In another note... Is there a way to disconnect the air injection without making a plate for the motor? Maybe just pulling off a hose and plugging the hose attached the motor, and plugging the other hose attached to the pump?
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In another note... Is there a way to disconnect the air injection without making a plate for the motor? Maybe just pulling off a hose and plugging the hose attached the motor, and plugging the other hose attached to the pump?
So just straighten these arch support rods a bit? I'll write that down on my to do list. Thanks for the heads up.
Attachment 12319
I'm going to make the plate and remove all the plumbing like I did on my old DF.
Attachment 12320
Use the removed piece as a pattern to make the plate out of 1/8" or so aluminum plate. Paint it black. Put a cap on the vacuum port. Easy peasy.
On my old DF then I moved the ignition key switch to the place were the pump was. Kinda cleaned it up a bit. I don't know if this will work on the new model.
Attachment 12321
I have the 2012 and from looking at it I would think you could loosen the four strut bolts attaching the fender, lift it at the back by hand to get the clearance you want and tighten it back down.
well I'd check everything if I i were you, i did.
but the only 2 issues I had was my secondary air pump was not functioning correctly, blowing it's hoses. a non issue as the entire system is gone.
the only pressing issue I had was absolutely no clearance on the valves, there was even tension on mine.
I find everyone who checks their valves reporting they are at least tight.
After reading Bobthebobbers problem I checked the clearance on the tail on mine and there was a half inch. Barnone, I hope they send a different manual than they sent with my bike as it is almost useless. I hope you kept the manual from your 2010. I'd like to get a copy of that.
imo u need to plate the air injection if removed , if the air pumps not forcing air into the opening , the motor will force exhaust out the air injection inlet super heating the hose or rubber plug , and remember if u raise the fender , the bottom of the fender (below the seat) will inch towards the tire as well
That sounds like the problem axa was having with his pump. I'm thinking when Bobthebobber painted his fender he my have inadvertently moved things around and lost the clearance under the rear of the fender. Probably have to loosen the one lower fender bolt too so you can adjust the fender for clearance and then tighten down all five bolts.
My DF arrived today and I met the delivery truck in town and transferred it to my truck. No way could he have gotten up my steep driveway. Very little clearance between the rear wheel and the tail light wiring so that is the first thing to fix.
She looks good.
Attachment 12342
Shop is getting a little crowed.:lol8:
Attachment 12343
Looks like I can increase the clearance between the tire and tail light wiring by putting a spacer here. That will move the bottom of the rear fender aft and therefore raise the rear of the fender. I already put in a small spacer but need to get a longer bolt tomorrow for a longer spacer.
This thread is kinda all over the place as long as it has to do with one the 250 OHV Bobbers whether a CCW Heist or a DF 250 China girl. That being said, What positive effect does taking this EGR tube or what ever is out and covering the hole with a plate ? Is it just to simplify the engine bay and clean up the looks ?
Wow barnone it looks like the fender was pushed down forcefully. Here's what mine looked like. There is a good half inch between the tire and the tail light wires. ATTACH=CONFIG]12344[/ATTACH]Attachment 12345
4950, When I removed the pump it stopped a lot of the back fire and gave it a lower growl compared to what it had with it which I liked. You need to put a cap on the carb where the vaccume hose atached also.
Bob form NV,
Also I am trying to get the rear fender more equal around the rear tire. I would like about an inch clearance in the rear.
I think you should try loosening up the four strut bolts and just lift it to where you want it. I'm happy with mine so I'm not messing with it. I can't imagine that the parts aren't pretty much built to the same tolrerances so they should be adjustable. Good luck
Barnone, I really like the looks of the new model bobber like yours. I'm an opinionated old geezer, but after almost 52 years of riding motorcycles, that's just the way I am. To me the peanut tank and the new bars just improve this bike a bunch. Sorry to anyone, but that old tank and bars just look out of place, awkward, like when a Chinese maker calls their motorcycle the "Cool Boy", or something. Barnone, this is your second, maybe you better keep this one? Did you take a loss when you sold your first one?
Or you can do this...
Attachment 12347
My fender on this new model was actually assembled perfectly, but I thought chopping up the bike a bit would be cool.
More to come.
Struts for sale...
Talked to my DMV and they said that had a manufacturer code in their system for Dong Fang so they've registered Dong Fangs here in this state so I felt re-assured that if I bought this bike I'll be ok getting everything legalized. All I gots to do now is get my motorcycle license haha.