Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barnone

axa,
It was just a suggestion, no need to go off. Also what head are you talking about? They claim that the cylinder will fit. Positive feedback at
98.9%

---

not sure how you read text with such emotion, but i write with little.
suggestions are appreciated, though yours are usually more spot on...

anyway, for one, its a 69 mm piston thus you can guess why it wont fit, but in particular, what they measure as "Outer diameter of skirt:75mm" is far larger than the hole in your transmission.
Another is the lower rocker mount bolt is 90° out where it needs to be, there must be a ton of others, the head is for a different motor entirely.


anxious to know how your cooler works....
also to know if your paint job will stick to the head.
It seems all replacement/aftermarket parts are this gray textured paint that does not only look bad, but as you would imagine the texture grabs every bit of grease and grime.

i would think it would have been important to wash it down with soap and water (if not acetone) making it impeccably clean and perhaps first priming.
not that i know about these things...

My starter whines but wont engage the motor. Would you be interested in selling your extra starter?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tedub

My starter whines but wont engage the motor. Would you be interested in selling your extra starter?

---

That is a bad starter clutch not a bad starter.Your starter is spinning but the clutch isn't engaging the rotor.It's completely separate from the starter.See this post for more info. http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post69951

Yea, It's the starter clutch. Highjack, Does anybody know if that wiring change for the dim headlight on post 952 page 96 works for the long term ?
e
,

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 4950cycle

Highjack, Does anybody know if that wiring change for the dim headlight on post 952 page 96 works for the long term ?
e
,

---

"Headlight dimming issue resolved!!! After checking everything out with a friend who has a good knowledge of electrics it is confirmed as reported by Reporon that there is a blue wire with white stripe underneath the left side of the gas tank that connects to a dark green wire. It is the only single wire to single wire connection underneath the tank. For some reason as you rev the engine the voltage actually drops from the dark green wire. SOLUTION: Disconnect the wires, cap the green wire and connect the blue wire with white stripe to one of the black wires which are usually a constant 12V (backwards from the black ground we are used to). Now the headlight comes on with the ignition switch and the headlight gets brighter with the engine RPM's and maintains a constant brightness. Also happy to report that there has been no battery problems wiring the headlight that way."

Works for the 2010 DF. Any 2010 owners have a problem with headlight failure after doing this mod?

That flawed headlight driver got me thinking...

I hate it when people just talk about things they are planning to do as talking about them seems to help they never get done, but as ive recently been developing an automation system for my lathe, ive found great success and accuracy with hall effect sensors when used with micro-controllers.

Actually they are widely used many places such as ABS sensor and cam position sensors.. but i thought my DF could use an accurate, low cost, highly functionally speedometer... A magnet would need to be machined into one of the wheel hubs.

Thing is i dont like the digital look, so id look for something analog.. not sure if that exists but id prefer it.

While at it, i will include an alternating headlight and flashing brake driver, ive always wanted those, as im often worried about being noticed...

And to really put it over the top and in to the realm of entirely useless, im going to try to include an relay in parallel with the starter triggered by blue tooth... REMOTE START!!


well ill need to find the time to get to this after the lathe project but i thought that would be pretty neat for the DF. I actually bought the components quite sometime ago but never been motivated.

Lots of time to daydream while waiting on engine parts... im going to miss the entire riding season...

I am just about ready to put the new tank on.I had to bullet end all my wire harness for it to fit in and around the new tank, had to relocate a couple parts, and shave off some brackets. Now i just need to matte clear my tank, and install.. but been so busy at work, by the time I get home,I am exhausted. So probably gonna do it this weekend. Will have to decide on whether to drill into the frame and tap the holes, or just use hose clamps to affix it on> Which would you prefer?

bow,
How about a photo of the tank sitting on your DF? Maybe then we can offer some advice.

I removed the stripes under the clear coat, sanded out the ridges, and painted the tank and fenders flat black.

Started mounting the oil cooler. Need to install the new valve cover and attach the oil lines.

Redid the rear rack and added some small bags.
Attachment 15722Attachment 15719Attachment 15720Attachment 15721

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barnone

bow,
How about a photo of the tank sitting on your DF? Maybe then we can offer some advice.

---

Fair enough, will take pics as soon as I can.. Hitting the movies tonight after work with the guys, Guardians of the Galaxy. We're all a bunch of geeks. But will try before the weekend.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

I am just about ready to put the new tank on.I had to bullet end all my wire harness for it to fit in and around the new tank, had to relocate a couple parts, and shave off some brackets. Now i just need to matte clear my tank, and install.. but been so busy at work, by the time I get home,I am exhausted. So probably gonna do it this weekend. Will have to decide on whether to drill into the frame and tap the holes, or just use hose clamps to affix it on> Which would you prefer?

---

hard to visualize but I've had to consider how I will eventually mount a tank on my new build. it needs to be mounted through rubber bushings, such as the way your current tank is...
otherwise the hardtail will eventually shake things until something bad happens.
I don't believe you can skip these...

I'll tell you how it works out. I just hard mounted a Harley peanut tank on my China Bobber. Along with flashing strobe front light , The head light wiring mod also. And last but not least one of those rotating tail light bulbs after modifying the tail light housing to accomidate the rearward facing rotating bulb
. Sheepskin/gel seat cover , added seat springs, and a custom billet rearward handle bar fitting (brings bars 3 inches closer to me). Almost done with this thing !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 4950cycle

I'll tell you how it works out. I just hard mounted a Harley peanut tank on my China Bobber. Along with flashing strobe front light , The head light wiring mod also. And last but not least one of those rotating tail light bulbs after modifying the tail light housing to accomidate the rearward facing rotating bulb
. Sheepskin/gel seat cover , added seat springs, and a custom billet rearward handle bar fitting (brings bars 3 inches closer to me). Almost done with this thing !

---

How about some photos of your build?
Thanks

I was thinking about some sort of bushing under the ears of the tank. Nothing too big, just some cushion. Probably going to bolt it in. Seems beeter choice for the amount of jolts this bike gets being a hard tail, if I use just hose clamps, it will probably just rotate as I ride. I need it to stay put.

Attachment 15729Attachment 15730Attachment 15731

On the way to the garbage dump and then to the gym.:lol8:

Handles just fine pulling the trailer with a pretty heavy load.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by axa

so what's the results of the oil cooler?
significant? notable? negligible? none? worse?

which paint did you use? I reckon you use a rattle can like me.
I just started painting the new heads and cylinders and used rustoleum high heat ultra for 'stoves fireplaces ovens automotive parts, rather than the engine paint.
I didn't think twice as was just lookin to mach the transmission gloss black.
But paint is way too finicky and should be done right, primarily an enamel that resists not only the heat but oil/gas as an engine is bound to get some of that...

---

Moved this message from PM to thread so I could post photos.
Still haven't mounted the oil cooler. Trying to figure out a way to measure if it is worth doing. Looking for an oil temp gauge that I can use on the DF.

Attachment 15736

I think I need to find a gauge that will mount in that port in the valve cover. Stock cover has the same port. Ideas?
No sense mounting an oil cooler if it is not needed or doesn't lower oil temperature.

Used this paint which I had in the shop.
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248...t+engine+black

why might you need to use any other thermometer than you use now under the plug?

isn't the idea is dissipate as much has as possible so that the vital components are less stressed?
or is the idea to cool the oil so that it is more useful in other areas?

i would think this is a zero sum game, meaning if the cooler is working then it is reasonable to assume there will be less heat wherever the thermometer is mounted.

but if you shouldn't expect any effect at the plug then I suppose you do need to get a oil temp reading before and after to know it is working...

for that there are plugs that replace the dip stick I believe.
but for this engine I'm not sure.

I would have thought you want to know if it ran cooler period, then the oil by definition would be cooler because it was the oil that is doing the cooling.
and where better than under the plug where most of the heat is generated.


on a related issue when I saw that cooler, I wondered if the cg splash pump would even be adequate to pump in and out of that radiator...
I have my doubts...

"on a related issue when I saw that cooler, I wondered if the cg splash pump would even be adequate to pump in and out of that radiator...
I have my doubts..."
Yep, same concern here. Maybe an oil pressure gauge at that port before and after oil cooler install?

I think I need to measure the oil temp before and after install.

Anyway, no rush on my part on installing the cooler.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barnone

Anyway, no rush on my part on installing the cooler.

---

sure, but life is short and inquiring minds want to know...

i say hook it up 20 minutes of work...
drive around a while see if you notice any difference... if the temp goes up cuz it impedes flow, get it off...
sure the system would likely be much better with a inline pump, but you might see results immediately, and if you dont see anything one way or the other, well take it off when you find the time... or dont...

you dont need to wait drain/waste oil, you dont need to replace gaskets, you dont need to invest much time. you bought it to use, not look at.

have i not convinced u yet?

"have i not convinced u yet?"
Not yet.
Have no way of measuring oil temp yet.
Just ordered an oil pressure gauge.

Have an emergency, if anyone is aboad here. I redid the wiring for my bike,making sure every wire was attached to the same wire it was attached to before. Now here is what is happening. evrything seems to work, I get power to and from the starter switch on the bars, and all the way to the starter relay, but It will not turn the starter over. I bought a new relay and just put it on, but still the same issue.. not start. I checked again with my test light, and all wires get power when i press the switch.But the wire to the starter from the relay is still not getting power. Common sense tells you that the relay is not good ..correct? Here is my question.I bought a relay from a scooter place that is supposed to be for a 250cc motor. Now, are the relays that critical? is there one I should buy and instead of this one I have? I looked all over ebay and found a few that look similar, but is the current an issue?

Also what does a CDI do? just wondering if my problem lies somewhere else. Now I did hot jump the starter while the wires were attatched on the relay, just a quick tap, and it works. I am nuts here with this. Driving me batty.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Have an emergency, if anyone is aboad here. I redid the wiring for my bike,making sure every wire was attached to the same wire it was attached to before. Now here is what is happening. evrything seems to work, I get power to and from the starter switch on the bars, and all the way to the starter relay, but It will not turn the starter over. I bought a new relay and just put it on, but still the same issue.. not start. I checked again with my test light, and all wires get power when i press the switch.But the wire to the starter from the relay is still not getting power. Common sense tells you that the relay is not good ..correct? Here is my question.I bought a relay from a scooter place that is supposed to be for a 250cc motor. Now, are the relays that critical? is there one I should buy and instead of this one I have? I looked all over ebay and found a few that look similar, but is the current an issue?

Also what does a CDI do? just wondering if my problem lies somewhere else. Now I did hot jump the starter while the wires were attatched on the relay, just a quick tap, and it works. I am nuts here with this. Driving me batty.

---

You need a relay rated to carry the current that the starter motor will pull once it starts spinning.I can't say what your starter will require or what the new relay can handle.The CDI is what controls the ignition and timing the firing events.It is what motorcycles use instead of an electronic distributor.Also,new batteries may need to be charged.They can go low while sitting on the shelf.

Thanks for the reply.
I have another question. On the clutch handle, there are two wires that come off that.Where do they go to? What are they for? Are they something truly needed?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Thanks for the reply.
I have another question. On the clutch handle, there are two wires that come off that.Where do they go to? What are they for? Are they something truly needed?

---

So you can start bike in gear by pulling clutch lever in.
Yes important.

Thanks Bar, well the problem was that the new switch I had to get to replace my no functioning light switch did not have that on it. So I do not know where they run to on the scematic to replace them. Any info on that. I would like to rewire that so they work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Thanks Bar, well the problem was that the new switch I had to get to replace my no functioning light switch did not have that on it. So I do not know where they run to on the scematic to replace them. Any info on that. I would like to rewire that so they work.

---

clutch side? aint there the horn switch wires also?

might you have a car to try and jump it with?
i never get any results push starting

i would say the relay should be 15A as the stock fuse was 15A, but i had been driving around with 10A fuse for a while as its all i had, so 10A relay should at least work if not last long.

bad switch , but u already tested with light.

your left with a loose or fraying wire.
a loose or fraying wire could readily allow a small current to pass for a test lite, but when current increases for the starter, that small resistance increase drops voltage across it and might cause a problem on the load (starter).
if that's your problem you need to find that bad wire cuz it will soon burn up from the heat of dropped voltage...
same goes for the switch now that i think of it, it might pass the current for the test light but a bad contact may cause the higher resistance...

you can try just BRIEFLY shorting the starter straight to the battery bypassing everything and make sure its not the starter...

then remove the relay for testing alone...
that all it can be i think

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

Thanks Bar, well the problem was that the new switch I had to get to replace my no functioning light switch did not have that on it. So I do not know where they run to on the scematic to replace them. Any info on that. I would like to rewire that so they work.

---

I don't think that the missing clutch switch should keep the bike from starting. I don't have a 2010 DF wiring diagram. I think you should still be able to start the bike with the transmission in neutral.

I'd try axa's idea of jumping directly to the starter.

I kinda thought that the clutch thing would not be an issue, i just neede to hear another opinion on it, so thanks bar. Plus I have already jumped the starter, it works fine. It was suggested to me to use another type of rela. i am going to try that. I think the one I purchased to replace the first bad one, just was not strong enough, as it was designed for a scooter.. so we shall see what happens from this point.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

I kinda thought that the clutch thing would not be an issue, i just neede to hear another opinion on it, so thanks bar. Plus I have already jumped the starter, it works fine. It was suggested to me to use another type of rela. i am going to try that. I think the one I purchased to replace the first bad one, just was not strong enough, as it was designed for a scooter.. so we shall see what happens from this point.

---

Should not matter if it is a scooter relay. Is the relay picking?

Picking? Not sure what that means.