Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
Not looking forward to it happening to mine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
Not looking forward to it happening to mine.
Happy Easter guys & gals!
Babyswiss thank you for the input. That is how i plan to repair the shift rod.
Hey Gun Rod,
I really like those brown saddle bags that you got on pg 139. Do you have a link for them?
thanks
Repainted tank, fenders, and touched up the frame... new plug, oil, and a fuel filter. It seems to run worse than before. I thought maybe it was the plug so I closed the gap from 30 to 25. Seems to be back firing through the carb a lot now and stalling out. It seems to improve as it warms up.. maybe its the fuel filter.. but I dont think so. It did not do this before I removed the tank and changed the plug and fuel filter.
Anyway its running well other than that. Noticed I had a front blinker out.. might be the wires since I had to disconnect the brake light when I painted.
Btw I used 2 cans of Rusto satin black and really really layed it on thick... then i used my experiences with painting and hit it with spray wax and 2000 grit wetsand.. and it looks better than it did from the factory. I spilled gas all over the tank again right after I had finished.. but there was no negative effects since my paint job is 100% better than stock.. even though I rattle canned it.
Btw the rustoleum satin black is an exact match to the frame paint if you are looking to cover up some untreated areas or fix any blemishes. I went over the VIN tag with it to stop the rust.
Still no MSO yet. Will keep you updated.
cool, do you have any new pics?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
Quote:
Originally Posted by freezerboy
Yea, i wanna see too.
:clap::taz::clap:
Bobthebobber: Congrats on the new paint job Bob, that’s the beauty of the flat paint I guess. Post a pict.
Freezerboy: bummer on the shift rod but better to get that fix out of the way now as it will make your bike more dependable for sure. If mine breaks I will machine a heavy duty one out of good quality solid stainless rod hard to believe the skimped on such a simple part.
Skullworkz: I worry on what happening with your hard shifting is a symptom of your motor running a little too hot. As you say it shifts great when not fully warm. When your engine is hot a number of things occur that could cause the problem.
Your engine oil is thinning too much and parts in the transmission are expanding a bit too much also.
-You maybe still running a bit lean causing temps to get a little too high. Check your plug.
- Also your engine is new and tight thus more friction.
- I would drive it a little bit more gentle possibly until broken in more.
you may want to change your oils ASAP and check for abnormal high amount of silver swarf in the oil just to be sure and safe.
Your pipe wrap may be adding to the higher temps also! This wrap can insulate it so your are just a bit over temp.
-I would also change wet clutch oil brands?
-You may even want to try a 20w 50w Mobil one synthetic 20-50 , after 500 miles get on your bike ( can be hard to find)
-This is a similar engine to the Honda rebel and those can on occasion shift a bit hard when they get hot. Anyhow it should get better as it breaks in. Hope this helps a little bit.
Too hot is not good and this shifting problem is likely telling you something if all other adjustments are good and your clutch is fully disengaging.
I am going to add a 1972 rebel heat sink to my exhaust to help keep the temp down a degree or two.
These little bikes can be tempting ( even by me) to over rev and drive aggressive especially due to the aggressive sound ...but they really are a small little engines and need to be treated gentle at least for the first 1000 miles as such. Hope all are enjoying the little warm up were having.
:seesaw_smilie:
Just to say. Spring is here.
http://s1074.photobucket.com/albums/...nt=ridewmv.mp4
I bought my boots about 35 years ago. Give or take. I am doing about 70 mph and holding back. The guy filming is riding a GoldWing. Said he had trouble keeping up with me off the get go. Liar! Liar !
I don't care. Gas at their price
I'm just waiting for one of you to say I missspelled sonething.
This bike rocks
Hey Ghost, got some fresh pics of that bike?Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
Thanks for the insight Goodbar, Once I stopped trying to shift into neutral at a stop and shifted there on the way into the light, I haven't had an issue. But, on occassion I find neutral on the way back up from first on accident. I just rolled over to 300 miles and am kinda curious what the oil looks like. I will not be switching to syn as I have read in this forum that it has not made a noticeable improvement for the cost. Also, kinda curious to see whats stuck to that magnetic oil plug. I am using Valvoline brand, what brands are you guys using with success? Not sure if I will switch brands unless one of you has had better luck with a different brand. When I do the oil I am also going to check the valve clearance and see if it has changed any. Also, Goodbar, as far as it shifting better when its cold than when its warm. For some reason it will shift into neutral when its at a stop when its cold but as the engine warms up it will not allow me to do so. But, the trans was not meant to shift from first to neutral at a dead stop. So, it may be just as you said with the metal expanding when it gets warm and not allowing for the bit of clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodbar
:eek2:
Chruk: Yes to any one new to bikes or this forum, oil must be wet clutch type motorcycle specific.
My brother was over yesterday (a major Harley guy who is a Coat of Arms in a Motorcycle chapter) A real 1 percenter guy for sure and I had no prediction on his reaction. Anyhow he saw the Fanger for the first time and man did his eyes light up when he saw the bobber. He even took a photo of it with his cell phone, raved about its looks and just thought it was a cool custom bobber and offered to buy it if I ever get rid of it. hmmmmmm. There ya all go, another priceless Bobber experience.
Ride safe:eekers:
ghost1133
Where did you get your saddle bags?
votage regulator and turn signal relay from http://www.scooterparts4less.com/
Found replacement rear sprocket studs.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/at...6&d=1341715023
Honda Part number 90128-382-670 made in Japan.
Source - Ebay
bent your shift rod ? http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...Shift-Rod.html
horn bracket as well as a reflector bracket broke for seemingly no reason (rewelded reflector , replaced horn with 1 from Oreilies autoparts (car horn))
sprocket - http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Motorcycl...?search=JTR279 - 520 chain - most seem to go for 36 tooth 38 if your heavy or riding in really hilly conditions , myself (175 lbs) I use a 428 chain 17/36 (17 front wont fit with 520 chain) (15/30 16/33 520 equivalant) (80+ mph indicated perfect conditions) but you MUST HAVE jetting and air ram and keep valve adjustments very close and keep flapping clothing (drag) to a minimum or you will never see the top of 5th
- and remember max horsepower (between 10-15) is produced @ 2/3rds max RPM's unlike overhead cam motors and then it drops off SHARPLY , gear accordingly , you need not reach max rpm's in 5th if you can hold your desired cruise speed at 1/2-2/3 rpm's , which also increases fuel economy and manages heat better
air injector delete
dimming headlight problem, really easy to unplug the blue and white wire from the dark green wire and plug it into the other blue and white wire like it should have been been in the first place. now my light switch works and my lights don't dim
upjet http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post41593
magnetic drain plug - http://www.oldbikebarn.com/BikeMaste...AG-12MM-ALU-BM
LED tail light ( buy and install new socket/bulb )
I went to auto parts store and bought a radiator hose (used the air filter for sizing) with a 180 degree bend in it cut it to only have the U shape bolted it to the carb the other end to the air filter , now I have a forward facing air intake out in the air stream - aka poormans air ram ( no real effect untill past 50 indicated )
new battery (have to chop into steel battery box to get new 1 to fit) from autozone
HAVE A HUGE PROBLEM!!!!!!
Filled up the tank and started. Holy s--t full RPM, couldn't get to the kill switch fast enough.
pulled the needle seat didnt ya :P
wide open throttle is caused by re-inserting the carb tube (with needle in it) so dont seat fully . I did that myself
look at it the cutout has to be facing the rear wheel , and it will let it seat deeper , stopping that WOT on start
valve adjust - https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...wZDM3&hl=en_US = compression stroke = both valves fully raised
chain roller - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-CHAIN-RO...009836&vxp=mtr
55/65 watt sealed beam headlight that fits - its a , Sylvania H5006 , and the Wiring harness to go with it , fit inside the existing headlamp shell
all right I believe thats everything fairly relivant to the DF's for the most part (just thought I would mash all upgrade repairs together into 1 compact area) - most are from what others have found im just jamming em into 1 post
I have the correct oil installed, just curious what everyone else is using with success.Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
Shift linkage fixed already ^_^ !
I cut it off at the break point, drilled out the rod and then tapped it. I used the red strong locktite on the insert threads when i put it together. From the side its hard to tell but you can see the allen head on the insert. i don't know if putting nuts on the thread would beef it up more or not. Anyway i feel like the insert is better steel than what it had before so im happy.:thumbsup:
Here's a link,Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob form NV
http://www.devillecycles.com/online_store.htm
Thats some fancy work there!!!:eekers: I will have to steal that idea if the problem arises. There are some local guys making some really cool custom CNC shift rods for around $100 to $200, I think is what I read here lately on a CL motorcycle post. They do not have a website that I can find, but I did find their Facebook page. If your looking for that SUPER BADASS SHIFTROD GET IT FROM THESES GUYS!! In no way do I know them or have done business with them, but have seen some badaaassss things come outta their shop! I WILL be ordering a shiftrod from them, and I WILL NOT be telling them what kind of bike I will be installing it on. I will just give them the dimentions I want and have 'em make it. Look up some of their stuff, I promise you will not be disappointed. https://www.facebook.com/pages/D-B-Cycles/443820970650Quote:
Originally Posted by freezerboy
Be sure to post some pics for us when you get it, and also make note that each end on your current rod is threaded opposite of each other.Quote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
10w40 car motor oil , same thing Ive used in all of my motorcyclesQuote:
Originally Posted by skullworkz
Thanks for the link ghost.
Nice work on the rod freezerboy.
:deal:
:lol8:
I see you still have the smog junk hooked upQuote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
guys it seems now my tail light is not working either along with my front left blinker. I took the wires off when I painted the fender but maybe I didnt hook it up correctly. Coming from the tail light there was a green wire with a yellow stripe, a green wire, and a brown wire. The hook up points in the box are a green wire with a yellow stripe, 2 green wires, and 2 black. I plugged in the green wire with the yellow stripe to the matching one in the box, and plugged the green wire into a matching green. That leaves the brown wire from the tail light to connect to either a green connection or one of the two black connections. I have tried all 3 with no changes. The brake light in the tail works, but not the running light. All the other blinkers work, just not the front left. Maybe the bulb is out on the front blinker.. but where does this brown wire go and why cant i get the running tail light to work. Anyone have a pic of a 2012 model inside the "oil tank" box so I can see where everything goes? Or if not could someone snap a pic for me? thanks. This needs to be working to register the bike
what gearing are you runningQuote:
Originally Posted by ghost1133
REALLY!!?? I dont believe itQuote:
Originally Posted by DanDaMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by chruk bashre
Nice stand.
This is the new battery that i just ordered for $64.40 on amazon. It's about $7 higher on ebay.
http://www.motobattasia.com/batteries.php?pid=39
It measures 1mm smaller then our original battery on length and width and 2mm smaller in height. I may need to shim it a tiny bit. It is 11Ah; 140 CCA and the original T.E.T. battery is 9Ah , unknown cca. So i'll let you all know how it works out after it gets here.
BTW, the original dongfang battery that i got is fine and going into my China 250cc CFMoto scooter because its battery is dead.