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I'm looking at these ones:
Cree Q5 15W
http://img01.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/...!555440396.jpg
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=9682779974
2 x 1200 lumen should be pretty damn bright!
I'm still not too clear on what other things i need. Can i connect them straight to the battery (via a switch) or do i need relays and other shit?
I bought several sets (since I have several motorcycles) that I plan on installing sometime during the CNY or not long thereafter. All sets I bought are 30W LED, since you can never have enough light IMO especially in China. Since I do a lot of motorcycle riding at night time, then it's even more a requirment that I have better than average lights on my motorcycles, notwithstanding in areas where there are other traffic that I have the ability to use said lighting to try to force other drivers to lower/dip the highbeam on their vehicles (an all too common problem here the middle kingd00m).
I've fitted HID lights to all my motorcycles with the exception of my Super Tenere S10. I bought LED (from a taobao dealer) lights to supplement the HID lights, since LED's can produce a brighter white light which is highly conspicuous but does not provide a high level of illumination. This means others can see the LED's more easily, but the lights don't provide enough illuminated light to be used for primary means of navigation. LED's also consume less electricity so have many more applications compared to other forms of automotive lighting.
The taobao link is to a set I've bought for my Dragstar Classic 1100, whereas the other sets are the same style as felix's (above).
It depends on the application. If you have a bike with a high output alternator then you may not need to install a relay. If you have a low output alternator then a relay is recommended. If you have either but have lots of farkles (accessories like I tend to run on my bikes) then a relay is a wise choice. You might like to also consider a PC-8 Fusebox or similar depending on your application, from Eastern Beaver (pdf install link for the PC-8). As for a switch, again it depends on how you want to use the LED's either complimentary to the standard bikes headlights, or indepdenent from. Either switchable is always a nice idea, which is why I bought several sets of switches with ring collars that I could attach to the handle bars of my bikes from the taoboa dealer (above post). These I plan to wire inline, and attach on the handlebars where possible. If you choose not to go with a switch then you'll have to work out how you plan to splice into your bike. Always on with ignition, on with low beam versus highbeam headlight, or with the park light? Mine I plan to wire to a fusebox, switched independent of headlight/parklight and use a relay.Quote:
Originally Posted by felix
Just my wu jiao's worth plus a fen or two to cover inflation.
A little electrical education...
If one plans on fitting and using 55 watt bulbs in fog lamps then....
I = W / E
I = amps
W = watts
E = Volts
I = 55W divided by 12v (volts)
I = 4.58 amps.
2 bulbs=>
4.58 x 2
Total I = 9.16 Amps
In regards to running wiring, simply match what the lighting kit is supplied with and make wiring as short as practical and you should be fine. Most manufacturers supply accessory lights with 12 gauge wire or a 14 gauge. You could get away with a 16 gauge for the single light set up but you are better off increasing that 14 or 12 gauge. Practical application dictates using a gauge up from the minimum. It reduces voltage loss, heat, and provides a better durability quotient. If you have any doubt as to what the wiring is from the manufacturer, give them a call. Never use a gauge smaller than what is recommended or provided in the kit.
Reference table to check
Ok thanks a lot for that info bikerdoc! This is turning out to be a great thread despite the original poster's best efforts to not even contribute any punctuation.
Since i'm already running car horns, heated grips and a 2A usb charger off the bike's original wiring, i think it might be smart to hook these lights up to the battery.
From what i understand, a relay is only necessary if i want to use the switches that already exist on my bike. If i had the lights on a completely different circuit, with their own switch and plugged straight into the battery, there'd be no need for a relay. Correct?
I haven't decided yet whether i want to use my existing switches or add some extra ones (big red button potential).
Advantages of big red button:
- Awesomeness
- Easier to wire up
- Leaves my existing wiring unharmed
Advantages of using existing light switches:
- Assholes can't play with my lights when the bike is parked
- I can wire the new lights into the 'passing' switch and use them to signal people
- Convenient location
Either way this will all have to wait til after CNY. It's that time of year again when taobao sellers leave their computer, kuaidi companies park their ebikes and the whole country grinds to a shuddering halt as everyone is done with looking busy for the next three weeks. (plus another three week after that to 'ease back into it')
it's may not easy to find out how much ampage the headlight cable is capable as safe. that why i didnt bet on luck and bought in relay. large current doesnot pass switch is another reason.
felix i guess your bike has got 3 phrase alternator but subpar RR, you may need upgrade it too. to check the bike has enough power, measure the voltage as every bit of electric devices open, see if the voltage is above 14v at battery as your rev the engine up.
good luck and have good chn new year holiday.
These bullet LED lights are great for extra visibility and arent expensive.
http://www.bikevis.com/motorcycle-led-running-lights.html
Also I have replaced my crappy old fashion sidelight filament bulb with a a Super White LED bulbs, remember tho you might have to change the polarity of your wiring as LED will only work one way round as they are a diode!
I used one of these 8 led ones from ebay and soldered a bulb base on it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-T10-50...item4600126437
You can get them ready made though
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-White-8...#ht_1758wt_952
Led's will not only use less power they will last mutch longer than bulbs:clap:
I think those little 3 diode lamps are exactly what I want for my bike. As it was originally fit with extra lights and sirens I think it's got a high output alternator. I was thinking I'd like them mounted a little lower, mostly aiming low and a little outward. Because LEDs don't have such a reach I thought they would be good for aiming at the ground about 30-40 feet in front of the bike. I'd like to get these fit low on either side, right "inside" the crash bars, just to protect them. I've also got this spare "Lamp" switch that I'm dieing to do something with.
The same shop seems to sell drop in LED replacements for standard incandescent signal/break lights, etc. I would be especially interested in brighter break lights.
Attachment 6164
Attachment 6165
Alright, I ordered two of the the 15W lights off Taobao and I'll post some pictures of the mounting solution I have in mind as well as some of the effect of the lighting compared to the headlight.
I'm also thinking of getting another set and a bracket to mount another pair in front of the forks. I think that would be nice because they would aim along with the headlight. I've got another spare switch that I could use for those, I think. The switch is between the yellow and blue circles in the last picture.
Attachment 6410
I got the lights. I ordered a set of two with 1" clamps which by the way are also available in silver.
As the TB store says they have 1m of cable are otherwise as pictured. Their face is about the diameter of a racquet ball.
They seem to be very sturdy and I took them down to the batcave to test their fit. The 1" clamps fit perfectly on my crash bars. Right now I'm thinking of sticking them right in the upper outer corner bend on each side. This would also give me the angle I need to lean them further in or out, so spreading the beams horizontally while letting me adjust their height.
Depending on the beams spread and strength I'll adjust them to get good coverage of the ground 20 to 100 feet in front of the bike.
If I'm able to get a bracket made later to mount another set under the headlight I'll focus them ahead of the bike to compliment the headlight and I'll wire them to my second spare light switch.
Once I get them hooked up I'll post some pictures of the light shed by these little guys.
On that note, does anyone have an educated guess at where the best is place to connect them? I'm hoping that I can find a clean solution by rebuilding the connecter that the switch (maybe?) uses already splicing into the bundle that leaves the right cluster seems like it would be messy.
Sorry about the quality of the pictures, the batcave may be safe but it wants for lighting.
Attachment 6450Attachment 6451Attachment 6452Attachment 6453Attachment 6454