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Now I'm laughing out loud, GR Jr! Sounds like you are further along in your thinking about the bike's aesthetics than you'd let on!
Egg shell black sounds excellent and durable, but with a high sheen rather than the "don't mess with me" matte look of bedliner.
Can't wait to see the results.
cheers
hmmm, my bike also smelled like there was gas in the tank when i got it, and on top of that it had 0.5 miles on the trip meter. i don't know if it was a return but it did come in the factory crate, i did have to install the forward controls and bars, and did have to fill and charge the battery myself. i can tell you that all the bolts were snugged up and it seemed as if the chain was already adjusted.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Weird. That makes two with the gas smell in the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooliganboy
How much oil was in the DF?
When I got mine about a year ago there was no gas smell and very little oil in the bike as the warning tag and the owner's manual stated.
i don't know exactly how much oil was in it but if i had to guess, i'd say about a quart. it was probably a little less than when i did my oil change at 150mi. i don't think it was full to the fill line on the dip stick but it was close.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Mine had 0.1 miles on the odometer. Both tires new, not a mark on them. With these "black bolts", none showed a single wrench mark. Mine had less that a quart and it seemed like a real thin viscosity. I did change my oil to the 10w40 for wet clutches and changed the spark plug right out of the crate. Mine chain measures right also. Did you get your from Scooterdepot, or drop shipped?Quote:
Originally Posted by hooliganboy
i got mine from Scooterdepot. my tires were also brand new with no marks on them but the oil that was in it didn't appear to be a thin viscosity, it actually looked just like the 10w40 i replaced it with from my local honda shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
when I got mine smelt of gas and gas line was pulled loose , as if to drain the tank prior to shipping , .1 on odom , oil seems ok but as per norm changed it immediately
funny thing about this tiny bike , it burns out like theres no tomorrow easily doing it , Ive owned several "classic" superbikes , 77 GS 750 , 82 CB 750F supersport , KZ 1000 , and nun would spin the tires , I finnally park the superbikes and get something for economy ..... and it makes them look old :p
Here's the VIN# to my old DF LXDPCNL09A2114051 lets hope that they didnt recycle the bike with new Speedo left side controls and rear marker light
Gardo
Thanks for the encouragement to change the tank, you're right cost is relative.
Found a Model A rear tail lamp that fits perfect. Vintage horn too.
All being painted next week (with tank) pics to follow.
Nice looking bike Gun. Just a bit of advice on the wiring. The wire gauges are different as you have noticed. Eliminate the stock plug if you haven't already and splice the wires together. I found that the higher amp draw melted the plug on my CB and I lost light.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
Thanks David. I assume the connection plug under tank. Need the room anyway with new tank. What wattage are you using now & fuse size? Will be using 16/22 crimp connectors & taped, ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by david3921
Attachment 6066
Out for a cruise... Nice day yesterday, this was taken before I lost the right mirror head.
alleykat, That nice looking box grew into a beautiful bike. I can't wait for the weather to warm up here so I can take mine out for a spin. You look pleased as punch in the picture, I hope you had a fun ride.
Hey guys, changing your tank is not easy. Interior tunnel width is important. I thought 3" was over-kill. Holy sh-t all kinds of adjustment. Five hours of cutting & planing, but figured it out (I hope, tired need sleep). Thought I would be painting new tank, tonight. Buy the way , they come rougher than I thought. Will need a allot of sanding & filing than I expected. Weld down the center not flat.
What I did to fit my tank was to cut-down the voltage regulator mounting bracket just wide enough so I could still reinstall it in the original position should I ever want to. It ended up being relocated rearward and facing down under the tank. I also did not want to cut off the fuel tank frame mounting plates, so I just bent them upward again the backbone. It just turned out that the Gilera tank had forward facing side mounting plates that lined up with the 6mm wellnuts in the frame.
M
Bella,
Thanks for the tip about just bending the rear mounting brackets. What about the front mounting brackets? Were they a problem?
GUN,
I still debating changing the tank but will probably just rattle can paint it. I'm going for the rat bike look. Could you post a photo of your rearranged wiring and bracket removal with the tank off?
The tank I used (a leftover from another project) has mounting tabs facing forward, on each side of the tunnel. I do not recall the tunnel width other than, when I cut-down the reg. bracket so it was no wider than it's two predrilled holes, the tank -just- fit around the bracket with plenty of room for all the wiring. The forward facing tank tabs were predrilled for it's OE application and just happen toline-up perfectly with the wellnuts in the frame neck. I used rubber grommets and largehead buttonhead screws up front and a spring retainer clamp at the back ala classic cafe racers.
The twin petcock locations on the Gilera tank gave me a bit of drama as the RH petcock did not clear the carb. I blanked it off and I'm using just the left side for now, but I did find a pair of low profile/90° bung petcocks off another Italian bike which I think will fit perfectly on both sides.
Attachment 6093
/M
Attachment 6094Attachment 6095 Sorry about the bad pics, seem to be having a problem with the motion option on camera.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Before primer, you can see the shinny spots where I removed (cut off) the frame tank brackets, wire clips & tapered fins on condenser. Top engine bolts shortened as well. Fit is finished, now glazing & sanding mfg welds to an acceptable finish.
Will use DuraColor 'rattle can' to paint tank, rear light, headlamp & horn.
Regarding wires. Moved all to left side (including ignition). Lost the room under tank. need to work out placement after paint. Did install an led neutral light in new headlamp case (speedo removed permanently)
Nice work, GR Jr.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
Will this bike still be street legal without a working speedometer?
cheers!
Hey guys, I'm now having clutch problems also. At first I could easily find neutral and move through the gears. Now its harder to get back into neutral and shift through the gears. I seems the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I would be curious to know what adjustments everyone else has had to make and also how far your clutch control arm (part #5 in the parts list) moves when you pull the clutch lever. My control arm, where the lower part of the clutch cable connects, moves less than an inch. I wish I had really noticed from the start how far mine had moved. I do notice that if I try to start the bike in first with the clutch lever pull back, the bike wants to move slowly forward on its own.
Easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.Quote:
Originally Posted by euphonius
You need to take some of the slack out of your clutch cable so that the clutch completely disengages.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
If you don't know how to do it read this article at http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm . Towards the end there is a procedure for adjusting the clutch cable free play.
Google "adjusting the clutch cable motorcycle" for videos and more information.
GUN,Quote:
Originally Posted by GUN ROD
Thanks for the photos and info. Maybe I'll get around to it one of these days.
my clutch control arm only moves 3/4" , that's not where your problem is, you probably have too much play in your clutch lever. after you adjust it you should only have about 1/8" free play in the clutch lever.Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Thanks for the info Barnone. I'll give it a shot and report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by barnone
Tom
Good to know, I'll look into that.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooliganboy
Well it only lasted for a little while. I am not sure if it was me,or if the tank just needs to be replaced..But I had a leaky tank some time ago..as others did..I followed the advise here and JB welded it.. did all the steps,sanded,cleaned,everything,JB weld.. and Like I said it held..until this morning I came out and sure enough..the tank is leaking again. I am gonna call the depot and have them send me a new tank.. I hope to get it sooner than later.. and I am also gonna tell the guy I deal with to take a peak at this thread,so he can see what kind of issue this bike has had over the past year of all of us discussing it. Again,I am only disappointed that I have to fix this type of proble..which is out of most any ones control.. the other issues I have been reading about and experiencing are something we have to consider as norm..you get what you pay for basicaly. anyway thought I would share(vent) my frustration of my morning ride to work. I was planning on riding tomorrow but it does not look like I will be able to.
KREEM your tank (12-15 bucks?) , itll put a "slightly rubberized coating" over the inner tank permanantly stopping the leak
I've been thinking about this one too
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
But haven't pulled the trigger on either yet...