Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

im looking for a replacement gas cap that will fit the tank properly. Does anyone know of one that will fit other then the stock one? Mine seeps gas out all down the tank when its over half full...

I read a post here awhile back that said if you take one of those cheap womens hair bands, the kind with the cloth that covers the elastic and fit that over the gas cap onto the fill port neck it makes the gas evaporate before it runs down your tank. I had the same problem and got one my girl friend had laying around, so far it's worked for me.

Thanks for your reply Bob. I actually noticed your post about the wick right before you answered. I am still interested in finding a different cap. a chrome one one with an old school look and no locking feature.

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Originally Posted by DanDaMan

direct fit

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thanks, i put my order in. danisdaman

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Originally Posted by Goodbar

Pull the plug and clean or replace and check for color
and or pull carb and run a jet cleaning wire thru both jets. sounds like a tiny piece of something is clogging a jet orifice. The high RPM maybe knocked a particle loose.

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I changed the plug and its running like a dream again.

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Originally Posted by Mixmaster

I changed the plug and its running like a dream again.

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Mixmaster: Glad it was that simple best first option/ did you put a NGK in ? Was your old one fouled and black?

Freezerboy: I am not sure if anyone figured out a replacement for the gas tank cap, but no doubt there is one somewhere on ebay. Try the hair band its almost a free mod, most say it worked. You could also probably add a large neoprene o ring on top of the raised metal or behind the seal on the cap to put more pressure on the seal.
Its finally going into the 70s this weekend and we just came off another blizzard of 10 inches...go figure.
A winter marathon here in Minnesota for sure

:scooter:

:thumbsup:

Way to go Chruk Looks like a perfect job. It shows what can be done for just lots of labor.:thumbsup:

Got my new tail light from scooter depot today. The wires were about 8 inches too short to reach the oil box.. Called them.. they said they will send another one.. im starting to get pissed off. To fix the wheel hitting the fender.. they told me to weld a new bracket for the tail light somewhere else.. umm im not welding anything on a bike with 10 miles on it.. not to mention all the clips that hold the wire to the bottom of the fender broke off.. they should send me a new fender, lamp, and brackets

chrunk paint mine next ? :p

wer in US are u bob i wanna see this 1st hand see if your missing something

They probably spot weld those clips when they manufacture the fender, so yeah I'd tell them I want a new fender too. The fender supports are all bolted. I would imagine you can loosen all the bolts and position the fender so that you have the proper clearance and then tighten things back down. Something that should have been done when they built it.

hello everyone im new with the boards.
i just purchased df250 ,2010 i have some questions for you guys
wahts the chain size and what would it mean if my rear sproket is lose but the bolts are tight . if you move sproket left to right or vv. it moves ?
i live in chicago

chain is a 720

and i wonder if your retainer c clip came off the sprocket , that would allow it to wobble , believe me u need it on there

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Originally Posted by JD630

hello everyone im new with the boards.
i just purchased df250 ,2010 i have some questions for you guys
wahts the chain size and what would it mean if my rear sproket is lose but the bolts are tight . if you move sproket left to right or vv. it moves ?
i live in chicago

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did you buy the cycle used? is the sprocket original? great big black one.
dan- did you mean 520?

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

did you buy the cycle used? is the sprocket original? great big black one.
dan- did you mean 520?

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Yes I bought the cycle used it has 1200 miles
Df250cc chain size is it 420 or 520 ?

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Originally Posted by JD630

Yes I bought the cycle used it has 1200 miles
Df250cc chain size is it 420 or 520 ?

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Sprocket is not original it's smaller. But I do have an original one.

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Originally Posted by JD630

Sprocket is not original it's smaller. But I do have an original one.

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Where can I order a new rear hub ?

And sprocket with new bolts ?

Hopefully no one needs a new hub,JD630. the new sprockets are not as thick as original.these photos kind of show that.
Attachment 11312
Attachment 11313

i had to make a shim so that mine would not wiggle around. you may only need to shim up what you have. new sprocket and bolts would be better first.
Attachment 11314
Attachment 11315
Attachment 11316

i was told NOT to do this.... i have to start over to get more pics. be rite bak

i was told NOT to do this
Attachment 11317

here is what you should have to put on a new sprocket. the 2 top rings are original parts, the bottom is a shim i made. whatever you buy determines the thickness of the shim you need. i bought a shim washer, made the middle bigger and slotted the outside for the nuts with a dremel.

Attachment 11318
Attachment 11319
Attachment 11320

when you take off the wheel, you only need to lift the entire sprocket configuration out of the hub. you do not have to loosen the nuts first to
take it off. the whole thing will slide right out. so never mind the new
hub first. park it first and rip it down. if you can get a spacer in there,
that may be all you need. but do it now.! good luck. dont give up.
just do what the other guy who sold it to you didnt do.
congrats on df250rtb ownership. the bike is the balls.

:confused1:

:deal:
Attachment 11321

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

i was told NOT to do this
Attachment 11317

here is what you should have to put on a new sprocket. the 2 top rings are original parts, the bottom is a shim i made. whatever you buy determines the thickness of the shim you need. i bought a shim washer, made the middle bigger and slotted the outside for the nuts with a dremel.

Attachment 11318
Attachment 11319
Attachment 11320

when you take off the wheel, you only need to lift the entire sprocket configuration out of the hub. you do not have to loosen the nuts first to
take it off. the whole thing will slide right out. so never mind the new
hub first. park it first and rip it down. if you can get a spacer in there,
that may be all you need. but do it now.! good luck. dont give up.
just do what the other guy who sold it to you didnt do.
congrats on df250rtb ownership. the bike is the balls.

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Thanks for all the support! Much appreciated ! I hope this fixes the problem.
Ill do everything I can to get this fixed. Ill be replacing the sprocket with stock one n do exactly what u said to do

original sprocket will let you go about 50mph. that is why everyone is changing them.
'old bike barn dot com' has a sprocket for cheap. the
tooth count is a personal decision. i went with a 38t. yours will have a number
stamped on it if you like how it goes use the same.
then go to your local honda dealer and get the bolts. here are some #s.
i got these from dandaman. very happy with the parts he recommended.

sprocket= JTR27938t. for a 38tooth. the last #s are the tooth count. (36t,or??)
bolts= 90128-382-670

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Originally Posted by Bobthebobber

pictures as requested. It's not 100% perfect.. but remember this was done with a rattle can and not my HVLP. I used 2 cans of rustoleum Satin black between the tank and fenders. I could have used less than half of one can.. but I wanted it layed on thick. After the paint was dry.. i used 2000 grit sand paper with spray wax as the lube. Then I used some rubbing compound, followed by a quick finish of spray wax again.

It's more of a matte/satin than a flat which I like. It's a a bit deeper than the stock color and much more resilient. A little spotty in a few places but I cleaned it up nice. Also this paint is an exact match for the stock frame color if you need to do touch ups.




btw idk about yours.. but the bottom of my tank was nasty RUST orange primer. I didnt bother painting this area, as I will re do the paint correctly with my HVLP gun at some point, but it looks fine for now

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscc75cb18.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf9718c60.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8efd7453.jpg

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hey man where did you find that seat ? its nice. im looking for a new one myself

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Originally Posted by skullworkz

Rode my bike to work today in 40 deg weather 12.5 miles each way. I cant get this thing to shift properly, it locks you out of ALL gears while in first at a stop. So, if I come to a stop at a red light and down shift with the clutch held in as I approach the light, once in first and at a complete stop you cant shift anywhere! Anyone have any luck or instructions for syncing the trans? How would I check if the shift linkage is properly adjusted? I need some help here guys, as I am a b-i-c-y-c-l-e mechanic. Any PDF's or web sites would be helpful:icon10: OH, and here are some freshies of my mistress!!Attachment 10776Attachment 10777Attachment 10778
CANT WAIT TO GET MY NEW HEADLIGH INSTALLED!!!

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hey man my question is where did you find that seat ???

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Originally Posted by Bob form NV

God Goodbar, started the bike up today, 70f here today, put it in full choke cranked. fired and idled like a baby to open. Course I had to take it for a spin just to take advantage of those cylinder break in strokes. Got the new carb filter and I know you think a little thing like that won't make a difference but being the optomist that I am the thing made a great difference. Just looking inside it you know you got a big lean down. More power, less pop and more thump, just great. Was kind of bummed as it didn't clamp down good at first and was interfearing with the throtttle assembly. I took it over to my CNC bench grinder and ground down the connecting flange and put a little negative rake into it ,works great now. Drove by a guy on a Harley, I thought he was going to get a broken neck. So little flash , so much class. As promised:Attachment 10443Attachment 10444Attachment 10445Attachment 10446Attachment 10447 The last pic is my cnc grinder after the flange mod.

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what are the dimenstions for df250rtb air fliter ???

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Originally Posted by chruk bashre

original sprocket will let you go about 50mph. that is why everyone is changing them.
'old bike barn dot com' has a sprocket for cheap. the
tooth count is a personal decision. i went with a 38t. yours will have a number
stamped on it if you like how it goes use the same.
then go to your local honda dealer and get the bolts. here are some #s.
i got these from dandaman. very happy with the parts he recommended.

sprocket= JTR27938t. for a 38tooth. the last #s are the tooth count. (36t,or??)
bolts= 90128-382-670

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i think i got 32 or 35t but im debating on replacoing w/38t
should i ?
i weight 175 ?

JD630, regarding the seat in bobthebobbers picture, that is the standard seat on the 2012 edition of the DF250rtb. You can get one at the scooter depot but it attach's differently so your in for some modifications if you do that seat. Here is a link for the filter.

http://www.roguemotorsportz.com/i601...Fag7MgodpAoAPA

I bought the 74x50x70x42mm

:riding:.:scooter:
bike brag time.
250yama enduro
350hond scambler
450hond rebel yes,450cc
600suk intruder
650hond nighthawk
V45hond magna
1000harl sportster '72' stroked 30over
1000harl sportster '78' 75th ann.
1600yam roadstar
250yam morphous
Last(so far) but not Least
Dong Fang 250 Retro Trim Bobber Dec.2010 model
yeah, i know, whtevr:rolleyes1:

:thumbsup: