which is much less than the common 55/60W used in most vehicles. You will likely notice a reasonable increase in light just from swapping out the low rated 35/35W bulbs. And I see that the little retaining clip that I commented about in my Jetmax review has not been redesigned.
Just keep in mind that you might have to be mindful of the wiring used for the headlights etc and whether or not they are designed to take the increased draw that the higher rated bulbs will incur. I found that out by swapping the stock standard 35/35W Halogens for some beefier 90/100W ones. The draw was too much and the wiring proceeded to melt as did the plastic 3 pronged connectors to the bulbs. Replacing the wiring harness means having to buy the headlight assembly which in turn means buying the fairing (tupperware) that houses said headlight too. No matter as it's not expensive here in China. The headlight wiring harness is not sold separately.

Not sure why you are having issues with your lights filling with water. None of that has happened with any Jetmax's elsewhere that I'm aware of.

BTW, your goods will likely be with you soon Mr WirralGhostHunter :)