Yup, had to remove the stripe on the gas tank. It started peeling so I just remove the whole stripe.
No, I didn't repaint the gas tank. Maybe during the winter months.
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Yup, had to remove the stripe on the gas tank. It started peeling so I just remove the whole stripe.
No, I didn't repaint the gas tank. Maybe during the winter months.
The muffler wrap was a must for me, it burn a few of my pants already.
Looks like you have the black gloss with the clear coat over the stripes, right? I wanna go all flat lack including the shiny stuff on the engine but will wait until I am in FL for the winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi town
Sorry, forgot to mention that my DF is gloss black. I wouldn't mind having the flat black, but I didn't have that option when ordering.
I'm thinking having the frame painted as well, just having decided what color yet. Been busy tuning the carb and all other small mods.
I'm also planning on getting a 10-12" ape bar.
After passing my motorcycle license test, I might add a home-made jockey shifter with the clutch on it.
When i first got my bike, i fabbed a very simple shift mechanism for behind the seat on the left. Having been new to this bike, new to a springer front end, and new to ape hangers, that all made it a very scary driving experience indeed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi town
Pulling my hand so far away from the handle bars with the ape hanger and a springers which already felt like they wanted to jump out of my hands, was at times down right dangerous.
The very low stock gearing didn't help either as it required things like shifts in the middle of an intersection and what not...
For my suburban driving, that was clearly a bust, but I'm now working on a design to add a jockey shift to the right side very close to the handle bar.
This way, my hand is never too far from the grip at any given time.
This will also will leave the clutch on the left handle which i believe very important to safe secure stopping.
I would think you as I, aren't riding a bike for the safety aspects, im sure your forks are much smoother, and your handles are much closer, but its something to consider if you are doing city driving with such a setup. I assuming your in Chicago.
If you and I lived out in the sticks, maybe it would be a moot point.
I thought about this when painting my fender and tank, when i saw the high temp flat black paints for BBQs.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
But how would you prep the engine?
It either needs to come out for a good cleaning or a sandblast.
I don't see how leaving it in place I'd be able to get the proper angles and coat on all those fins.
Id really like to do it but worry the time to do this properly is more than id like to invest.
Hope you can pull it off and educate me.
axa,Quote:
Originally Posted by axa
Not the whole engine, just the valve cover and the other little shiny covers.
My goal is to look old bike as much as possible.
How to prep these surfaces? Wire brush, Scotch pads, steel wool, fine sand paper, primer?
Ideas and advice from our painter members would be appreciated.
I see, you want to black out the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Yes, those parts can readily be removed.
Though I would recommend a sandblasting.
I needed to refinish the the engine side clutch bracket after it needed a bending correction, (it was digging into the cable on each clutch pull)
Bending cracked off the rather thin, inferior chrome job, but it was still a real bitch to sand the part clean becuase of its unevenness, i don't, yet, have a sand blaster.
That said, I believe the Heist comes with these parts blacked out, how about inquiring about replacements from them. Unless you have access to a blaster, the cost may be worth it.
Ive heard muriatic acid might take it off though. Never tried.
Axa,
I'm planning on adding the shifter on the left side of the tank. I think having on the right side would be more dangerous as the front brake are at the right side of the handlebar. Unless you planning on taking the front brake out of your system or moving it to the left side.
What I have in mind for my shifter is just basic. Since it seem we could adjust the current clutch pedal, I was planning to adjust the pedal at maybe 90 degrees and use the three holes to lock down the pipe. I have to get the ape bars first so the handlebar won't hit into the shifter if I ever plan on turning left all the way. This all still a thought in process. School started for me today and it looks like I won't be able to mess around with my bike as much as I like too.
Last night I had my pilot jet change to 45 and today I found that, that was making my engine run really rich. It was so rich that fire came out of the muffler. Pull over right away and lean as much as I could. I'm hoping I didn't do any damage on my DF. Now I just change the 45 pilot to a 42. Hope I don't see fire again tomorrow..... But it was nice for once seeing that my DF had some power today. Acceleration felt much faster that's for sure
Come on bro, if its really that rich you've got a prime opportunity to try that way lean scoop with such a rich mix!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi town
Then let us know...
Its your rear, but short term testing like this really shouldn't do any damage.
Nah, you spend a far majority of the time in gear cruising, not shifting.
On the right i can pull both the brake and clutch quickly and adjust to the situation. This happens alot. With it on the left, you can brake quickly but then pulling a hand off to grab the clutch when you might already be off balance... i found id just end up stalling...
I cant say sure which is better, but i think id feel better with it on the right, we'll see.
O.k. guys, I need a little terminology lesson today.
what is the proper term for these?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...psa187e354.jpg
to be more precise, the black bushing looking things that the studs which hold the sprocket into place. I have noticed I need to replace my sprocket yet again as it is not seating the chain correctly, and I want to replace the studs as well. trouble is the home mode studs I created I had to drill the centers of these "bushings" out to get them to fit. Now I know that the new replacements studs will be smaller, and I would like to replace these "bushings". I also noticed they are a bit cracked and dry rotted so to speak. I have no idea the proper name for them to hunt them down.
Also I know there was a post a while back with the correct studs info, I cannot seem to find it. I believe they are Honda studs, which worked.
Thirdly, and I know I am asking a lot, but I do not like the sprocket problem. I need to purchase a new one, but I am not going with the same place I went with before, old bike barn. I do not know why the chain would not seat correctly, but I do not want to take a chance on the same problem happening again, so a lead on an alternate place of purchase would be cool.
Bike is up to 9975 miles at this time, but sitting in the garage without a sprocket has me buggin a little. I want to hit that 10,000 mile mark as soon as possible. Thanks.
id call them cush drive bushings. google it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtiewagon
the problem is not with the sprocket at all, the JTR279.xx sprockets are made as they are meant to be. the problem is with our bikes using a rear axle spacing that fit the original sprocket.
If you carefully measure you will realize that the original sprocket would sit very close to .055 mil further from wheel center. Therefore when replacing with this JTR part, you need to compensate for that with a shim placed in between the sprocket and the hub.
Now most people don't even compensate for this so perhaps your problem is a combination of things or something else entirely.
I have no idea why people shop at oldbike barn, your paying near double for the same product. Here the JTR279.30 tooth im considering, $17.51 shipped from amazon.
As for your 10k mark problem, i have a solution for that too. Jack up your bike and spin the front wheel... i calculate a billion and one turn and you ready to hit that mark.
Bowtiewagon: Congrats on the mileage, but looking at those spokes they look closer to 100,000 miles!!! Is that just road grime or are they rusting that bad? Makes me glad mine has never seen any moisture!
bowtiewagon,
The problem might be a worn out chain and not the sprocket. Would you post a photo of your sprocket and chain?
The original chain is not the best quality and if it not taken off, cleaned and soaked in oil frequently it will wear quickly. A high quality o-ring chain will last longer.
BTW, the JT sprockets are good quality.
Attachment 13182
Hey Barone,
How many turns are you at with the air/fuel screw with the 42 pilot jet?
IMO - change front AND rear sprocket AND chain , to the 428 HD chain , its a lighter chain thus adding a tiny bit more zip and we all know these need all the zip they can get
plus it allows a bigger front sprocket , up to a 17
10k miles I think they have served u well im only at about 6k
Don't know, I use a Harmonizer to set the mixture screw. The idea is to set the screw at max idle RPM and "Hg with the instrument.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi town
Attachment 13185
I'll have to turn it in and count the turns. Maybe 2 turns out?
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ght=Harmonizer
Gotta go to the saw mill and help saw some Black Locust logs for new timbers for my bridge this morning so it will be later to get back to you.
Attachment 13186
Some of the decking is rotten which is not good.
A little of both as for the looks of the wheel.It is a daily rider, rain or shine. Not a show bike. It gets me around, and it looks cool doing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Babyswiss
I think I found the part number for the Cush drive bushings,
41241-307-010. Not 100% yet, have to measure the ones on the bike first. But they match with the part number for the studs that Barnone gave me 90128-382-670.
They do help clarify things a bit. Humans are so subjective, at least this will give you some factual based feedback when you are dealing with and talking about your engine speed...Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi town
I had a guy stop me at a gas station today to talk about the bike... He spent about 45 minutes going over it.. looking at it and asking questions.. he asked if it was for sale.. I said sure 5 grand... he said wow thats it! I gave him my number and address... he said he would pick it up tonight.. the guy shows up with 5 grand in hand...
I just couldnt do it... maybe it's because im honest... maybe it's because have a weird connection with the bike... but i finally ended up telling him it was a Chinese bike and where to get it for about 1800. Am I stupid? Probably.. but i just could not steal that guys cash
I applaud you for being a stand up guy.Pass the forum info along to him.He will need it or his mechanic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
Ive read stories like this before, 'somebody told me they would pay xxxx for the DF', and the first thing i think of is why they didn't realize they are getting pricing offers from someone who isn't even really looking to buy a bike, and possibly knows nothing about bikes... But this is the first time I've read that someone actually went through on the offer...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
But are you telling us, if you had any good reason to sell, needed the money, tired of the bike, a newer model had just come out and you wanted it, you wouldn't have taken this guys money? I wouldn't hold anything against you if you did, its not like you were going out looking for a sucker.
Were you promising him something it wasn't? American made? Said you made it yourself?
Cuz if its dishonest to turn a profit then im confused about capitalism and about what i do everyday.
If that was the case, then tell me how with a clear conscience CCW can sell the hiest for 150% the cost of the DF.
But I think your confusing value with cost.
The value of anything is defined as the amount an entity is willing to compensate for it, not the price a separate entity is willing to sell the same product for.
Look up the qualitative value of a product.
Value = Benefits / Cost
On the qualitative side, value is the perceived gain composed of individual's emotional, mental and physical condition plus various social, economic, cultural and environmental factors.
This guy obviously felt he was getting something he wanted (benefit) that outweighed the cost to him (5k)
Now if you just felt bad for the guy, fair enough, but then you are contributing to the emotional factor stated above.
I know i for one don't really need the money, but im pretty sure I would have parted with my bike for about 5 or 6 grand. And then turned around and purchased 2 more, as i plan on getting my girlfriend one next spring anyway.
But i think i also know something else, im not quite as in love with my bike as others may be.
I am though quite pleased when people really appreciates the things they have.
Borrowed the top box off my Ural to try on the DF. Not crazy about the look but I need some carrying capacity.
Attachment 13217 Attachment 13218
Might try some 50 caliber ammo cans for panniers next.
Attachment 13219
If you do, with your 30 tooth, how do reckon drive-ability will be affected when all three are loaded?Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Or are we as i suspect mostly top end/rpm limited.
Normally there will be little weight in the boxes, some tools, Fixaflat , rain gear,etc.
Probably will have either the top box or the ammo cans but not both. Added weight should effect acceleration and not top speed.
I like the 30 tooth because I can stay in a gear longer when I am riding here in the mountains with a lot of curves and altitude changes.
Attachment 13220
I still have my trailer shown here hauling garbage to the dump behind my long gone 2010.
Attachment 13221
Empty after a dump run behind my 2012.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Until you find a hill :p
find a hill? he's in the middle of the Smokey mountains.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
Things about that i envy.
Then again barone, does the name Peter Jenkins mean anything to you these days?
It is called down shifting.:lol8:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobthebobber
Nope, who is he?Quote:
Originally Posted by axa