Check this out :) $549-599 delivered. 198CC mini chopper :0
Attachment 7737
http://www.desertscooters.com/mini-c...i-chopper.html
http://www.sin-racing-scooters.com/minichopper.htm
I want the 1 gallon tank for my Tomos Revival.
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Check this out :) $549-599 delivered. 198CC mini chopper :0
Attachment 7737
http://www.desertscooters.com/mini-c...i-chopper.html
http://www.sin-racing-scooters.com/minichopper.htm
I want the 1 gallon tank for my Tomos Revival.
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Here you go: original Tomos APN-4's tank with toolbox.
Attachment 7738
Evokid.. look back a couple pages and you can see my post on this problem.I had to do the same thing with mine.. made new studs out of grade 8 bolts. bought a new spocket and now riding fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by evokid8
Attachment 7739Attachment 7740Attachment 7741Attachment 7742Attachment 7743
I wrapped my pipe with exhaust wrap. Haven't burned my leg since. It's a lot more comfortable when stopped at a light. I added a chain tensioner, a little expensive, but easy to install and makes the ride a lot quieter, and smoother. Here is the site: http://www.monstercraftsman.com/powe...ain-tensioner/ I had to grind off the triangle on the frame holding the cross tube. Made sure there was clearance between the rear tire and it, and also that the chain was as close to center on the skateboard wheel as possible. Covered my seat with a fabric suede, and used a grey hemp cord to add the stitching along the rear. Near my front tire I strapped on a farming tube manual holder with stainless steel zip ties. Holds my tools and a copy of my paperwork. The custom paint job is a base of red engine paint, some stencils made with painters tape, and black engine paint. I removed the extraneous air parts, moved the ignition switch, and covered the air hole to the engine with a piece cut from a mint tint. Over 400 miles of smooth riding so far.
That's a good looking ride Rollenrock! - you've added some great mods. Just curious - how did you decide between the chain tensioner with the wheel as opposed to the one with the smal sprocket? Also, I remember you had a leaky tank some time ago - how did you fix it?Quote:
Originally Posted by rollenrock
I dig that seat cover. Really transforms the look of the stock 'doormat.' Well done.
/M
Browsing around for gas tanks and found this:
http://www.debrix.com/Pop-Up-King-Pe...38-0295-vt.htm
Think it may fit the DF? was looking for something with a really wide and not too deep tunnel - which seems to be needed according to previous posts
I chose the wheel instead of the sprocket because there is more wiggle room. The sprocket one would have to be aligned exactly, whereas the wheel is a much larger surface. There isn't a lot of room in that area, and it is a pretty large tensioner. I ordered a bolt on first, thinking it could be bolted on through the frame triangle. That stood straight up and would have caused the bottom of the chain to rub against the top. As far as my gas tank, I took it to a welder and had it spot welded for less than $20. The connectors are tack welded on a thin metal in a very small spot. They put a larger tack weld on over more of the surface so that it distributes the pull over a larger area. I had all the points done so I wouldn't have to deal with it again. The leak happened after I Kreemed the tank, so I thought I would avoid this.
Anybody know what threading the stock mirrors are? The stock ones are crap because they move from vibration. Found some 10mm Honda clone replacement mirrors on ebay for less than $10. Are these worth it? I want my replacement mirrors to fit in the same threaded hole that the originals were mounted in.
I got ones that where for a honda rebel, I believe it's 10mm. It has to be metric, it's from China :]Quote:
Originally Posted by GonzoX
Thats what I thought Pooh. Ordered a pair tonight. Less than $8 for the pair. Hopefully they wont be junk. If they dont work out I will look at getting a good used pair locally. At least they make adapters to fit things.
Fixed my clutch cable issue. I purchased a used Honda CBR clutch assembly, had to work it a little. Not really happy with it.. but it works for now. I actually had to combine the parts from the CBR with the stock Df parts to make it work. But it is good now. I am gonna buy a new set of handles for both sides soon to make it look a bit more uniform,,instead of one aluminum and one black. anyway. all is good,and back riding again. Put on another 150 miles today.. up to almost 4000 miles on her.
Attachment 7797Attachment 7798
100 miles done on July 4
Mods done so far:
relocated ignition
stripes removed
removed smog pump
jb welded bottom tank brackets
washer mod on carb
adjusted chain
The DF carb mod explained:
I took pictures of when I inserted the washer on the needle - might make it easier for anyone else wanting to do this. I found the bike is running a lot smoother and not as lean with this mod:
Attachment 7802Attachment 7803
First step is to cut off the fuel valve, remove the fuel line and air filter and then remove the carb. Next open up the bowl with the 3 copper screws - good idea to have a small container underneath it as you do this to ensure you don't spill the gas in the bowl on your motor. Check the size of your main jet - mine is 105 - I suggest replacing anything smaller than this for this bike (... unless you like all the popping and don't mind a hot motor...)
Attachment 7804
Open up the slider at the top and carefully take it out. compress the spring and release the inner cable through the groove and hole on the side. You should have the slider and the needle in your hand seperate from the carb now. Remove the holding pin inside the slider carefully with long nose pliers and extract the needle. The needle is seated in a small recess. insert 1 (or even 2 depending on how lean your mixture is) #4 washers (see picture) over the needle. The #4 washer should fit neatly under the base of the needle.
Attachment 7806Attachment 7805
Put it all back again in the reverse order - make sure you insert the slider back correctly - look inside the sleeve - you will see a small "knob" that needs to be aligned with the groove on the side of the slider. Test your throttle function before starting the bike
you will feel the difference.... - a much smoother ride
Nice tutorial Garryo. Love the pics and detail. Good job.
Agreed, very helpfull!!
That's exactly what I did with my carb, when I first removed the needle I freaked out because there where not adjustment slot... But lucky I have seemly infinite supply of washers. Good write up! It saves money from buying a carb kit. Now I just need to find me a slow jet!
Heres my post on jets. It has clickable links...Quote:
Originally Posted by mrepooh
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ll=1#post41593
Thanks alleykat - I now remember reading this some time ago - where did you end up with the jets - still have the 108 and 45 in? did you end up swapping out the 45 with a 42?
OH MAN, you're a life saver. I was scouring this whole thread last night and I couldn't find it. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by alleykat
Kat,
What is the part number for the adjustable needle?
Ahhh, nevermind. Found it. :thumbsup:
/M
I'm still with those settings. I haven't been into the higher mph to know if I need to go >108 on the main yet. The 45 slow (pilot) is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by garryo
Your welcome. The thread is getting kinda long. I've been toying with the idea of putting together a condensed version, starting at the beginning, cut and paste just the "good stuff" to a file, and posting the file...Quote:
Originally Posted by mrepooh
Those of you that had the rear sprocket bolt/stud break, what sprocket size (teeth) were you running at that time?
Ive found the 110 "OK" but still lean wide open on highway with the forward facing in airstream airfilter , looking at a 130 :O
Found replacement rear sprocket studs.
Attachment 7846
Honda Part number 90128-382-670 made in Japan. Any stronger than China, don't know, LOL
Source - Ebay
(mine haven't snapped yet, but I'm ready)
Also added direct replacement shift rod to my collection...
Attachment 7847
296mm - Steel shift rod (silver). The ends of the shift rod are threaded as: M6-Male-Standard/M6-Male-Reverse. $14.99
Part #: SR-296
Source - http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...Shift-Rod.html
OMG Alleycat you are the man!
Have you tried this rod yet? How is the fit and quality compared to the original?
Great information - thanks Kat - your last couple of posts will be a great reference for all current and future DF motorheads...
Hi from Greenville SC. Just ordered my bobber from Great Sports in Joliet IL. Can't wait to get it. I sold my old shovelhead bobber years ago and really miss riding. I like the old school single cylinder look. All they had in stock was the silver and blue. I figure I'll do away with the front fender and paint the rear flat black. I have an old 70's sporty tank ready to put on. Hopefully it won't be too hard to fit on. I also went ahead and ordered drag bars and new grips for it and shopping for a seat. I don't think I'll mess with the motor much as it looks pretty good the way it is. Wish it had a kickstart though.