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I weigh a buck fifty but im 6 ft 1in. As far as i know we have no issue with reg in mo bc there are some local scooter shops with the df in stpck sat pn one earlier today and didt feel too small but drag bars are gpnna be mustQuote:
Originally Posted by barnone
if itll do 80 with an average size man on it I do believe its more hastle than its worth to up engine it , if you need a bike to do 100 you need a bigger bikeQuote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
Main Headlamp low or high beam not working, can get passing high to impulse . Small 'parking' lamp works. With the TANK OFF how can I 'lamp test' lines thru the system if the low & high beams only operate with the motor running?
{Bulbs good}
By the way just got the Lithium battery in, when I picked up the box, I thought they shipped paper only. Unbelievably light! Need to figure out best position in battery box ( allot smaller too)
There is a wiring schematic in the owner's manual that is kinda right. Did you say the blue/white wires under the tank were connected? Was the headlight working before you changed the handle bars? If so then I would check the wiring and switch at the handle bars.
Important note to new bike owners. (Not just Chinese bikes but all bikes)
PUT THE BIKE TOGETHER AS DELIVERED, RIDE IT FOR A WHILE, AND CHECK IT OUT COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING MODIFICATIONS.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WORKS.
DON'T OVER TORQUE FASTENERS.
DO ONE MOD AT A TIME. CHECK YOUR WORK BEFORE CONTINUING.
Several people here have made a lot of mods without even riding the bike as stock and the mods had to be backed off in order to trouble shoot the problems. This happened big time to a guy with a Qlink XF200 and he started bad mouthing the bike immediately. All the problems were user caused.
You gonna order from your local dealer? IF so post their website and let us know the results of the transaction.Quote:
Originally Posted by mo bobber
Take your time on the mods.
Using Diagram, checked that left switch first, yes Blue / White at junction checked-ok (but intend to check it's route next)
How do you test High/Low lines with the tank off, if they require engine on?
No mods made until break in completed, each mod test driven before next. Regretfully wasn't paying attention to headlamp. I will be checking CDI connections in container & ignition switch connections (moved to removed EPA air system bracket) as well.
I dont even know if they have a website i know they are pretty small they only have the one df and like 5 scooters ill look into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
As far as mods the majority will be cismetic except for rear sprocket and drag bars im buyin this bike because its aimple rather than bobbing out a different bike. Man i love the support you guys give. Really i haven't been flamed once lol
Check out and ride the bike before you change the rear sprocket and the handlebars. Check all the lights, controls, engine response, brakes, shifting,etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by mo bobber
Will do 'none. Ill atleast finish my break in before i do any modifications
Searching for my headlamp problem, I ran into this mystery component, green line connected behind and an open tab with nothing connected. Right side of photo is a blue/white and a yellow going into a connection but other side nothing. The mystery component is under the left side of your tank, can any one see what wires are connected to yours
Any ideas?Attachment 5676
Mo bobber... What part of mo you in? I'm in joplin myself and was wanting to see a DF in person hopefully youre not to
Far from me...
Im just about 45 minutes east of joplin on 44 im in springfield
Which shop in springfield carries it? I just wanna look. I promise I want buy it from under you.
Haha no worries tumtoe its a little shop on glendstone at grand. I can remember the name ill drive by and look in the nexr few days. Itll be another month or two before i get one. Just wanna be an educated consumer :-) by all means buy it if you like it.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/IMG_0951.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/IMG_0953.jpg
Bad photo but I removed the box and saw a red wire and two green wires attached.
It's a diode bridge circuit that converts ac to dc and in that application is called a bridge rectifier. I'll call it a black box.
The label on my black box is faded but I think the manufacture is ZINZEN. Can you read yours?
You might have to remove the black box to see the wires.
It's 40 amp and 1600 volt so it can handle a lot of juice.
BTW, My head light is working with the engine off and the illuminating switch to the headlight position(all the way to the left)
When you swapped out the handle bars did you take the illuminating switch apart? That feeds the headlight.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/IMG_0952.jpg
This photo shows the Blue/White wire connection that I had somehow pulled part perhaps when I removed the tank.
Barnone, thank you you have gone to allot of trouble, to answer.
Behind the black box, you found two green (right side?) & one red (left) I need to find that red lead ( I haven't cut the holding ties yet)
Will open both & look.
Regarding Blue/white & yellow (my picture) with no wire connected other end, what was yours connected to?
Wait look at your first photo, same as mine (just above the tie rod) it's the same, dead ends, other end heat wrapped & no further wiring, right?
I have not disassembled Illuminating switch other than screws to open for new bars. Tempted due to diagram showing allot of related wires to my issue. I've been concentrating on left Dimmer.
Plenty of time on my hands since it's raining here so no riding today and gonna get cold with a freeze forecast. We are heading to Florida next Saturday or Sunday.
The red and the two green wires come out of the same bundle so should be easy to find the red.
Two green left side and red right rear. Nothing on the other lug.
Barnone, my wires on the black box are reverse, red & open lug forward, 2 greens rear.
Xinzen MDQ40 /1600V on the cover with a wire diagram
If your red was rear was the open/unused lug as well (rear) ?Attachment 5678
The red was rear next to the open lug. Looks like yours is wired the same as mine and the box just turned over. The two greens are definitely the same as mine. This bridge rectifier should have nothing to do with the head light.
How difficult would it be to return the wiring on the headlight circuit to its original "world market" configuration? It seems like a well intentioned bad idea for the headlight to stay on when the engine is running. I would like to be able to use the switch as it was designed. Also, are the turn signal lights ONLY turn signals? Are they not marker lights as well? When my DF is running the headlight is on and the tail light is on but the turn/marker? lights are off. The turn signals work fine and there are only 2 wires but I have seen lights that ground directly to the chassis thus eliminating the ground wire leaving the turn and marker wires.... tumtoe and mo bobber , welcome.
OH.... what does the bridge rectifier do? Just curious....
Hey, barnone, I really wish I could follow you to Florida. We normally go this time of year, but circumstances currently do not allow it. When you get there , find a nice sunny spot by the ocean and drink a tall cool one for me. If you go far enough south, check out Benny's on the Beach at the Lake Worth Pier...
[QUOTE=barnone;35592]
My head light is working with the engine off and the illuminating switch to the headlight position(all the way to the left)
This should allow me to start testing with a 12volt lamp with the tank off.
Visual of Illuminating switch under white interior cover looks fine.
I found if you copy Manual's wire diagram at 150%, it fits a 8x10 page. Easier to see & can make notes without messing up the original.
Thanks again for the help & photos.
bobber250,
We spend the winter at our home in Fort Myers,FL. Bike riding sucks because of the lack of curves and elevation changes but the weather is nice.
Good explanation of the diode bridge function at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge
My illumination switch as it is called on the wiring diagram is working almost in the "world market" configuration. My headlight is off with the switch in the two right most positions which I will call off and running light (small bulb) and on in the left most position. The only thing incorrect is the running light is on in the off position. I'm not sure how I "fixed" the switch but will spend some time trying to figure out how DF changed the electrical system to have the headlight on all the time.
GUN ROD,
Could you post your enlarged wiring diagram here or email it to me at skeekahcove@gmail.com so I can print it off. My scanner is not working and a larger copy would make trouble shooting easier as you stated. Plus we need to correct the wiring diagram.
Thanks,
Rectifier takes ac current from the stator and rectifies it into DC current.Depending on the input(AC) voltage to the rectifier,it may need the output(DC) voltage regulated to a steady 13-15 volts for charging a battery.To keep things cheap,the DF uses a bridge diode or bridge rectifier.There are cheap ones available at Radio Shack for just a few dollars.I will post a link to that upgrade.It's based on Honda singles but will work on the DF.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobber250
The signal lights on all most all Chinese and Japanese bikes are turn signal only and no running lights are used.This is done to cut cost to keep bikes cheap, by reducing charging and battery requirements.Therefore a simple cheap charging system can be used.I've never owned a bike that had running lights.All of mine had head,tail,and signal lisght,unless I added them.Running lights would be nice but would kill the charging and electrical system,unless LED lights are used all around.
Honda/DF cheap rectifier upgrade.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index....68639#msg68639
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=8027.0
I don't think the rectifier needs to be changed. If it ain't broke then don't fix it.
Agreed.It shouldn't have an effect on the light except for causing it to go dim if the rectifier isn't working properly.I posted that info mostly for future reference.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Attachment 5679Attachment 5680Attachment 5681
Found my headlamp issue.
First photo Blue/Yellow from left controls (really blue/white) was connected to a deep green line to the diode bridge (extra rectifier?) (photo 2). With power on (key on) blue/white to dark green dead. Blue/Yellow on right Illuminating switch (blue/white actually) showing power but connection housing under tank was not to be found.
Found it dead ended in the wrap half way between illuminating switch and connection housing . Disconnected the dark green from the blue/white and connected the two blue/whites together (photo 3). BINGO, headlamps ON, dimable left switch & able to turn off right switch! I'm going to wrap dark green end & take a ride after I put this mess together.
I never did have headlamps. The harley guy (earlier thread) that yelled over to me that my light was dim, I thought was the height adjustment of my lamp. Safety checks during break in failed to see the big bulb not working.
... so , all we have to do is find the blue/white wire connected to the dark green wire , disconnect those and find the other matching blue/white wire and connect the two blue/whites together to return functionality to the headlight switch on the right handlebar?
they just cut out or bypassed the headlight switch, the green wire goes hot when you start the motor?...if so I would bet if it was followed to its other end you will find a relay of some sort. Thanks GUN ROD, I think you have answered my question from earlier. It may also be that you have a bad connection at the suspected relay on the other end of the green wire or possibly a faulty relay which would explain the non functional headlight. Well more likely a bad connection since it would illuminate by depressing the passing switch. Its a moot point anyway since you got the headlight working.... it all kind of makes sense to me but what the heck ... its 3 a.m. and I don't have any coffee... soooo, I may have just passed the bounds of stupidity and wont realize it until I re-read this post tomorrow.
The Chinese would not have redesigned the lighting circuit to comply with U.S. regulations, simply cut the wire from the switch and run it to the headlight ....
Thank you GUN ROD I am going to go hunting blue/white wires tomorrow.
I asked if the BW/BW under the tank were connected back in post 1294.
" Did you say the blue/white wires under the tank were connected? "
I even posted a photo of the connection.
I guess I didn't explain it good enough.
Anyway, glad that you fixed the problem.