2010 CFMoto Jetmax 250 Scooter

It was these videos that put me onto that particular light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yetGKStxbFA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fyz8Hqt2oLY

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

Front shocks crashing on occasion is a bit of a concern, but google shows that many bikes of many brands have similar issues so I guess its something i'll live with unless anyone has suggestions?

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I had grown to live with this but today I am concerned no more.
The brake hose on the left side has a metal spiral, spring type cover on it
When I hit a sharp bump like a driveway edge it bangs into the mudguard and there are now several small grooves in the plastic from repeated hits making it easy to identify.

I got a bit of the material below, split it and wrapped the brake hose and put a couple of electrical ties on it and that's it, all gone.
http://www.bunnings.com.au/k-flex-9-...tion-_p4920091

Incidentally, I have been using the above product as a poor mans "pussy grip" getting several sets for less than $4.
They have talcum powder on them so they slide over the originals easily enough.
Carpal tunnel when riding is gone and when I start to get the tingles after a few months its a 1 minute job to put on another set.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

I think it's related to an after market muffler I've fitted bought via taobao for cny100 which also backfires through the exhaust a lot on deceleration (indicating that fuel/air mix is running to lean - which given fuel injection and ECU management I'm not worried about playing around with). The muffler is louder and thus provides less back pressure, and since I doubt that there's any decent motorcycles mechanics with a dyno-jet or the like to calibrate the new muffler to air/fuel mixture and the EFI wizardry -it's a no brainer.
Am looking to have a better after market exhaust fitted, perhaps a Lazer muffler for a Tmax, though if the gains are not worth it, I might just go back to the standard muffler.

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Hi, is it worth doing anything with the standard exhaust?

Aftermarket in Australia is not justified but I have seen some claiming drilling several extra holes in the back face, I guess to bring the 38mm in to around 38mm out Vs the current 16mm pipe to be of benefit to both performance and note.

I have seen no real evidence of this making a difference to performance and, if I needed to throw money at "tuning" I wouldn't be bothered.
Thoughts?

After experimenting with a couple after-market mufflers, and tending to find that on deceleration just as the scoot was coming to a stop (low rev's) with 'popping' (like little backfiring - just not anywhere near as loud) at the muffler. I decided to just go back to the standard muffler. Before I did swap back to the OEM muffler though I had a local certified CFMoto mechanic (his own workshop, no MC sales) plug in the computer module to the ECU/ECM to attempt to change parameters etc to try and stop the 'popping' - without success. Actually some of what the mechanic attempted I wasn't happy with (TIC LFZ!) but I won't go into that, as most other times the mechanic provided pretty good work for TIC. Unfortunately he eventually closed up shop and moved to a South East Asian country and is employed building car engines - if what he says is to be believed (TIC...).

I'd imagine that in different circumstances/location (e.g. a developed country) one could more easily find/seek out a custom made muffler etc. likely resulting in better results than my attempt. Though unsure if the ECU/ECM might need recalibrating. On my CF650TR the IXIL muffler (can) I fitted has worked flawlessly with the bike running fine. No 'popping' or such like, never touched the ECU/ECM.

Question is, is it worth it? Sometimes straying too far from 'standard' has its own pitfalls/limitations too.

YMMV.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

I'd imagine that in different circumstances/location (e.g. a developed country) one could more easily find/seek out a custom made muffler etc. likely resulting in better results than my attempt.

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Looking at some of the coinage being asked for a bike exhausts, let alone custom, it'd probably be cheaper to sell the jetmax and buy a 650 burgman with similar klms

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Question is, is it worth it?

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Not if those are the only options, happy to stick with what it has.

Thanks for the reply

No worries with the reply. As for the Burgy 650, I have owned three. NZ K4 model executive (sold) & bought a L4 in NZ, and still have a K7 here in PRC. No comparison between the AN650's and the Jetmax, I'd go with the 650.

IMO the Jetmax is okay, better than the average scoot from a local manufacturer here in PRC at the time when first released, and likely still holds its own compared with many of the locally made scoots today, however IMO it's not fully comparable to a Japanese 250cc scoot from any of the big 4. It's obvious that the Jetmax and even the more luxurious Jetlux is manufactured to a lower price point.
Chalk & cheese as is said.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

however IMO it's not fully comparable to a Japanese 250cc scoot from any of the big 4. It's obvious that the Jetmax and even the more luxurious Jetlax is manufactured to a lower price point.
Chalk & cheese as is said.

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See, I disagree there.
Before I bought mine I rode various bikes in the same dollar range, so second hand and aging Yamaha Majesty, Honda Forza, various Sym's a 400 burgman and a Tmax 500 and while some had more top end I think the Jetmax was equal or even better up to about 80kph, it felt better with the bigger tyres than most, fitted me better being a large wheelbase and low seat cruiser style and was a whole lot cheaper.
Plus it was new and shiney with 2 years of warranty.

Of course if you are comparing a new $12,000+ Jap bike to a $4000 jetmax and weren't paying for it I would go the Jap bike every day of the week

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

See, I disagree there.
Before I bought mine I rode various bikes in the same dollar range, so second hand and aging Yamaha Majesty, Honda Forza, various Sym's a 400 burgman and a Tmax 500 and while some had more top end I think the Jetmax was equal or even better up to about 80kph, it felt better with the bigger tyres than most, fitted me better being a large wheelbase and low seat cruiser style and was a whole lot cheaper.
Plus it was new and shiney with 2 years of warranty.

Of course if you are comparing a new $12,000+ Jap bike to a $4000 jetmax and weren't paying for it I would go the Jap bike every day of the week

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You pay for what you get. Most of the time, the cheaper one can do about 80+ % of what the Japanese or European scooters can do at half or one third the price. So it is up to you if you think if it is value for money.

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

See, I disagree there.
Before I bought mine I rode various bikes in the same dollar range, so second hand and aging Yamaha Majesty, Honda Forza, various Sym's a 400 burgman and a Tmax 500 and while some had more top end I think the Jetmax was equal or even better up to about 80kph, it felt better with the bigger tyres than most, fitted me better being a large wheelbase and low seat cruiser style and was a whole lot cheaper.
Plus it was new and shiney with 2 years of warranty.

Of course if you are comparing a new $12,000+ Jap bike to a $4000 jetmax and weren't paying for it I would go the Jap bike every day of the week

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Hi seven of Nine

Here is a picture of my rear lower swing arm on my CF Jetlux happen only after 5000 km from new, luck was on my side because I noticed the crack and was able to replace it with a new one . I am not the only person which has had this problem, a total failure could of been a life or death situation IMO.

Bike was less than a year old and all i got back from CF is " life is a bitch mate" and here is the bill for the new part.



Have you heard about a recall on this model ?

I am sure if this had been a Japanese made bike this would of been big news.

So please DONT EXPECT TO MUCH

Not sure if the Jetmax has the same design, worth a look

Attachment 17358

Attachment 17359

Attachment 17360

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Originally Posted by prince666

Hi seven of Nine

Here is a picture of my rear lower swing arm on my CF Jetlux happen only after 5000 km from new, luck was on my side because I noticed the crack and was able to replace it with a new one . I am not the only person which has had this problem, a total failure could of been a life or death situation IMO.

Bike was less than a year old and all i got back from CF is " life is a bitch mate" and here is the bill for the new part.

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Well, like bikerdoc said in post #75

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OK, the crack of the RHS rear sub swing-arm assembly is due to over stress. A big enough hit, like jumps and potholes will do that. Might have accumulated from a number of hits then hitting the pothole might have been the final hit. I've ridden mine 60K km without that happening, but I slow down whenever I encounter bad road conditions or what not, unlike another mate who rides his like he stole it (basically treats it like a dual purpose bike). His Jetmax's rear swing-arm suiffered the same fate as yours, so he had it specially welded up, though I think he bought a replacement in the end. I've followed him on his Jetmax more than once, and have often times cringed at just how abusive he is towards the scoot. Taking jumps of high berms and what not, then he complains about this or that not lasting etc. I just shake my head (our side joke - all arse, no class).
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post61796

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You didn't deny this and any company would do the same on a vehicle that had been treated hard

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Have you heard about a recall on this model ?
I am sure if this had been a Japanese made bike this would of been big news.

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Not on this model but I have on others
http://blog.motorcycle.com/2011/11/1...rake-controls/

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So please DONT EXPECT TO MUCH

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I dont, its a $3000 bike

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Not sure if the Jetmax has the same design, worth a look

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I do check it every few days when down there checking the oil and tyre pressure, thanks for the heads up.

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Originally Posted by DavidC

You pay for what you get. Most of the time, the cheaper one can do about 80+ % of what the Japanese or European scooters can do at half or one third the price. So it is up to you if you think if it is value for money.

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Well I don't need auto folding mirrors, I don't need self opening fuel caps, I don't need 3 different transmission modes, I don't need a lever operated brake, a strut to hold up the seat, a security system that unlocks the bike on approach or the myriad of other niceties, gimmicks and extras to break that other more expensive bikes have.

I just need a bike that is mechanically sound, is comfortable to ride and at the right price and this seems to have ticked the boxes for me.

Edit - to be fair I took a newer 2013 Burgman 650 for a run on Friday just to make sure I wasn't suffering from confirmation bias, and yes, it was nice with some caveats.
I personally prefer the Jetmax with the extra $7000 in my pocket

The elusive Mitsuboshi belt in a CFMOTO bag from one supplier
Still works out at $175aud
A 3mm bigger one to suit other 250cc bikes are about $150 cheaper


Attachment 17387

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=21353516296

Shit that big money the correct OE belt is 490 RMB (£50)


Attachment 17391


Attachment 17392


http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=20#detail

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Originally Posted by prince666

Shit that big money the correct OE belt is 490 RMB (£50)

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But is it the right belt?

The part number from the CFMoto parts list is 01AD - 053000 NOT 01AO - 053000
the length according to the dealer here in Oz and bikerdoc is 903 x 22.6 NOT 916 x 22.3 like in the pic.

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

But is it the right belt?

The part number from the CFMoto parts list is 01AD - 053000 NOT 01AO - 053000
the length according to the dealer here in Oz and bikerdoc is 903 x 22.6 NOT 916 x 22.3 like in the pic.

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You could be correct here is 1 more picture and link but cost is more

Attachment 17393

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=20#detail

If you look at the bar code one has a "1" ON THE END

The one which could be incorrect i did search correct

cfmoto春风水冷摩托车配件/捷马250/CF250T-6A/捷悍300传动皮带

Got to the bottom of the confusion the cheaper belt is for the first generation models

Bloody freight is expensive.
How is it that I can buy countless bits of crap from China on ebay and freight is free or almost nothing but when I want to buy something I actually want is going to cost a motza?
ezbuy https://ezbuy.com/ seem to think a belt, a set of brake pads, a set of rollers and 6 paper oil filters will weigh in at 6.5kg.
I would have thought it would be half that.

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Originally Posted by prince666

Got to the bottom of the confusion the cheaper belt is for the first generation models

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And you have to ask, why would you change belt size mid way through a model run?

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

Bloody freight is expensive.
How is it that I can buy countless bits of crap from China on ebay and freight is free or almost nothing but when I want to buy something I actually want is going to cost a motza?
ezbuy https://ezbuy.com/ seem to think a belt, a set of brake pads, a set of rollers and 6 paper oil filters will weigh in at 6.5kg.
I would have thought it would be half that.

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Yes, freight out of PRC to other countries is fairly expensive IMO, especially if the destination country isn't one of the major freight destinations (back and forth) e.g. USA!

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

And you have to ask, why would you change belt size mid way through a model run?

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R&D and QI from first models released e.g. second and later generation Jetmax brakes also have small design revisions. Same goes for the 650NK and 650TR, second and subsequent models have subtle modifications compared with the first generation model(s).

Not much different than most other manufacturers, often making subtle design modifications between model years. The Suzuki Burgman 650 is one clear example where between 2003-2012 modifications were made 'on the inside' some subtle, some more substantial. However looking at the Burgman 650 from the outside, nothing looks any different. Major changes clearly evident from the outside seen from the 2013 model Burgman 650 onwards. Yamaha have done the same with the Super Tenere XT1200 from 2010-2013, but made changes from 2014 onwards, some subtle and some more so.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

R&D and QI from first models released e.g. second and later generation Jetmax brakes also have small design revisions. Same goes for the 650NK and 650TR, second and subsequent models have subtle modifications compared with the first generation model(s).

Not much different than most other manufacturers, often making subtle design modifications between model years. The Suzuki Burgman 650 is one clear example where between 2003-2012 modifications were made 'on the inside' some subtle, some more substantial. However looking at the Burgman 650 from the outside, nothing looks any different. Major changes clearly evident from the outside seen from the 2013 model Burgman 650 onwards. Yamaha have done the same with the Super Tenere XT1200 from 2010-2013, but made changes from 2014 onwards, some subtle and some more so.

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Every manufacturer will do running changes to their model over the life time of the model. CF Moto is no exception. My 650 TK/TR has the revised instruments gauges with clock and trip meter plus upgraded brakes, external 12V socket and extra clips on the panniers. Found out that few months later, the model gets a longer side stand and optional taller screen. Have retrofitted both. Now the ABS option is available but can't retrofit that to my bike.

For anyone else in Oz wanting parts I got onto a mob called EZBuy as mentioned above.
Placed the order for Belt, rollers and 4 filters , all matching part numbers and delivered it came to $284.07aud , $29 of which was their fee , $54 was freight and they claim to have it to me in " Typically it will takes 3-4 days for items reach to our warehouse. When we received the items, we will arrange shipment to send out items and it would takes 7-10 days by economy air shipping. " (snipped from email)

They also use PayPal which is a plus

Best price I got from dealers here was $563 + freight from Melb. so a considerable saving if it all goes to plan.

Bikerdoc, how did you "lock" the CVT so as to do the final torque of the nuts on the CVT?
According to my interpretation of the manual the front is 60~65N.m and rear is 70~75N.m

There is mention in the manual (section 5-18) of a "especial tools and method 2-15" for releasing the nuts (yes I saw you used a rattle gun) so I am thinking the same special tool will be needed to hold them for cranking to correct torque settings.
Again looking in the manual at special tools (section 1-17) tool 2 is a "CVT Standstill Locking" used for "remove/install CVT Driver,driven plate nut.

Could this be one of these? http://thirdgear.com.au/adjustable-pulley-holder/
And if so do you see slots in the case where the tines/prongs could be inserted?

The reason I am asking is because I dont have a rattle gun and one to do the job here will cost $100 or more
I do have sockets, breaker bars and torque wrench already so if this $25 tool works i'll get it instead.

Yeah, on further investigation that tool above won't help get the CVT cover off but this thread on a vespa forum may.
It shows a similar CVT cover to the Jetmax and how they get their cover off without a rattle gun - very simple
http://modernvespa.com/forum/wiki-gt...a-installation

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

For anyone else in Oz wanting parts I got onto a mob called EZBuy as mentioned above.
Placed the order for Belt, rollers and 4 filters , all matching part numbers and delivered it came to $284.07aud , $29 of which was their fee , $54 was freight and they claim to have it to me in " Typically it will takes 3-4 days for items reach to our warehouse. When we received the items, we will arrange shipment to send out items and it would takes 7-10 days by economy air shipping. " (snipped from email)

They also use PayPal which is a plus

Best price I got from dealers here was $563 + freight from Melb. so a considerable saving if it all goes to plan.

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That is a good saving. Will they be able to get parts for other CFMoto models such as 650TK?

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Originally Posted by DavidC

That is a good saving. Will they be able to get parts for other CFMoto models such as 650TK?

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Had a quick look, there were CFMoto 650tk parts there
http://s.taobao.com/search?q=cfmoto+...150728&ie=utf8

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

Bikerdoc, how did you "lock" the CVT so as to do the final torque of the nuts on the CVT?
According to my interpretation of the manual the front is 60~65N.m and rear is 70~75N.m

There is mention in the manual (section 5-18) of a "especial tools and method 2-15" for releasing the nuts (yes I saw you used a rattle gun) so I am thinking the same special tool will be needed to hold them for cranking to correct torque settings.
Again looking in the manual at special tools (section 1-17) tool 2 is a "CVT Standstill Locking" used for "remove/install CVT Driver,driven plate nut.

Could this be one of these? http://thirdgear.com.au/adjustable-pulley-holder/
And if so do you see slots in the case where the tines/prongs could be inserted?

The reason I am asking is because I dont have a rattle gun and one to do the job here will cost $100 or more
I do have sockets, breaker bars and torque wrench already so if this $25 tool works i'll get it instead.

Yeah, on further investigation that tool above won't help get the CVT cover off but this thread on a vespa forum may.
It shows a similar CVT cover to the Jetmax and how they get their cover off without a rattle gun - very simple
http://modernvespa.com/forum/wiki-gt...a-installation

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As PM'd I didn't use a torque wrench at all. Just used the portable Milwaukee electric impact driver, and marked the nut and surrounding surface. Have had the CVT apart up to half a dozen times, and my method seems to work okay. Mate has done the same or similar on his Jetmax. Don't think there needs to be too much over-thinking. The Modern Vespa link looks interesting and might be a viable option. Let us know how you get on should you try it...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

For anyone else in Oz wanting parts I got onto a mob called EZBuy as mentioned above.
Placed the order for Belt, rollers and 4 filters , all matching part numbers and delivered it came to $284.07aud , $29 of which was their fee , $54 was freight and they claim to have it to me in " Typically it will takes 3-4 days for items reach to our warehouse. When we received the items, we will arrange shipment to send out items and it would takes 7-10 days by economy air shipping. " (snipped from email)

They also use PayPal which is a plus

Best price I got from dealers here was $563 + freight from Melb. so a considerable saving if it all goes to plan.

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UPDATE

Just got the email, all looks promising so far

Freight ended up being CHEEEEEEP so smiles all round there.

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Dear customer,

Your order #XXXXXXX has been shipped out by economy air shipment with tracking numberXXXXXX.
The estimated time of arrival is on about 8Aug, 2015. You'll get another email notification once parcel is ready for collection.

The chargeable weight for this parcel is 0.8kg, the international shipping fee only cost AU$8. The extra international shipping fee as well as the corresponding service charge has been deposited into your prepay account. You could check in My wallet.

Thank you.

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Sincerely,

EZbuy team

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and yes, in my Prepaid wallet (whatever the hell that is) I have

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My Wallet
My Prepaid Balance
AU$ 49.57
Withdraw(Coming Soon..)

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Seems at this stage it sits there for next purchase but there'll have to be a way of getting it back into my PayPal acc.

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Originally Posted by bikerdoc

The Modern Vespa link looks interesting and might be a viable option. Let us know how you get on should you try it...

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Path of least resistance is a corded rattle gun and witness marks
My knees, back and knuckles will thank me I am sure

For anyone interested or considering using the above crowd at this stage I give them the thumbs up.
Every step of the way had tracking for the items so I saw them arrive at depot in China, leave depot, arrive in Sydney, leave Sydney, arrive QLD and then an email from ezbuy saying they were ready for pickup at the pick up centre.
They arrived in a box that wasn't crushed with all parts in original bags with CFmoto tags on them.
25 July order and 4th Aug. delivered here all for $8 freight.
Can't complain about that.

I figured paying $200+ dollars for dropping the oil and giving the bike the once over, which I do every second day myself, was a bit of a rort so I have started doing the "servicing" myself.

Today was new oil and filter time.

The manual says to use a minimum of SG grade oil or an appropriate SAE (10w-30, 15w-40, 20w-50) oil and as I live in QLD where it is warmer I chose the 20w-50 and as it has a dry clutch, like so many I decided one without a picture of a bike on the bottle would be fine.

Valvoline XLD Premium ticked the box being better than SG grade (SL) and as the oil is dropped every 3000klm's at $9.99 for 5L (on special @ supercheap auto) I grabbed 10 litres.

I had a nagging doubt in the back of my mind about that oil so called the dealer to confirm it was ok to use that brand and weight of oil and for QLD they say not a problem

Expensive motul oil out, filter out and new stuff in and started it up.

Before it sounded a bit thumpy (but not in a bad way) like a single pot 250 sometimes does but now I could hardly hear it run it was so very smoooooth.

Check levels top it up and off for a ride.
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When I went for restart it had an error code show and reappear each time I turned on the ignition.
Seems it is the maintenance warning light telling me its time to drop the oil, obviously a klm thing and not oil quality sensor.

Have reset instructions at hand so an easy fix.
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Today was belt changing day.

Popular video on youtube shows taking a belt off without removing variator but there was no way in the world that was happening here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XakW...5x_ECb&index=7

Not really sure why they say the belt needs changing at 10,000 on this. There was no sign of wear and the width was less than 1mm different to the new one.

Inside the case was remarkably clean, I expected to see heaps of clutch or worn belt dust.

Roller weights show no sign of wear or size difference vs the new ones I had and no score marks or grooves in metal that they roll in so I didn't replace them.

I put witness marks on the nuts and bolt before taking them off so rattled back up to them , ran it for a while and then took it for a run and all seems fine.

Gearbox oil next which is the same oil as the engine.

Damnit, to drain the gearbox oil the CVT cover needs to come off and that means removing side step and panel, a dozen bolts and the rattle gun again for the clutch nut.

Undid the fill bolt and oil seeped out still looking clean so it can wait until next oil change I think.

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Originally Posted by seven of nine

Heres a better view of the culprit

Attachment 16233

What if instead of blocking or crimping the end I raised it so the oil drains back into the system but the breather still breathes?

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First time in a long time it started dripping oil again
Went in for a look and oil sitting in tube up to second bolt head on left of the picture.
Looked at the "special" breather valve in the end and had my suspicions which were proven correct when I removed it.

It was nothing more than a bog standard tyre valve cap.