Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

Chongqing Zongshen is the OEM for Dong Fang's engines according to the EPA certification list for 2016 (the 2017 list has not been updated, and will probably be updated over the next several months if Dongfang decides to bring in 2017's) which was the last time Dong Fang sent a list of bikes to certify. You should be able to find a Zongshen branded engine easier than Dong Fang, and it might simply be imported as a replacement engine vs. a cannibalized bike used for warranty/parts (theorizing the source of your ebay engine, Bowtie). I would guess that a Lifan crate engine should work, but I would suggest to find a Zongshen crate engine first, if you can. But, again, according to the 2016 certification, Dong Fangs lists their sports bike, bobbers, and enduros (something like 6 or 7 bikes) under the same certification, so the sport bike engine shouldn't have been different than a bobber. Your guess is as good as mine (yours is much better since you have both bike and replacement engine :lol8:)

wow.Thank you so much.That is the MOST information I have seen or heard of yet.
Trouble I am having is that I noticed that the 167FMM-M motor seems to have a balanced lower end, at least that is something I had noticed on China riders forum. I fear that this motor, although Dong Fang may not. The vibration at around 45 to 50 drives me nuts. That's the reason behind looking for a replacement. Plus. I had to fabricate front motor mounts to affix to it. Where as the over all length for this replacement was shorter than the stock motor.
I honestly wish there was a way for me to have the transmission rebuilt on the old motor so i can just reuse it. I have to look into that as well. I see plenty of parts out there, but not sure if they would work, and who I could send it to to be repaired.

I truly appreciate the information. I will keep searching. in fact since I have read this, I have been. But still cannot seem to locate a dealer to sell me just a Zongshen motor either.

Looking on the certification list--for 2016, Dong Fang's engine is 223cc and the model number of the engine is 165FMM as opposed to 167FMM. Near Dong Fang's certification, there are several certifications for CCW's various bikes--their engine OEM is Lifan, and the engines' model numbers are all 167FMM-M. I do believe that Lifan and Zongshen use the same-ish model numbers for their engines.

Could you use the transmission bits from your mail-order engine for your old engine?

I am not sure how it is done, and actually am intimidated by it, but several US based members on chinariders have reported using Taobao successfully to order parts. If you can figure it out (I guess you go through an agent who speaks English) this might be the way to go for your engine.

culcune,
Very good info you posted. So the 167rmm engine for the 2010 and 2012 DF is a Lifan?
Still enjoy riding mine but the Ural gets ridden the most.

Attachment 19115
Thanks

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Originally Posted by barnone

culcune,
Very good info you posted. So the 167rmm engine for the 2010 and 2012 DF is a Lifan?
Still enjoy riding mine but the Ural gets ridden the most.

Attachment 19115
Thanks

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I found the certification list from both 2010 and 2012; both are vague in stating that Dongfang is the engine's manufacturer. They use the full Chinese name 'Chongqing Dongfang......' As an example, TMEC currently state themself as their engine manufacturer for their 200cc enduro, but the real OEM is Zongshen. I would guess that Zongshen was the OEM back then, rather than Lifan, but I could be wrong. Today, (technically 2016--no Dongfangs on the 2017 list as of yet) it does list Zongshen as their engine's OEM.

250cc engine, Lifan 250CC air cooled motorcycle engine with balance shaft

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250cc-engine...3D252652024047

From China so make sure it has a EPA certificate.
Seller 100% Positive feedback


Attachment 19153

Another one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250cc-engine...3D262872317911

Got this message
"Hey man, How are you?
I just saw your post about the bike you bought in 2012.
I have the same bike and love it. Hope you are enjoying it.
The reason I'm writing you is that my bike got stolen and recovered by police a couple of months ago but it's a mess. I'm trying to fix it as much as I can but I'm lacking knowledge and I have no owner's manual that's what I want to you ask. Do you have one? I found the parts description on Dongfang website but no manual.
Please let me know if you have it and how to get one please.
Really appreciate.

Regards,"
Does anyone have a spare owner's manual for the 2012 DF250RTB?

So anyone familiar with my work on the 167fmm might know that one of the extreme modifications was a head deck of 35mill, for an increased CR of 10:1
Actually it was 2 decks of 20 for 9.5 then another 15mill for the 10 CR, which resulted in a limited but very proportional bump in power.

But at 1000 miles this experiment has concluded with a burnt up exhaust valve:

Attachment 19160


Burnt up valves can be caused by a number of reasons but Occam's razor makes me conclude it was the compression and heat that comes with it.
It slowly reduced in diameter as it rotated around which i could notice towards the end when i had to consistently adjust the intake valve lash, i needed to raise the lash screw as the value keep closing deeper into the valve seat... Finally total failure a total loss of compression as the larger pit built up.

I also noticed that the valve seal had slipped off, would hate for such a small thing to have been the cause of the failure, but I'm dismissing this as speculation as i didn't notice much smoke or oil consumption

Fortunately I knew this was a risky proposition and bought out a few heads real cheap on clearance... ill paint a new head and throw it in.

Thing is with the deck i could easily maintain the modest state speed limit of 55 on a long incline to work each day, where without i recall falling to say 45mph or so holding up traffic.

Perhaps things would be fine if i stopped at 20 mill for 9.5... but Ive sort of grown out of and moved on to bigger and better hobbies...
we'll see...

being an amateur at this, I must ask. If you just replace/install a new head back to an original you should be able to fix the issue and still ride? I am not one for knowing or wanting to do so much custom work, that is why I ask.

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

being an amateur at this, I must ask. If you just replace/install a new head back to an original you should be able to fix the issue and still ride? I am not one for knowing or wanting to do so much custom work, that is why I ask.

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ya, i could and expect that replacing with one of my other, NON modified heads, will be just fine...

i suppose if i really wanted i could use the same head and keep replacing the exhaust valve... and just deal with a 1000 mile service life...
I mean there are few ways to try and deal with this if i really wanted to... such as get better a better conducting alloy valve, and or valve with thicker stems to conduct heat away from the valve head...

buy ya ill likely just paint and new head and mount it as is...

Attachment 19182

Had a nice ride out to the ranch on the DF to do a little exotic vegetation work. She is running just fine, knock on wood.

I like the 50cal ammo cans, nice.

Hello All,

Has anyone replaced their stator yet? I saw awhile back someone was able to fix theirs, but I'm looking to purchase an actual replacement. No luck using DF's part number. My bike isn't charging and I replaced the entire wire harness in the bike with a new one. I cant figure out the turn signals wires because they were originally removed, and tail light either but that's an entirely different issue.

Any help would be appreciated,
Raider1911

Have you looked here? Vento vthunder colt 2V49FMM

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Originally Posted by Raider1911

Hello All,

Has anyone replaced their stator yet? I saw awhile back someone was able to fix theirs, but I'm looking to purchase an actual replacement. No luck using DF's part number. My bike isn't charging and I replaced the entire wire harness in the bike with a new one. I cant figure out the turn signals wires because they were originally removed, and tail light either but that's an entirely different issue.

Any help would be appreciated,
Raider1911

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that was me who repaired the stator.

before you throw any more money at it, unless that's the kind of thing you like to do, if advise you to take the stator out and check it.
if there's an open circuit you can find and maybe fix it as I had, but if it's a short, it'll be allot harder..
in anticipation, I bought a spool of 16 huge magnet, epoxy shielded, wire, and was going to rewind.
it's a simple test with a basic multi meter, you only need the resistance or conductivity function.

I did find a replacement on eBay, I forget the number of poles, 11 or 12, but you won't find many available and it's not as cheap as the other one...
so why not check it first.

also influencing the charge are a separate regulator and separate rectifier on the bike, I'm not sure exactly why as the regulator is described to have a rectifier, but anyway start with the stator.

After adjustment.

Attachment 19256




Attachment 19257

The pointer show that the alignment marks are off two marks.

Attachment 19258

She is running just fine and ready to get trailer-ed along with the other bikes to the mountains of Western North Carolina for the summer.

That's how I align all my chains. :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by axa

that was me who repaired the stator.

before you throw any more money at it, unless that's the kind of thing you like to do, if advise you to take the stator out and check it.
if there's an open circuit you can find and maybe fix it as I had, but if it's a short, it'll be allot harder..
in anticipation, I bought a spool of 16 huge magnet, epoxy shielded, wire, and was going to rewind.
it's a simple test with a basic multi meter, you only need the resistance or conductivity function.

I did find a replacement on eBay, I forget the number of poles, 11 or 12, but you won't find many available and it's not as cheap as the other one...
so why not check it first.

also influencing the charge are a separate regulator and separate rectifier on the bike, I'm not sure exactly why as the regulator is described to have a rectifier, but anyway start with the stator.

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I wanted to take a moment and thank you for your reply. A friend with a lot more knowledge than me came to help diagnose the bike. Using his voltmeter like you suggested he was actually able to determine that the stator was functioning correctly, and the rectifier wasn't. The black box with heatsinks. We found a unit on Ebay with the same wire colors, and plugs for about $13. The rectangle rectifier diode we already replaced a few weeks ago, hoping after this unit we're in good shape. All of the grounds on the bike have voltage and it has put us at a standstill getting this bike road ready again. The bike sat for half a year in the AZ sun, it raised havoc on the bike's wiring. After this part all of the electrical components have been completely replaced besides the wiring from the switch controls on the bars.

If anyone ever needs a complete wiring harness, this was a legit source.
http://parts.powersportsbest.com/ind.../df250rtb.html

Thank you again.
Raider

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Originally Posted by ben2go

That's how I align all my chains. :thumbsup:

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how do you guys know that tool is parallel to begin with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by axa

how do you guys know that tool is parallel to begin with.

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Use a machinist square to check the block and the rod. I do it every time I drop mine or when it's been rolling around in my tool box.

whats up guys. Hope all is well around you. Not around me. Had a small incident today. Bumped this guy in front of me, no damage to his car.. but I bent my forks in a bit. very noticeable. I rode her home, but they need to be fixed. Any suggestions as to where to get a new set. It is just the to rods that I guess are part of the shock system. They bent under the lower part of the tree. Both sides pretty evenly. Broke my heart man. All my fault. Thought the guy turned, was watching on coming traffic, saw a chance to go... but he never moved. Barely bumped him.Put me down. He had not a scratch on his car thankfully. I have bent forks. heartbroken man... just heartbroken. I need to fix this, but honestly am not real sure where to purchase anything for it. Been looking on ebay, and see a lot of older used forks and stuff. Just not sure which is the best fix. Hopefully you gurus can help me out. She has 25,560 miles on her, and I want her to go further. So my question is really, since the lower part of them ( the black painted parts ) seems to be fine, can I just replace the chrome rods? How do I measure them.. with the bike off the ground? Since they are metric, would the circumference be the for all bikes? Like to fit inside the lower painted parts. Sorry my terminology is so off.. I hope you can understand me. I see kits here and there for Hondas and Yamahas and such, but not sure which would work.
Attachment 19268Attachment 19269Attachment 19270

You bent the stanchions. There maybe parts on Taobao, aliexpress, or banggood. Possibly entire front ends. You may need springs and damper rods as well.

Very cool I will check them out. Thanks for the correct name of the parts as well.

So I gather that these are all standard sizes and will just fit? Or do I need specific diameters?
I figure on just replacing the stanchions. So I know the lower end still works for the caliper

You're welcome.

You will need to know the diameter of the fork stanchions. They are more than likely 33mm, but double check. You may also need the length of them as well. That will require the forks to be disassembled. It may not be possible to disassemble them if the damper rods are below the bend in the stanchions.

http://www.microsofttranslator.com/b...thorid%3D75082

is the measurement of 33mm outside or inside? just double checking.

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Originally Posted by humanbeing

http://www.microsofttranslator.com/b...thorid%3D75082

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Thats pretty wild. I do not have a set up like that, but good to know.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bowtiewagon

is the measurement of 33mm outside or inside? just double checking.

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Outside

google "straightening bent fork tubes" to get an idea how you might starighten them. Some say a machine shop can straighten the tubes.

Another maybe crazy idea since it seems both tubes appear to be bent the same. Loogen the triple tree bolts and rotate the tubes so the bend is to the front. You would get more rake. Maybe too crazy.

I read where the tubes are 41mm. I can measure mine in the morning.