Bikerdocs' 650TR (CF650-2) review

Hi 650TR


see if you can find a flat surface and do i like for like shot of the back as in my back picture please then i can be sure

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Does anyone on here have CFMoto customer service contact details?

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we here only have contact details for China and the last time my wife talked to them when the bike was 2 days old with 50km on the clock and we told them about the water leak the custoner service person here in china told my wife its no big thing just take it in to a bike shop and "pay" and get it fixs ?? so in a word here in china we dont get customer service like you do in the uk

That is big money for the Alarm here in china get a good alarm and HID fitted for under £70 all in

It look like the money was not well spent you need to ask your self who is going to nick it heheh sorry mate i do have the same bike as well

you can't polish a turd

Hi Prince666

I have taken a better photo showing bike lean on side stand, if you look at the lines on the garage door it will provide a good indication of the amount of lean.

Hi 650TR Rider


Thank you for posting picture i will post a picture of my bike as well with yours so you can clearly see the diffance

Attachment 13725

My bike above

Attachment 13726


Your bike above

I have found it make it a lot easy now to get the bike up straight before moving of

It's obvious that 650TR riders TR has the same short side stand as the rest of us, aside from Prince666 and his stand-aid club foot. Hahahaha!. Though I am looking forward to getting the stand-aid soon. With the addition of the stand-aid I won't have to fumble any longer with a block of wood that I carry on the bike to put under the side stand.

On an entirely different note though, I've noticed that my 650TR is quite a thirsty machine, seemingly worse fuel economy than my AN650 executive which with an auto CVT and around 60-70kgs heavier (plus all the extra gear I have stashed under the seat), realistically the Burgy should have worse fuel economy than the TR. I'm suprised that this is not the case. I am pretty docile on the throttle with the TR and don't ride it as hard or as fast as the Burgy which is faster off the line than the TR and then some, so, all-in-all it somewhat surprises me. The TR does have a little more top end speed over the Burgy. The Burgy is way more comfortable on longer trips or just fanging round the local mountain tracks I ride frequently. The TR having bigger 17" front and rear wheels gives a more plush ride over bumps and road irregularities as compared with the Burgy's 15" front and 14" rear wheel combination. But the seat on the TR is an arse killer after a few hours in the saddle. That seat IMO needs a lot of work.

Contemplating fitting something like the SIGMA BC509 or similar.

Attachment 13727

Comes complete with a clock, speed, trip and other functions plus has a back light. The only issue will be wiring it up to the wheel since these type of units usually have the magnet fitted to bicycle spokes. Sure I can work it out though.

After a quick browse of Taobao this morning, found there are many different brands, models and price points. Hmmm, time for a lucky dip.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

Contemplating fitting something like the SIGMA BC509 or similar.

Attachment 13727

Comes complete with a clock, speed, trip and other functions plus has a back light. The only issue will be wiring it up to the wheel since these type of units usually have the magnet fitted to bicycle spokes. Sure I can work it out though.




After a quick browse of Taobao this morning, found there are many different brands, models and price points. Hmmm, time for a lucky dip.

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Hi Doc

Is it only a clock you need !! because give me a few hours and i will post some pictures of 2 LCD clock "batteries type" which i think will look ok Why do you need of the other stuff ! trip would be nice but that would need so type of sensor to be wired back to the unit sound like hard work to me . Now with the fuel .... with the 4 tanks i used when i run the bike in so at first not above 4k and then not above 6k the fuel consumption was good about 22km per L .Last night on the way back from Zimbo on the Expressway i gunned it for the last 160 km doing 160+ most of the time with a few times hitting 190+ the fuel consumption dropped down to 11km per L , so riding around town with some nice runs doing 120 KMH the consumption should be ok, with a range from the tank to be 300+ KM but if you gun it the bike drinks alot

I can confirm the bike is good for 200 KMH with the best i had last night was 210 KMH by way of the bike instrument reading only no GPS reading

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Originally Posted by prince666

Hi Doc

Is it only a clock you need !! because give me a few hours and i will post some pictures of 2 LCD clock "batteries type" which i think will look ok Why do you need of the other stuff ! trip would be nice but that would need so type of sensor to be wired back to the unit sound like hard work to me . Now with the fuel .... with the 4 tanks i used when i run the bike in so at first not above 4k and then not above 6k the fuel consumption was good about 22km per L .Last night on the way back from Zimbo on the Expressway i gunned it for the last 160 km doing 160+ most of the time with a few times hitting 190+ the fuel consumption dropped down to 11km per L , so riding around town with some nice runs doing 120 KMH the consumption should be ok, with a range from the tank to be 300+ KM but if you gun it the bike drinks alot

I can confirm the bike is good for 200 KMH with the best i had last night was 210 KMH by way of the bike instrument reading only no GPS reading

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Not just a clock. Actually the purpose is to be able to have some method other than relying on memory or pen & paper to note down mileage etc. Especially useful for fuel and distance calculation, so trip-meter/tripometer is what is really lacking. Clock is low down on the wants/needs totem pole actually.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

Not just a clock. Actually the purpose is to be able to have some method other than relying on memory or pen & paper to note down mileage etc. Especially useful for fuel and distance calculation, so trip-meter/tripometer is what is really lacking. Clock is low down on the wants/needs totem pole actually.

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I have just posted about the LCD clock just fitted to my TR here is the link :

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...3074#post63074

Just hope then Doc your good wife cooks your food when you get home mine has been cold lately Dam no clock ....

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Originally Posted by prince666

Hi 650TR Rider


Thank you for posting picture i will post a picture of my bike as well with yours so you can clearly see the diffance

Attachment 13725

My bike above

Attachment 13726


Your bike above

I have found it make it a lot easy now to get the bike up straight before moving of

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Think you should get the stand extension A.K.A
"Bigfoot" machined up and sell on internet.. ;)

Maybe CFMoto should be monitoring this site... for improvement ideas... but if what I am hearing from these sites is correct... CFMoto dont give a F**** if that is not correct... Would a representative of CFMoto please reply to the contrary :)

I could do with my side stand being longer too :)

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Originally Posted by prince666

Hi Doc

Is it only a clock you need !! because give me a few hours and i will post some pictures of 2 LCD clock "batteries type" which i think will look ok Why do you need of the other stuff ! trip would be nice but that would need so type of sensor to be wired back to the unit sound like hard work to me . Now with the fuel .... with the 4 tanks i used when i run the bike in so at first not above 4k and then not above 6k the fuel consumption was good about 22km per L .Last night on the way back from Zimbo on the Expressway i gunned it for the last 160 km doing 160+ most of the time with a few times hitting 190+ the fuel consumption dropped down to 11km per L , so riding around town with some nice runs doing 120 KMH the consumption should be ok, with a range from the tank to be 300+ KM but if you gun it the bike drinks alot

I can confirm the bike is good for 200 KMH with the best i had last night was 210 KMH by way of the bike instrument reading only no GPS reading

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On the fuel economy for me, there is a massive improvemwnt... but then again I did come down from Bandit 1250 SA ABS....I am doing same journey same speeds... with the bandit 1250 where I would fill up on a Monday morning and then again on the Thursday morning... now I filled up my first tankfull on a Monday morning and then it wasnt till the following Wednesday.. which onlt needed 12L so the was still around 5.5L in the tank... i could probably get away with only filling up every 9 days now.. but not hqving a low fuel warning makes me nervous. So I fill up sooner than I need to... anyway, everytime I have filled up the most that has gone into the tank is 12.9L and thats brimming it on ever fill up.

BTW this is the Bandit I px'd

This pic is when it was new though in 2009

2014 CF650NK and 650TR press release...

A few noticeable differences...

• continental tyres as standard
• tall screen for the TR
• redesigned dash seemingly including all the "should have included items I complained about in my review" clock, trip-meter etc.
• LEDs driving lights/indicator 'integrated' in the mirror pods
• Power/recharging plug for devices
• Altered brakes which MIGHT mean either linked brakes or ABS (unsure because the words used don't really detail enough about this feature).
• Front brakes using four piston callipers
• altered riding position which might mean redesigned handle bars
• 140mm/14cm ground clearance
• Dual headlight bulbs upgraded to dual 55w Halogen bulbs not 35w.
• KYB shock with adjustment

Pricing for the new bikes inside PRC have not been determined as of today (2013 Sept 16).

I do see from the pictures the bike still leans over to far ! but a good step forwards did you find out the RRP. For the new 2014

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

2014 CF650NK and 650TR press release...

A few noticeable differences...

• continental tyres as standard
• tall screen for the TR
• redesigned dash seemingly including all the "should have included items I complained about in my review" clock, trip-meter etc.
• LEDs driving lights/indicator 'integrated' in the mirror pods
• Power/recharging plug for devices
• Altered brakes which MIGHT mean either linked brakes or ABS (unsure because the words used don't really detail enough about this feature).
• Front brakes using four piston callipers
• altered riding position which might mean redesigned handle bars
• 140cm ground clearance
• Dual headlight bulbs upgraded to dual 55w Halogen bulbs not 35w.
• KYB shock with adjustment

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Hmmm seems as though I may consider upgrading to the 2014 model of the changes are significant and price has not been impacted. ..

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140cm ground clearance

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Thats some ground clearance 140 cm is about 4 feet 6 inches. we should now be abel to run over the E-Bikes now but will the bike come with steps sorry Doc not picking fault it should read 14cm or 140mm which is the same as the 2013 TR i think but a least your grammy is good ....

:riding::riding::riding:

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Originally Posted by prince666

Thats some ground clearance 140 cm is about 4 feet 6 inches. we should now be abel to run over the E-Bikes now but will the bike come with steps sorry Doc not picking fault it should read 14cm or 140mm which is the same as the 2013 TR i think but a least your grammy is good ....

:riding::riding::riding:

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Cheers for the heads up on the typo, subsequently amended.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

2014 CF650NK and 650TR press release...

A few noticeable differences...

• continental tyres as standard
• tall screen for the TR
• redesigned dash seemingly including all the "should have included items I complained about in my review" clock, trip-meter etc.
• LEDs driving lights/indicator 'integrated' in the mirror pods
• Power/recharging plug for devices
• Altered brakes which MIGHT mean either linked brakes or ABS (unsure because the words used don't really detail enough about this feature).
• Front brakes using four piston callipers
• altered riding position which might mean redesigned handle bars
• 140cm ground clearance
• Dual headlight bulbs upgraded to dual 55w Halogen bulbs not 35w.
• KYB shock with adjustment

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Hmmm seems as though I may consider upgrading to the 2014 model of the changes are significant and price has not been impacted. ..

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Hi 650TR Rider

Lets look at the new parts


1. Tyres... will fit better one when th OE are done for.
2. Taller screen got 1 on order ..
3. new dash ... fitted a clock looks ok would be nice to have the trip-meter
4. LED fitted better ones allready
5.power plug done and fitted
6. Doc not sure about if ABS could be nice to have
7. with the brakes i find them ok
8.Altered riding position which might mean redesigned handle bars need to find out more about this i think it could be just a spacers under the OE bars if so will be cheap to do
9.140mm same as the 2012 TR
10. Fitted HID which are better than 55w Halogen bulbs
11 KYB shocks i am sure the 2013 TR comes with KYB shocks

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In fact it is a stable bike in almost all scenarios and cruises happily at and above motorway speeds without any weaves or wobbles. Although almost all this 650 twin is made is China, the suspension is not. It’s quality German KYB kit, from Düsseldorf and it shows

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From review here.....http://overlandmag.com/features/cf-moto-wk650tr-review/
so all the new mods for the 2014 TR most can be done with your 2013 TR at a small cost that my 2 cents

Update.

Have had to replace the clutch cable due to the original one breaking down near the clutch housing arm linkage mechanism. Was riding along having just exited one of my favourite mountains. Stopped at a cross road intersection, turned right to make my way towards DongQian Lake, whilst 'changing up' and as I let the clutch lever out I felt a little give in the lever, not much but enough to know "this 'aint normal". Kept riding while at the same time, engaging and releasing the clutch lever multiple times. Each time less resistance was felt in the lever, and twisting the throttle only bought about an increase in forward momentum. Sure enough clutch cable had snapped. Found that the cable was still attached at the handlebar/lever end, so it was snapped some-place else along its length.

Rode the other 40km home, mainly through mountains so the need for clutch use was minimal and changing gears without a clutch is easy. This 'aint my first rodeo.

Fortunately getting to my residence was pretty easy, as I live in a small town (would have been a hassle in the big smoke e.g. SH, BJ, SZ etc.). With only half-a-dozen sets of traffic lights, I selected a route that would put me in a position where I could approach traffic lights slowly or as needed make free right turns, followed by a U-turn then another right turn, depending on the signal phases. Only one set of traffic lights scuttled my plans, meaning I had to stop, as it's a major arterial roadway/highway so phases are long and drawn out and with a major median strip, not possible to make a free right turn followed by a U-turn etc. No worries, hit the kill switch as I came to a stop, selected neutral, got off the TR, pushed across on the pedestrian crossing. Good thing it was night, so I didn't look like a complete oddity. Once on the other-side of the intersection, turned ignition on, ran alongside the bike, got up to a fair speed, jumped on the seat, crashed into gear and rode off. A minute later, I was back at home pulling up outside my garage. Put bike away.

Ironically, another MCM member (Prince666) had just had his TR clutch cable snap a few days prior. We had chatted about it at the time. Both bikes have done around 5000km and as it transpires, both clutch cables have snapped at the same location.

Had already ordered new cables, as at the time only one clutch cable was needed for Prince666. At the time my cable was still good, but I'd ordered two cables, just in case. Luckily as it turns out.

Called my CFMoto contact, Mr Lan, who is very interested to receive both cables, which I will be forwarding to him tomorrow (Monday).

Spent time yesterday fitting the new replacement clutch cable. Removed the RHS midsection fairing (tupperware), RHS fake frame cover and other associated bits and pieces. Had to remove and un-clip several metal and plastic retaining clips too. The plastic one's need a little bit of finesse to get undone. With cable released and free to move, disconnected from the lever, it was time to consider removal, but not before...
Connecting the old cable to the replacement, using tape (duct or insulation tape) securely applying tape to the top end of the replacement cable to the bottom end of the old cable, and making sure both were secure, slowly pulled the cables through. Once new cable was in place, removed the tape holding the two cables together. Checked the routing and lay of the cable etc.

Set about connecting the cable down at the clutch housing arm linkage end first. Removed the little cylindrical nipple and the small 5-10mm section of wire (cable had snapped around 5-10mm up from lower nipple) from the clutch housing arm linkage, then inserted the new cable end, then connected the handlebar/clutch lever end. Checked and adjusted for operation. Reattached the clips and what have you.

Checked clutch operation and adjusted cable. Felt a whole lot better in operation, very smooth and not nearly as notchy.

A couple of observations. The old cable and new cable look to be the same design. No perceivable differences. The operation of the clutch had become increasingly more notchy when attempting to find neutral while at a stand still with engine running. This was something I and the other MCM member had discussed as both of us had noted this. The location where both cables have snapped is about the same location. My cable did not show any evidence of fraying, the snap seemed very clean.

Will be interesting to see what comes back from CFMoto on this one.

As a side note, Buck & Amy from the Great Ride of China (note the comments section) have covered ~25,000km without any clutch cable issues.

Photos to come...

Hi Doc

Just fitted my clutch cable and like you i have found the gears are a lot smoother and can find "N" first time now, but i can't see why or how the new cable looks the same as the old one. just hope it last longer, time will tell.

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Originally Posted by prince666

Hi Doc

Just fitted my clutch cable and like you i have found the gears are a lot smoother and can find "N" first time now, but i can't see why or how the new cable looks the same as the old one. just hope it last longer, time will tell.

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Just thought. Maybe they have changed the quality of the steel the cable is made from... could be previous quality stretched as lever was pulled thereby not fully engaging the clutch mechanism? Which may have caused metal fatigue and the cable to eventually fail?

They may have changed the cable composition in later models.

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Originally Posted by 650TR Rider

Just thought. Maybe they have changed the quality of the steel the cable is made from... could be previous quality stretched as lever was pulled thereby not fully engaging the clutch mechanism? Which may have caused metal fatigue and the cable to eventually fail?

They may have changed the cable composition in later models.

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True, here's hoping!

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

True, here's hoping!

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I have not suffer of cable complete failure (as I have for throttle and throttle return cables! :taz: )
But lately my clutch did come little stiff and weird and pulling clutch could head few "clicks" from lever but that might just need more grease, it was ok one moment and other really stiff,
As yesterday i dismantle whole top section of the bike, I decided why not change it now as everything is off anyway.
After that clutch felt so much better, no more clicks from the lever still might pull it off and grease it just to be sure. my bike has about 8000km

Given the sad record on these clutch cables, you TR owners may want to try something that's de rigeur among us KLRistas: threading a backup clutch cable through the bike right alongside the one that's in service. When the one snaps, it's a 20-minute job to swap in the backup, assuming you've got the spanners required. I'm thinking about doing this for Merkin Muffley; though I've had no issues with my cable, other Jialing owners have.

cheers
euphonius

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Originally Posted by euphonius

Given the sad record on these clutch cables, you TR owners may want to try something that's de rigeur among us KLRistas: threading a backup clutch cable through the bike right alongside the one that's in service. When the one snaps, it's a 20-minute job to swap in the backup, assuming you've got the spanners required. I'm thinking about doing this for Merkin Muffley; though I've had no issues with my cable, other Jialing owners have.

cheers
euphonius

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Or instead having extra cable next to other people should maybe carry extra inner cable and one of these locks.. Attachment 14572
Not sure can these last in the clutch use but in throttle use they do work.

Attachment 14595

The top clutch cable is off my 650TR with the small dust cover removed so as to expose the bare cable, while the lower one is off Prince666's TR. Seems that the cable snapped at the small cylindrical tip on the lower cable.

Attachment 14596

Attachment 14597

Fairly clean break. No real fraying of the cable, aside from when I was moving the broken cable end inside the rubber dust cover (removed), catching the broken cable end in the side of the cover once or twice.

Attachment 14598

The length of the lower cable seems to indicate that the snapping occured at the cylinder. Cable may have even pulled out of the cylinder.

Both cables have been sent back to CFMoto at the companies request. Awaiting a response in due course.

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Originally Posted by Wald0

Or instead having extra cable next to other people should maybe carry extra inner cable and one of these locks..

Attachment 14572

Not sure can these last in the clutch use but in throttle use they do work.

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Great idea... have to see if these or similar could be located on Taobao

A number of upgrades and improvements for the 2014 CF650TR/TK.

- upgraded dash display incorporating tripometer & clock (to fit to older model requires new wiring loom aside from replacement dash)
- longer side stand (still no centre stand)
- continental tyres fitted OEM (gone are the CST tyres)
- panniers incorporate additional mechanical locking closures on each end
- engine finished in black (engine may run hotter?)
- taller screen (additional 40mm taller over OEM, though no 'upward flick' at the top)
- steel braided brake lines (still no ABS)
- better fit of the two cubby (storage bin) lids up front (RHS lid closure fits better)
- addition of powered accessory plug on LHS fairing (interesting placement as any device will need a long cable)

- ABS added since final quarter 2014 (2015 model)

Attachment 15586

Still no gear indicators which is a shame
IMO

A gear position indicator would be nice. So does an ambient temperature gauge.