QingQi (Qlink) 200GY Illustrated Valve Adjustment

Decided to take the plunge and do the valve adjustment this weekend. I took some notes and pictures so people can see it's really not that difficult. I'm fairly sure all the Chinese motorcycles use a rocker arm design. The benefits of this are lower manufacturing costs and easy adjustments. The downside being more frequent adjustments and accelerated wear on the guides due to lateral friction.

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix011.jpg

The shim under bucket design that is found in most modern motorcycles requires less maintenance, but can be a real PITA because you need a set of shims and generally must remove the camshaft to perform the adjustments.

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix010.gif

I worked in a Suzuki dealership in the late 80's and early 90's. At that time, almost all Suzuki models were using the rocker arm adjuster. We performed a first service at 600 miles and the valve adjustment was part of that service. I would say about half the bikes serviced were out of spec. Suzuki usually recommended 4000-8000 miles between valve adjustments. After the initial adjustment, most of the bikes we serviced stayed within spec and rarely required further tweeking until they reached high mileage.

I think it's safe to say that most people don't touch their valves for two reasons. #1 Shops charge an arm and a leg for it because it's very time consuming. #2 Noisy valves usually won't stop the bike from running, and most people ignore maintenance until they are stranded on the road.

With that said, I think it's best if you perform an initial valve adjustment at 1000 kilometers and then check them every 5000 kilometers.

So let's get started..... I always like to start with a clean bike before tearing her down and getting inside. You are going to have a few areas of your engine exposed during the process, any loose crud hanging around your engine could fall inside and really ruin your day. Also not a bad idea to use a work stand for this operation.

Ain't She Purdy!:bling:

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix004.jpg

I would recommend pulling the seat, side panels and tank off. It's not absolutely necessary, but it makes the process a lot easier. Now that she's naked, remove the spark plug and the four items marked in yellow in the following picture.
#1 Front Valve Cover 17mm spanner
#2 Rear Valve Cover 17mm spanner
#3 Timing Mark Cover 17mm spanner
#4 Small Engine Cap 10mm Allen Wrench

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix005.jpg

Put your 17mm socket inside the hole, where the 10mm allan cap was, and rotate the engine around (counterclockwise) until you see a mark on the flywheel indicating Top Dead Center. Verify you are at Top Dead Center (TDC) by checking the position of the piston through the spark plug hole. If you got it right, you can grab one of the rockers and wiggle it a bit. Remember, this is a four stroke engine, the piston will be at TDC twice during the four strokes. This is what you should see through the inspection hole if you got it right.

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix006.jpg

Now, let's have a look at one of the valves. This happens to be the intake valve, but it is identical to the exhaust valve.

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix007.jpg

Here's some colour coding and explanations for you first timers.
The first thing you need to understand is what we are adjusting here. At the bottom, you will see a Green part and a Red part. We are trying to measure and set the gap (space) between these two items. The Orange screw at the top is what you will turn to make the adjustment. The Blue nut keeps everything tight after you have made the adjustment. Pretty simple :thumbsup:

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix008.jpg

You will need a set of feeler gauges to measure the gap. First thing you want to do is check the current gap, maybe your valves don't need adjusting. Through CrazyCarl, we have learned that the correct specification is .06mm to .08mm for both the exhaust and intake ports. Take a .09mm gauge and slip it in. If it goes in, you're valves are too loose. Take a .06mm gauge and slip it in. If it doesn't go in, your valves are too tight.

If you need to adjust them, loosen the nut and back the adjuster screw out. Insert a .07mm gauge and carefully tighten the adjuster until it lightly pinches the gauge. You should be able to pull the gauge out. Now tighten the lock nut down without rotating the adjuster screw (not easy unless you have 3 hands). If you did it correctly, the .06mm will easly slip in, the 07mm will slip in with a little wiggling and the .08mm will not go. If you can't get a .06mm in there, they are too tight. If you can get a .09mm in, they are too loose.

http://www.contactdi.com/2008/fix/fix009.jpg

Now that you have both the intake and the exhaust valves adjusted, step back and drink a beer:beerbust: It's a good idea to verify your work, so rotate the engine a few times and then check them again. Be patient, you probably won't get it right the first time, I didn't:gaah: If everything appears to be in good working order, put the bike back together and fire it up. With any luck she will be smooth as silk. If you hear some nasty clacking sounds, immediately shut the bike off and check the valves again.

I took a quick run around the block and the bike definately responds better and the engine sounde nice and smooth. I will need to take her out for a good thrashing and see if this helps with the stalling issue I have been encountering all along.

Cheers!
ChinaV

fantastic. thank you for this. i appreciate the effort and attention to detail.

i beat the hell out of my bike and just had the first valve adjustment done.

it needed it so bad it was cutting out at top speeds. the carburetor was not the cause.

valve adjustment is very important but is/was overlooked by many. me included.

this makes it very clear on how to do it. good werk. thank you again.

o and ya it is quite "purdy"!!!

Nice piece of work Lorne. :thumbsup:

I have a 4 cylinders to check for you...:mwink:

well i wanted to update on my comment "it needed it so bad (valve adjustment) it was cutting out at top speeds. the carburetor was not the cause."

it turns out i had a vacuum problem in the gas tank!!!

although the bike did like the valve adjustment the stuttering gradually came back.

after 2 trips to the dealer and about 5 test rides the second time it just needed a vacuum line swapped.

i went down on my jetting since i went so big on it, all the way to 135. and it amplified the problem. that is when they dug a little deeper and determined it was the vacuum line.

just wanted to clear this comment up. now it is running like a top again!!!

Dont forget to rotate engine to set exhaust !!

XS,

Why would the engine need to be rotated to set the exhaust valve clearances?

CC

I think XS means that the instructions tell you to place the engine at TDC. It doesn't specify "on the compression stroke". If you set TDC using the scribed marks on the exhaust stroke you can adjust the inlet valve but you'll have to rotate the engine 360º to do the exhaust valve.

If you do find TDC on the compression stroke you can adjust both valves without any further movement of the crank.

I find the following method works:

Rotate engine in the normal running direction until you observe the inlet valve rocker move down. This means it's opening the inlet valve. Continue rotating until the rocker starts to come back up, meaning that the inlet valve is beginning to close and therefore you're nearing the compression stroke. Take your eyes off the rocker and concentrate on the flywheel marks. The next time the "T" mark comes up and aligns with the index you're on the compression stroke and both valves can be adjusted.

This is great I just got on the computer with the intention of posting on this topic. Thanks for the info. While I understand the theeory.....I've never tackled this job before. My scooter just past 300km and I was wondering how much time I have before I needed to do this. Does anyone know a link I could access on the QMB 139 engine schematic?

Thanks so much.
DI

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dianageorgina

scooter just past 300km and I was wondering how much time I have before I needed to do this. Does anyone know a link I could access on the QMB 139 engine ...

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Search Honda GY6 50cc service manual in google

Thanks humanbeing.
di

Nice post... interesting !

used this guide today, brilliant for a novice like me

Hi

My bike reached the 1000km and I'm planning to do a valve adjustment. However, my bike isn't the 200cc version as your's, but the 125cc (XF125GY I think).
My question is: what's the correct specification of the exhaust and intake ports for my bike? it's similar to the 200cc version?
In the Suzuki Yes EN125 manual it says that the gap for the intake port should be between 0.04 and 0.07 mm, and for the exhaust port 0,13-0,18mm...
In ChinaV's post he says that the correct specification is .06mm to .08mm for both the exhaust and intake ports.
So which gap should I use?
Thank you in advance for your help
Cheers

anyone?
cheers

No, we won't tell you...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by superfamous

anyone?
cheers

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super,
I can't help but does your bike have any stickers on it with a value or does your owner's manual give a value. Seems all my bikes are about the same as ChinaV's values.

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Originally Posted by Zorge

No, we won't tell you...

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ha ha ha.

thank you Barnone for your reply.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by superfamous

In the Suzuki Yes EN125 manual it says that the gap for the intake port should be between 0.04 and 0.07 mm, and for the exhaust port 0,13-0,18mm...

Cheers

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Owners of motorcycles suzuki yes125 say that when adjusting the valves using the minimum values, the sound of the valves decreases. but the engine is bad at high speeds.
Most prefer to adjust the valves with more slack, even if you stand with the sound of knocking valves.
I suppose it gets better, intake valve 0.07 exhaust valve 0.18

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Luis Carlos

Owners of motorcycles suzuki yes125 say that when adjusting the valves using the minimum values, the sound of the valves decreases. but the engine is bad at high speeds.
Most prefer to adjust the valves with more slack, even if you stand with the sound of knocking valves.
I suppose it gets better, intake valve 0.07 exhaust valve 0.18

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As they say over on the Royal Enfield forum," Loud valves saves lives",:lol8:

Hi
Ok, thank you for your help.
I'll use 0,07 and 0,18mm!

:mwink:

http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...qLgn84bLDQ&t=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by superfamous

ha ha ha.

thank you Barnone for your reply.

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Strange... In the notice which I received via e-mail, about your response to my post, it says something different than what I see here...

It says:

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vai po caralho filho da puta

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I understand you: sometimes it is difficult to understand some joke.

If this is as stated, it just means he finally understood the joke and edited the cursing out before you saw the post on forum? Let us hope so, that is going a bit far, even for me and I don't mind the odd stoush.

Jape, no big deal.

Hi,

soon i will adjust valves of my QM200GY. They are little noisy when engine warm, no performance problems, pulls like a train.
I recently bought her as second owner, now 6200 km on the clock and i am afraid valves never been checked...

I owned many big CC bikes before and exhaust valve gap was always LARGER than inlet valve gap.

Are you REALLY SURE both exhaust and inlet valves have to be adjusted at same measurement, 0.07mm for QM200GY ?...

Sorry for beeing suspicious, just want to be 100% sure..

Thanks..

Hi

it was noted in dr200 SE service manual that both inlet and exhaust must be the same and in range of 0.08 to 0.13 so i put mine on 0.10 and works fine no click sound .....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jape

If this is as stated, it just means he finally understood the joke and edited the cursing out before you saw the post on forum? Let us hope so, that is going a bit far, even for me and I don't mind the odd stoush.

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Jape,
Where are you? Did you ditch the China bike and leave us?

I do not want to do this unpleasant job twice, please somebody advice me the correct (best performing) clearances.

This ?...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChinaV

Through CrazyCarl, we have learned that the correct specification is .06mm to .08mm for both the exhaust and intake ports. Take a .09mm gauge and slip it in. If it goes in, you're valves are too loose. Take a .06mm gauge and slip it in. If it doesn't go in, your valves are too tight.

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Or this ?...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nima Naderi

it was noted in dr200 SE service manual that both inlet and exhaust must be the same and in range of 0.08 to 0.13 so i put mine on 0.10 and works fine no click sound .....

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Or, should i take an average measurement, 0.07 + 0.10 = 0.17 ÷ 2 = 0.085 :icon10: ?..

Or, it is not such a big deal, just don't let them set too tight and keep rolling..?

Thanks,..

Quote:

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in range of 0.08 to 0.13

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I have service manual -- GS125 qingqi-- also states both valves at the range.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by td_ref

I have service manual -- GS125 qingqi-- also states both valves at the range.

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dear basri

look like u get the point ... i agree that "it is not a big deal but let it loose" and have fun