Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

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Originally Posted by Roadkill

I just assumed that Dan was talking about the bobber, but his recent post says that he drives a different bike. Maybe it's lighter, or has a different transmission. Might be his will do what he says. Don't they make s streetbike version with the same motor?

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All the same engine...
As for weight, I had my gf take a spin, she's like 105, far less than Dan
I would believe compensates for the different bike game, if any.

I've not read about anyone with his bike achieving what is claimed anyway, though they don't have a forum to make it known...


I also once had a 35# hunk of metal in my back pack, didn't notice much of a difference otherwise...
And this is because at highway speeds the primary factor is overcoming wind resistance not the delta of already moving mass...

I'm going to look at the chain/ratio discrepancy... Occam's razor...

1 more thing to concider , my butt is not even knee high off ground , with legs near straight out , thus about foot closer to the ground than u guys and thus less air resistance

but im not saying don't change chain and sprocket , if u have the cash burning a hole , 1 to 1.5 hp , gained from chain swap on a 10 hp motor can be significant , like another 6-7 mph

but do note , article was a 1000 ninja (so less gain to be xpected), but it did say 530 to 520chains not the much more drastic (520 to 428 hd) I use

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Originally Posted by Roadkill

I just assumed that Dan was talking about the bobber, but his recent post says that he drives a different bike. Maybe it's lighter, or has a different transmission. Might be his will do what he says. Don't they make s streetbike version with the same motor?

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As you can see from his photo, Dan has a different bike but has the same 167fmm engine as our DF250RTBs. The engine is used in a lot of different Chinese bikes. There is a 270cc version but unfortunately it is not EPA certified.

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Originally Posted by DanDaMan

1 more thing to concider , my butt is not even knee high off ground , with legs near straight out , thus about foot closer to the ground than u guys and thus less air resistance

but im not saying don't change chain and sprocket , if u have the cash burning a hole , 1 to 1.5 hp , gained from chain swap on a 10 hp motor can be significant , like another 6-7 mph

but do note , article was a 1000 ninja (so less gain to be xpected), but it did say 530 to 520chains not the much more drastic (520 to 428 hd) I use

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The gain of 1 to 1.5 HP in the test was on a 118 HP engine .

Using the same ratio on a 167fmm, the gain would be like a .1 to .15 HP increase.

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Originally Posted by barnone

As you can see from his photo, Dan has a different bike but has the same 167fmm engine as our DF250RTBs. The engine is used in a lot of different Chinese bikes. There is a 270cc version but unfortunately it is not EPA certified.

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Off Topic - Deleted by Roadkill

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Originally Posted by ben2go

My GS is 9.5:1 and 175psi is what it puts out when warm.A compression check needs to be done on a warm engine.Any problems that maybe there when running, can go away when the engine cools and the metal tightens back up.

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She's running really nice now but I was concered about the valves so I ran compression this AM. She cranks up 162 psi. Steady climb in about 3 - 4 revolutions. Repeated 3 times with same results. This is with the engine warm, valves set at .002 and .004, choke off and throttle wide open. I was worried about valve damage. Not so much, now.

Checked the plug while I had it out. She is running a little lean so I need to mess with that some.

My set-up: 2012 B model, performance CDI with 4 degree advance, performance coil, Iriduim plug gapped to .028, 30mm Mikuni VM carb with stock needles and jet needle at highest setting, EPA crap removed and plugged, Stock size air filter without the crankcase breather fitting, 35T rear sprocket.

The total cost of all mods was about $100 - 125 and I now have spares for everything.

I have one of those performance CDIs which I haven't installed. Need to figure out some sort of test before and after to see it it does any good.

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Originally Posted by barnone

I have one of those performance CDIs which I haven't installed. Need to figure out some sort of test before and after to see it it does any good.

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Mine feels a little stronger at mid-range. Maybe because it's supposed to have the advance in that range. Maybe it's just a placebo. I live in town and don't really have a place to check top speed. Keep hitting traffic lights. I had one on my trike and had kick back problems on start. I've seen them with adjustable advance.

good to here your resolved roadkill , if ever heading to Austin shout out ill meet ya somewhere let ya see my moped in action

You really should take him up on that offer... It's not every day your invited to witness the world's fastest 167FMM...

Well i got my replacement starter clutch assembly.It comes with the gear, and it is correct. I started to assemble, got to the point of torgueing down the main shaft bolt to the sugested 80lbs, and well the bolt snapped. I do not think 80lbs is correct so be very careful if you have to do this and I recomend you go a bit less. The bolt seems to thread all the way in and just tighten enough to hold the drum in place. I had to get an extractor to remove the remainder of the bolt, thankfully it was realatively easy enough.Now the hunt for a replacment bolt. Gonna go with a better quality of bolt but have to wait until tomorrow. just an update, will follow up next time I work it.


Oh just wondering if anyone would know where i can look to possibly find the torque specs on that particular bolt. At this point I am just gonna use about 40lbs. seems tight enough.. and considering the rotation I really do not see it coming free.probably gonna add some lock tight as well. any other thought would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Well i got my replacement starter clutch assembly.It comes with the gear, and it is correct. I started to assemble, got to the point of torgueing down the main shaft bolt to the sugested 80lbs, and well the bolt snapped. I do not think 80lbs is correct so be very careful if you have to do this and I recomend you go a bit less. The bolt seems to thread all the way in and just tighten enough to hold the drum in place. I had to get an extractor to remove the remainder of the bolt, thankfully it was realatively easy enough.Now the hunt for a replacment bolt. Gonna go with a better quality of bolt but have to wait until tomorrow. just an update, will follow up next time I work it.


Oh just wondering if anyone would know where i can look to possibly find the torque specs on that particular bolt. At this point I am just gonna use about 40lbs. seems tight enough.. and considering the rotation I really do not see it coming free.probably gonna add some lock tight as well. any other thought would be appreciated.

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I feel bad now.I sincerely apologize for that.That 80lb torque number was for my GS.It has no key to lock the rotor on.It's purely press on fitment.

ouch Bowtie , and Axa your utter disbelief the bike can do 75 in near perfect conditions makes me smile , knowing it does and thinking I can get a little more , main a hair to big (I think) and acts like I choke out a little at 90-100% throttle , need to do another full throttle highway speed kill switch plug check

maybe Ill ride up within the next few weekends to ride with Bowtie

PS Bowtie , Ive used FASTNALL to upgrade near all my bikes bolts to top quality

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Originally Posted by DanDaMan

I do mine the same as my 74 Beetle air cooled pushrod engine, 6 and .008

and U do know the air injection itself is meant to "pop off" unspent fuel for cleaner emissions , - could that be the "miss" your hearing ?
many of us remove it and block it with homemade plate

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Yes totally normal with stock setup. I only get that when the engine is cold. As long as she idles and runs normally I don't worry about it. Have yet too block off the EMS stuff. Doesn't bother me but I know it's an option. AFAIAC the popping is a good thing as it lets the idiot drivers behind me let them know I'm there. That's a good thing AFAIAC. Chitty Chitty bang bang there goes we. This is not a Caddy, it's an old school Honda engine. If she starts up and gets me there Im happy but I guess ignorance is bliss LOL.

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Originally Posted by Roadkill

Lived in Austin for a year or so. I really miss it. In that year, I don't think I hit 60 any place in town. That city has the most messed up drivers in TX except for Laredo. Rode a Honda Valk in Laredo for a while. That's some crazy stuff for a biker.

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Sweet. Could only do 50 on the Hwy in Central TX. Brother tried to sell me a used Suzuki 700 Predator for $800 but could not come up with the change. Think Ill invest in my DF moped for now.

They did go to the Republic Of Texas rally a while back but I had to work. Wonder what all the Harley guys would have said about my bike LOL.

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Originally Posted by ben2go

I feel bad now.I sincerely apologize for that.That 80lb torque number was for my GS.It has no key to lock the rotor on.It's purely press on fitment.

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Dude..no worries, live and learn is my moto. Besides, if something did not go wrong, I would be worried later that something would. Seems to be the case with Lady Luck and myself.She always has to play the game with me.

Going to find a new better bolt today, and all will be good. But still ,thanks for all the input, you definetly helped me out in a good way.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Dude..no worries, live and learn is my moto. Besides, if something did not go wrong, I would be worried later that something would. Seems to be the case with Lady Luck and myself.She always has to play the game with me.

Going to find a new better bolt today, and all will be good. But still ,thanks for all the input, you definetly helped me out in a good way.

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:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by GonzoX

Wonder what all the Harley guys would have said about my bike LOL.

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I put decals on the tank so they think it is an old restored Indian.:naughty:
Attachment 15557
Neither confirm or deny when they ask makes them happy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Well i got my replacement starter clutch assembly.It comes with the gear, and it is correct. I started to assemble, got to the point of torgueing down the main shaft bolt to the sugested 80lbs, and well the bolt snapped. I do not think 80lbs is correct so be very careful if you have to do this and I recomend you go a bit less. The bolt seems to thread all the way in and just tighten enough to hold the drum in place. I had to get an extractor to remove the remainder of the bolt, thankfully it was realatively easy enough.Now the hunt for a replacment bolt. Gonna go with a better quality of bolt but have to wait until tomorrow. just an update, will follow up next time I work it.


Oh just wondering if anyone would know where i can look to possibly find the torque specs on that particular bolt. At this point I am just gonna use about 40lbs. seems tight enough.. and considering the rotation I really do not see it coming free.probably gonna add some lock tight as well. any other thought would be appreciated.

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The highest torque inside My Yamaha 250 is a NUT ,on the stator side of the crankshaft, at 58 ft lbs. On the clutch side of the crankshaft,the NUT is 54 ft lbs.

I only mention this to let you know how far off you were. Good luck on finding the right size bolt.

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Originally Posted by SR.MAILMAN

The highest torque inside My Yamaha 250 is a NUT ,on the stator side of the crankshaft, at 58 ft lbs. On the clutch side of the crankshaft,the NUT is 54 ft lbs.

I only mention this to let you know how far off you were. Good luck on finding the right size bolt.

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Well i figure since this has a key in the shaft, and the bolt is basically threaded in until seated, I do not see going further than 40lbs, if that. As for the bolt.. I have a place here in town that has just about anything hradware you could ever ask for, so I am hitting them up after work today.managed to find most any size bolt I have needed so far for this bike there.

barnon that decal is cool.I have had many people ask about my bike as to whether it was a triumph of not, or an old indian as well. I just kinda say "something like that" and they just compliment me.

Show and tell! This is Roadkil with her stealth turn signals and bags. Taken before the Mikuni carb was installed.Attachment 15563

so odd , at 60 , Im rich andfull throttle chokes the motor , but at 70-75 ,it doesntchoke out at all and goto full throttle without issue , that forward facining filter I bet

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Originally Posted by Roadkill

Show and tell! This is Roadkil with her stealth turn signals and bags. Taken before the Mikuni carb was installed.

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So stealth that I can't see them even when I enlarge the picture. How about a closer up photo?
I have some bar end turn signals that I am gonna install one of these days. I had them on my 2010 DF

Attachment 15565Attachment 15566

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Originally Posted by barnone

So stealth that I can't see them even when I enlarge the picture. How about a closer up photo?
I have some bar end turn signals that I am gonna install one of these days. I had then on my 2010 DF

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Sorry. They're very small LED lights. I did have to install an led flasher, but that was just a matter of cutting the connector off of the stock flasher and soldering it on the new one. I also had to order mounts for the front signal. I think total cost was about $30 and a month for the stuff to get here from China.

Nite photos show up the sorry paint on this bike. This TX sun is hard on everything and the matt black seems to be very unforgiving of the sun. I'm gonna try to wax her out tomorrow. The deal that says CHINA on the front fork is my chain and the red rims are reflective tape.

Nice. I assume the leds are plenty bright. The DF paint quality does not bother me, my bikes stay dirty here in the mountains anyway.


Attachment 15567
I'm gonna try for this setup.

:icon10:

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Originally Posted by barnone

Nice. I assume the leds are plenty bright. The DF paint quality does not bother me, my bikes stay dirty here in the mountains anyway.


Attachment 15567
I'm gonna try for this setup.

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I've not seen a set-up like that in person, but I've always wondered how the signal wires are run. Do the bars have to have exit holes drilled somewhere for the wires?

I'm sure that raggedy paint was the rule when bobbers first came into being, but I've always ridden baggers where paint and chrome were important. I'm having transition anxeity. Kinda feels like skipping that daily shower.

I see you have a Ural. I wanted one of those when they were first being imported from Russia and the Honda 750-4 was the hot ride. Thought a sidecar rig would be so cool. I saw my first rig recently. Harley with a car. It's so big and so heavy! Changed my mind about a rig.

rear hydraulic brake switch failed on me since last check (2 weeks or so) : \

ordered http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-693#reviews will update fitment on delivery

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Originally Posted by Roadkill

:icon10:
I've not seen a set-up like that in person, but I've always wondered how the signal wires are run. Do the bars have to have exit holes drilled somewhere for the wires?

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I drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the handlebar on the bottom, put a grommet in the hole and run the wires through it.

all buttoned up and back on the road again. Went together just fine,started right up.No problems at all. gonna take her for a spin later today to bust the cobwebs off her from sitting for a month. Thanks for everyones input you guys are great.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

all buttoned up and back on the road again. Went together just fine,started right up.No problems at all. gonna take her for a spin later today to bust the cobwebs off her from sitting for a month. Thanks for everyones input you guys are great.

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http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htm