Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

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Originally Posted by Woody87

Barnone,

It still coughs while warm, mostly at speeds below 20mph, in first/second gear. No washer under the needle, and the jet size should be accurate, I read it off of the jets, and the bike came to me from the drop shipper in the steel crate so noone has had it prior to me.
Oh, I am confused, I thought you had a 2010 but sound like you have a 2012. Be nice if you put you DF model and year in your signature line..

If I get another carb I may just use a Walbro. Question is, doI need to swap over the accel pump, or run without it

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Oh, I am confused,senior moment,I thought you had a 2010 but you have a unmolested 2012. Be nice if you put you DF model and year in your signature line.

Now I don't know what to tell you.

I would still be tempted to order and install the Ebay PZ30 carb just to see if it fixed the low speed sputtering.

My 2012 DF never had a low speed sputter but did have a high speed sputter which I fixed by changing the air cleaner to a less restricted one.Attachment 15180

Other fixed that problem with a U shaped air intake.

It's an unmolested 2010, not a 2012. I purchased it in early 2012, but the bike's frame tag, and the title both show it as a 2010. I might hit some of the local motorcycle stores and look into a different air cleaner/intake like your setup. I've seen that done on a good deal of DF's, and I think it's done stock on the CCW Heist.

The carb in the ebay link, and most of the ones I've found on ebay that are similar don't have an accelerator pump if the photos of the item. Shouldn't be an issue to use the one off of the Deni, although I may just see how it runs without one.

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Originally Posted by Woody87

It's an unmolested 2010, not a 2012. I purchased it in early 2012, but the bike's frame tag, and the title both show it as a 2010. I might hit some of the local motorcycle stores and look into a different air cleaner/intake like your setup. I've seen that done on a good deal of DF's, and I think it's done stock on the CCW Heist.

The carb in the ebay link, and most of the ones I've found on ebay that are similar don't have an accelerator pump if the photos of the item. Shouldn't be an issue to use the one off of the Deni, although I may just see how it runs without one.

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The air cleaner fixed my high speed sputter problem.
I seem to remember my 2010 coming with a 90 main jet but anyway you seem to be on the right track.

I'm just thinking to replace the carb with a new one to see if that fixes the low speed sputtering (missing).
That should eliminate the carb as a problem.

Seeing as how they put in a incorrect amperage fuse, it's entirely possible that the carb was intended for something needing a larger main jet (maybe a DF250RTC, or ATV?) I'm certain that the 167FMM factory cranks these engines out so quickly that a mixup would occur without being noticed. I'll be getting a new carb ordered today, I went to a local Honda motorcycle shop and all of the showroom floor workers were stuck-up A holes. "We don't touch Chinese knock-offs" was their response, which is funny because Japanese bikes got the same treatment when they first hit the US shores. Hopefully Chinese QC and dealer support will grow, and we'll see DF and Lifan dealers more and more in the future!

Woody,
Don't take my comment about the 90 main jet incorrectly, we had to change it for a 105 to get the 2010s to run right at high (:lol8: ) speed.

I still say the DF is not that bad quality wise.

The racing carb sold by http://shop.clevelandcyclewerks.com/...race-only-carb which is a pumper PZ30 has a 45 pilot jet and a 105 main jet. I wonder if we need to up our pilot to a 45? I'm currently running a 40 or a 42. I'll have to pull the pilot to be sure which I am running but I think it is a 42.

I've ordered a rebuild kit for the PZ30 carb, it comes with everything to include the mixture screw (which I may have turned in too far and damaged) along with pilot/main jets. No word on jet size, I'll find out from the seller what is available and choose from there. Wouldn't a 42/45 pilot make the idle mix even more rich than it is currently?

Also ordered an upgraded ignition coil, and a frisco-mount gas tank. I'm thinking that I may need to adjust the accel pump, as it may be coming on too hard and causing some of my low speed stutter. I still need to adjust the clutch, so I'll knock this out first thing Monday afternoon. I'm more than likely going to go with a Rosso red, or something close to that color for the fenders/tank and I'll be sure to post pics as soon as I'm done.

Woody,
Yep, probably a 45 will be too rich. I might go back to a 40 from the 42.

I though your low speed sputter occurred at a constant low speed. The accelerator pump only shoots a squirt of gas when you twist the throttle.

As an aside , i put a L shaped baffle in my DFs exhaust pipe to quieten it down which it did but it also appears to have improved the top speed. More testing to follow before I give any specs. So we need more back pressure?

I've got a removable baffle in mine as well, and it did seem to help a bit with the top end. I cleaned the plug yesterday and fiddled with the mix screw since it was warm out. Got the plug to a nice tan, but then went too far and started getting a whitish deposit signaling a lean condition. More meddling today and a ride to see how it goes, the Carb kit and coil are on their way, as is the fresco tank.

CCW reported that the CDI in our bikes is DC, so I may consider a Casoli unit in the future, can't go wrong for around $18. If I get one I'll report on it. Bar end mirrors and drag bar made a huge difference in look,btw!

Lastly, I'm considering getting a Colortune spark plug, with the motorcycle thread adapter. I've heard their super handy with carbbed thumpers, and prob will help with tuning my Datsun as well...

Attachment 15221I tried this Casoli CDI , it plugged in just fine but I could not get any spark. Went back to the stock one and she fired right up.

You got your plug nice and tan with by just adjusting the air mixture screw? You are running a 40 with no washers right? I need to check my low speed jet to see what I'm running.

40 with no washers is correct. You should check the videos of the Colortune, if you haven't seen it before. I thought they had gone out of production, but they can be had online from the UK for around $60-70, well worth it IMHO. Thanks for the heads-up on the Casoli!

I'm having more electrical issues!! Went to fire it up, it started the first time, but bogged down a bit. Went about tuning the mix/idle speed screw (which killed the engine a few times) Went to start it again, in successive attempts the fuse blew! I swapped it out for another ceramic 15A, but no luck. I'm hoping the solenoid/CDI/rectifier isn't damaged. The ceramic fuses I've got are quick-blow, so fingers crossed that it's just another bad fuse. I've got to be patient when starting this bike after it dies, as it seems too many attempts puts a draw on the system and blows fuses.

Ran out of daylight, so it looks like more troubleshooting on my plate tomorrow, yum.

I haven't checked my fuse but my wiring diagram which is a generic one shows a 7 amp fuse.

That's no bueno! I've got my manual listing it as a 15A in the diagram on the back page. If you would be so kind as to see what you're currently running in your bike, I'd greatly appreciate it. The fuse I had previously was a thin-wire (quick-blow) glass fuse, rather than the ceramic. However, I've been told that as long as the fuse is equal or less (in emergencies) on amperage, equal or greater on voltage, and the same fusing method (quick/fast) it'll work fine regardless of material. I'm a communications operator in the Marine Corps, so I've got plenty of test equipment and know-how on hand, but I can't do much without a proper circuit diagram or fuse rating at the moment.

In any case, I appreciate all the assistance you've given me. Seems to me that my luck is to get it running during foul weather, and have issues during sunny days like today. :hellfire: Funny thing is I got even more complements on the bike while working on it at my barracks. Makes it all the more frustrating when other people ride by on their crotchrockets, enjoying the unusually calm weather.

EDIT:
Found the fuse and it is a regular 15 amp. It is in the fake oil tank.
Also went back to all 2012 stock on my carb. 40,105, and removed the shims under the needle.

So you are a Marine, great. I was in the USAF from 1961 to 1965 as a Mace missile technician. Spent three great years stationed in Germany. We had a neat base hobby shop there were we could work on our bikes and autos.
I'll be in the mountains close to Robbinsville,NC in a few weeks for the summer. Great riding there.

Attachment 15222

Here you go Marine.:gun_bandana:

Speaking of wiring diagrams, since my eye sight is pretty bad, and the diagram in my book looks like spaghetti can someone maybe decifer what the colors of each wire is for the switch to the headlights/horn/turnsignal/highbeams are.I have a new switch for my bike, but it has a shorter wire run, so I will have to splice the wires, but cannot figure out which is which?
any help would be a blessing guys. Thanks.

Thank you for the help, Barnone and SR.Mailman! We've got a hobby shop here as well, to include a rentable paint booth and welding equipment. It's an awesome setup, but I've got to get the bike running right before I can make the trip to it. At least I know I'm running the right amperage fuse now though. Voltage doesn't matter so much in this application. I've tested the fuse that I swapped to replace the one that blew yesterday, turns out that one was bad as well! Can't say if it blew whilst swapping it, or if it came bad from the factory (Radio Shack $1 fuse pack)

I'll continue working on it this Friday, and seeing as how the tank came in the mail today, work on prepping the fenders and tank for paint. I've also got the "performance" coil in the mail, and I'll post a review and link to the seller, if it works out well enough.

Woody,
Please keep us updated with your findings. Waiting on your photos.
Attachment 15224
My 2012 DF out at the ranch.

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Originally Posted by axa

curious if anyone has collision on their DF?

i insured the DF it fully over the first year as i thought it might be worthy as i got used to driving a hardtail springer...
But now im not so sure if its worthy.

my agent says they would pay about what a "used" bike would be. thing is I doubt any one over there would ever find a listing for a used DF or the kbb value. and if they do it wouldnt be much.

dropping collision cuts my premiums for the year nearly in half.

what do you guys do.

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That's interesting as Im insured through Progressive via USAA. And Progressive told me I could not get full coverage for the beast. Im OK with this because I figure that if I screw my bike up THAT bad then my body will also be screwed up even worse and I may even be dead so who cares about full coverage. OK for my truck and Jeep but don't need it for my bike really. Liability only works fine for me and it's cheap. Full coverage on a 2k bike isn't going to do me any good if Im dead or in a wheel chair LOL.

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Originally Posted by Chi town

Hi all, does anyone know where I can get new throttle and clutch cable for my 2012 DF?

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Search the forums. I know there is replacement info in here somewhere. I think Triumpf. Or you could use the part number and google search it to find it aftermarket or from DF parts importers. It's there, just use the search engine.

When I changed out my Bars for mini apes, I had to get a longer clutch cable, I went with a Triumph cable. works great. Ebay had a few of them that would work, but I actually have a dealer ship around town.. www.gulfcoastmotorcycle.com they had the cable I needed. Just had to match up the length I needed with the proper barrel nipple for the handle, and the correct fitting for the clutch ,which had to be modified once I got it home.

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Originally Posted by barnone

Took her out for a "high" speed run. At 75 MPH indicated (probably about 68 MPH real) she is turning (with my 38 tooth rear sprocket) about 7600 RPM in fifth.
Vibration is getting very uncomfortable at that RPM.

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I posted this back in 2011 when I had a 2010 DF. Can't get the same speed out of my 2012 DF.
Most RPM I can get on my 2012 DF in fifth gear is about 6200 RPM, about 65 MPH indicated (no GPS but probably approx 60 MPH real). No bad vibration.

I am puzzled or was I full of BS back then? :lol8:

Anyway, I am back to stock 2012 jets and will try her again.

Got my hands on the coil and on the rebuild kit. Performance coil has a Primary rating of .6 ohms and secondary of 5.7k ohms. I haven't had the chance to check the stocker, but the install should go fairly quick, and I'll post results. The PZ30 kit has some good, some bad. The good is that the needle has the c-clip notches on it to adjust the mid-range mixture. The bad is that the jets don't have the size stamped on them! I'll just have to compare them to the ones I'm running now, in any case I mostly needed the pilot jet and mixture screw. Everything else is a backup.

On a side note, what position is the c-clip on your carb needle, Barnone?

Woody,
My installed needle only has one notch. I was running two washers under the needle head but recently removed them. I also have a rebuild kit with the multiple notches on the needle but have never used it.
My kit has a 39 pilot and an unmarked high speed.
Did you solve your low speed sputter problem?

I haven't had the chance to swap out the jets or coil, as I've been swamped with work and with schooling. The weather also hasn't helped, but first bit of clear weather I get I'll set about adjusting the carb, and replacing the coil (as well as providing feedback on the coil).

**UPDATE***

Swapped out the coil, reconnected the battery. Stock coil has 3 ohm Primary and 9.86k Secondary ratings. !! Blew two more ceramic 15A fuses !! The second I hit the start switch the damn thing blew. Swapped out the fuse for another while the key was still in the "on" position, blew the last spare :terd
Moved the key to the "off" position, tried dropping in an automotive-style AGC 15A 32V fuse, blew it the second it touched the contacts.

Looks like I'm going to have to trace wires. I'm at a loss of what it could be, as I haven't modified any of the wiring on the bike

Check battery +/positive wire connection for touching the metal box it is in.

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Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN

Check battery +/positive wire connection for touching the metal box it is in.

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That would just short out the battery.

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Originally Posted by barnone

That would just short out the battery.

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Your right Vince. Please call it a "senior moment".

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Originally Posted by GonzoX

That's interesting as Im insured through Progressive via USAA. And Progressive told me I could not get full coverage for the beast. Im OK with this because I figure that if I screw my bike up THAT bad then my body will also be screwed up even worse and I may even be dead so who cares about full coverage. OK for my truck and Jeep but don't need it for my bike really. Liability only works fine for me and it's cheap. Full coverage on a 2k bike isn't going to do me any good if Im dead or in a wheel chair LOL.

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Allstate insures it where i am fully. about 45$ a year for collision, with a 200$ deductible i believe. Rates are not cheap tri state NYC.
I figured it was worth the price for the first year just because i figured the risk of doing something stupid was high. And they said they would pay roughly 2k for a total loss that first year.
Now Im told pay out would be "roughly the price of a used bike", but who the hell knows what that would as there is no market for these bikes.

Anyway I dont trust the insurance industry, and usually self insure collision and keep a very high deductible on liabilities, so i dropped it and now pay about 60 a year for liabilities, medicals and what not.

USAA_or AMICA on the other hand has is great service, i guess they wont putz around with you and tell you your getting full coverage when the benefit to you is marginal.

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Originally Posted by axa

Allstate insures it where i am fully. about 45$ a year for collision, with a 200$ deductible i believe. Rates are not cheap tri state NYC.
I figured it was worth the price for the first year just because i figured the risk of doing something stupid was high. And they said they would pay roughly 2k for a total loss that first year.
Now Im told pay out would be "roughly the price of a used bike", but who the hell knows what that would as there is no market for these bikes.

Anyway I dont trust the insurance industry, and usually self insure collision and keep a very high deductible on liabilities, so i dropped it and now pay about 60 a year for liabilities, medicals and what not.

USAA_or AMICA on the other hand has is great service, i guess they wont putz around with you and tell you your getting full coverage when the benefit to you is marginal.

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Dang axa, I have liability only from Progressive through USAA and its about $70 a year. They don't offer full coverage for Chinese bikes according to them. And that's OK since I figure that if I total the bike I total myself as well. No use having insurance on your bike if your tits up IMHO. Will agree on this though, USAA is the best insurance CO ever. Hands down. They took care of me many of times.