hey ive got a tmec 125 and need sone supliment lights any ideas and how to fit
:gun_bandana:
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hey ive got a tmec 125 and need sone supliment lights any ideas and how to fit
:gun_bandana:
These high energy LED working for you? :icon10:
TB link, http://shop33137174.taobao.com/searc...&queryType=cat
[image]http://img02.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i2/23137801/T2cFJuXghXXXXXXXXX_!!23137801.jpg[/image]
These are the lights I'd like to add to both of my dual sports:
Denali D1 LED Lights
TD_ref, any idea who the 捷超 LED would compare to the Denali?
thanks!
I bought a 1500 lumen 30W LED, mounted on my bike, used it a lot at last summer. the brightness is overwhelming, despite its limited degree field (HID is better), the glare is strong, but I used it supplemental for high beam, it is OK, kind of intended to force oncoming traffic switch off their bloody high beam. I don't think LED is good for low beam, also I prefer halogen lamp for high beam, for its light penetration at long distance, I don't know why, colour temperate maybe, you would see longer distance using halogen lamp than LED.
My suggestion is stay same with original head lamp, use LED as fog lamp, 2 high energy LED mount at each side, you would cover wider filed and the light would be bright as sun. 15w each is enough, if you were crazy like me, go for 30w+. Guarantee the local lorry driver a surprise.
The Denali's has full package, relay, switch etc. I bought them separately. As spec, the each pod produce 900 lumen at 10w, compare to the one I have, produce 1500 lumen at 30w. Notice the 捷超 has better LED unit, 3000 lumen at higher price, still cheaper than Denali.
Besides, I replace my S2 30/30w head lamp to H4 55/65w.relay connect directly to battery. No over-stress the old cable. I could easily use H4 100w :naughty: , but kind of worry its intense heat. I also replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier to better one. High beam 65w on, LED 30w on, 14.2v output all above 2000rpm. Still enough juice charges the battery:lol8:
how hard are they to fit and can you make come on
with full beam
Thanks for all that info TD, i'm thinking of getting a setup like that on my Qingqi as well. So apart from the lights, what other bits do you need to buy for the whole setup? Any pictures of your bike with them installed?
I always thought it would be pretty cool to mount these on some hand guards at the end of the bars. If i do it i'll share some pics!
Captured picture of the front of headlight.
Attachment 6089
Thanks, TD! That looks sturdier than I expected.
cheers
Thanks for sharing TD! I was imagining that you had mounted two lights, but one is enough if it's just for blinding truck drivers!
Do you think two 15W lights would have the same effect as one 30W?
小意思,mates,
two 15w wound be perfect, if you managed install them.
be noted that same watt of different led produce not same lumen. if mine 30w was cree core, it should have been eye blinding 3000 lumen.
I'm looking at these ones:
Cree Q5 15W
http://img01.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/...!555440396.jpg
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=9682779974
2 x 1200 lumen should be pretty damn bright!
I'm still not too clear on what other things i need. Can i connect them straight to the battery (via a switch) or do i need relays and other shit?
I bought several sets (since I have several motorcycles) that I plan on installing sometime during the CNY or not long thereafter. All sets I bought are 30W LED, since you can never have enough light IMO especially in China. Since I do a lot of motorcycle riding at night time, then it's even more a requirment that I have better than average lights on my motorcycles, notwithstanding in areas where there are other traffic that I have the ability to use said lighting to try to force other drivers to lower/dip the highbeam on their vehicles (an all too common problem here the middle kingd00m).
I've fitted HID lights to all my motorcycles with the exception of my Super Tenere S10. I bought LED (from a taobao dealer) lights to supplement the HID lights, since LED's can produce a brighter white light which is highly conspicuous but does not provide a high level of illumination. This means others can see the LED's more easily, but the lights don't provide enough illuminated light to be used for primary means of navigation. LED's also consume less electricity so have many more applications compared to other forms of automotive lighting.
The taobao link is to a set I've bought for my Dragstar Classic 1100, whereas the other sets are the same style as felix's (above).
It depends on the application. If you have a bike with a high output alternator then you may not need to install a relay. If you have a low output alternator then a relay is recommended. If you have either but have lots of farkles (accessories like I tend to run on my bikes) then a relay is a wise choice. You might like to also consider a PC-8 Fusebox or similar depending on your application, from Eastern Beaver (pdf install link for the PC-8). As for a switch, again it depends on how you want to use the LED's either complimentary to the standard bikes headlights, or indepdenent from. Either switchable is always a nice idea, which is why I bought several sets of switches with ring collars that I could attach to the handle bars of my bikes from the taoboa dealer (above post). These I plan to wire inline, and attach on the handlebars where possible. If you choose not to go with a switch then you'll have to work out how you plan to splice into your bike. Always on with ignition, on with low beam versus highbeam headlight, or with the park light? Mine I plan to wire to a fusebox, switched independent of headlight/parklight and use a relay.Quote:
Originally Posted by felix
Just my wu jiao's worth plus a fen or two to cover inflation.
A little electrical education...
If one plans on fitting and using 55 watt bulbs in fog lamps then....
I = W / E
I = amps
W = watts
E = Volts
I = 55W divided by 12v (volts)
I = 4.58 amps.
2 bulbs=>
4.58 x 2
Total I = 9.16 Amps
In regards to running wiring, simply match what the lighting kit is supplied with and make wiring as short as practical and you should be fine. Most manufacturers supply accessory lights with 12 gauge wire or a 14 gauge. You could get away with a 16 gauge for the single light set up but you are better off increasing that 14 or 12 gauge. Practical application dictates using a gauge up from the minimum. It reduces voltage loss, heat, and provides a better durability quotient. If you have any doubt as to what the wiring is from the manufacturer, give them a call. Never use a gauge smaller than what is recommended or provided in the kit.
Reference table to check
Ok thanks a lot for that info bikerdoc! This is turning out to be a great thread despite the original poster's best efforts to not even contribute any punctuation.
Since i'm already running car horns, heated grips and a 2A usb charger off the bike's original wiring, i think it might be smart to hook these lights up to the battery.
From what i understand, a relay is only necessary if i want to use the switches that already exist on my bike. If i had the lights on a completely different circuit, with their own switch and plugged straight into the battery, there'd be no need for a relay. Correct?
I haven't decided yet whether i want to use my existing switches or add some extra ones (big red button potential).
Advantages of big red button:
- Awesomeness
- Easier to wire up
- Leaves my existing wiring unharmed
Advantages of using existing light switches:
- Assholes can't play with my lights when the bike is parked
- I can wire the new lights into the 'passing' switch and use them to signal people
- Convenient location
Either way this will all have to wait til after CNY. It's that time of year again when taobao sellers leave their computer, kuaidi companies park their ebikes and the whole country grinds to a shuddering halt as everyone is done with looking busy for the next three weeks. (plus another three week after that to 'ease back into it')
it's may not easy to find out how much ampage the headlight cable is capable as safe. that why i didnt bet on luck and bought in relay. large current doesnot pass switch is another reason.
felix i guess your bike has got 3 phrase alternator but subpar RR, you may need upgrade it too. to check the bike has enough power, measure the voltage as every bit of electric devices open, see if the voltage is above 14v at battery as your rev the engine up.
good luck and have good chn new year holiday.
These bullet LED lights are great for extra visibility and arent expensive.
http://www.bikevis.com/motorcycle-led-running-lights.html
Also I have replaced my crappy old fashion sidelight filament bulb with a a Super White LED bulbs, remember tho you might have to change the polarity of your wiring as LED will only work one way round as they are a diode!
I used one of these 8 led ones from ebay and soldered a bulb base on it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-T10-50...item4600126437
You can get them ready made though
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-White-8...#ht_1758wt_952
Led's will not only use less power they will last mutch longer than bulbs:clap:
I think those little 3 diode lamps are exactly what I want for my bike. As it was originally fit with extra lights and sirens I think it's got a high output alternator. I was thinking I'd like them mounted a little lower, mostly aiming low and a little outward. Because LEDs don't have such a reach I thought they would be good for aiming at the ground about 30-40 feet in front of the bike. I'd like to get these fit low on either side, right "inside" the crash bars, just to protect them. I've also got this spare "Lamp" switch that I'm dieing to do something with.
The same shop seems to sell drop in LED replacements for standard incandescent signal/break lights, etc. I would be especially interested in brighter break lights.
Attachment 6164
Attachment 6165
Alright, I ordered two of the the 15W lights off Taobao and I'll post some pictures of the mounting solution I have in mind as well as some of the effect of the lighting compared to the headlight.
I'm also thinking of getting another set and a bracket to mount another pair in front of the forks. I think that would be nice because they would aim along with the headlight. I've got another spare switch that I could use for those, I think. The switch is between the yellow and blue circles in the last picture.
Attachment 6410
I got the lights. I ordered a set of two with 1" clamps which by the way are also available in silver.
As the TB store says they have 1m of cable are otherwise as pictured. Their face is about the diameter of a racquet ball.
They seem to be very sturdy and I took them down to the batcave to test their fit. The 1" clamps fit perfectly on my crash bars. Right now I'm thinking of sticking them right in the upper outer corner bend on each side. This would also give me the angle I need to lean them further in or out, so spreading the beams horizontally while letting me adjust their height.
Depending on the beams spread and strength I'll adjust them to get good coverage of the ground 20 to 100 feet in front of the bike.
If I'm able to get a bracket made later to mount another set under the headlight I'll focus them ahead of the bike to compliment the headlight and I'll wire them to my second spare light switch.
Once I get them hooked up I'll post some pictures of the light shed by these little guys.
On that note, does anyone have an educated guess at where the best is place to connect them? I'm hoping that I can find a clean solution by rebuilding the connecter that the switch (maybe?) uses already splicing into the bundle that leaves the right cluster seems like it would be messy.
Sorry about the quality of the pictures, the batcave may be safe but it wants for lighting.
Attachment 6450Attachment 6451Attachment 6452Attachment 6453Attachment 6454
Dear Maux,
The lights look great in the mancave. Looking forward to see what kind of beam they throw. Wish I had an idea of how best to wire them. I'm guessing you'll need a relay or two, and will want to switch them from somewhere on your handlebars.
Keep it coming!
I'm going to connect it to a switch which I believe was used for the rear strobe light before it was removed. I've tried to ask about how to wire it (I know it's probably somewhere in the headlight nest) and I think I've got some help arranged, which is a good thing, because I'm no wiz with electrical systems. In this picture this switch is circled in yellow. I'd be quite happy to get this done this week, but we'll see.
Attachment 6502
Dear Maux,
That's one amazing switch -- definitely customized for police use, and very useful if you want different systems switched separately! What's the big slider switch circled in blue? Maybe the siren? Or those spinning blades that come out from the hubs for shredding criminals' tires?
Keep us posted!
Yes? Hymmm, slider switch in blue and the rocker switch bellow it were for the front lights/sirens, I think. There is also an audio jack for a microphone to the left of the slider and it's fun to imagine getting a loudspeaker set up so I could yell at taxis, or offend people for miles around with campsite karaoke.
Yeah the right side cluster is neat but god help me if I need to find a spare for some reason!
No date set for getting together with some Chinese friends and taking a crack at wiring these up.
Hi Maux thanks for sharing! I was almost going to pull the plug on these a couple of days ago, but now that you have yours i'm going to wait until you have them wired up to hear what you think of them first. (if you don't mind)
For the switches, i'm pretty set on simply wiring them up to light with my high beam (via relay). This is because i want to be able to signal people with them using the passing light trigger on the left hand.
When you take photos to compare before and after, use manual settings to make sure both pics are the same shutter speed, aperture and ISO settings. That way you'll have a true comparison.
Thanks for being the guinea pig!
Any update, or pics of the lights installed and working? I'm also interested in how these perform!
Ohhh :rolleyes1: Ahh sorry guys, nothing yet. I've got a multimeter and I've thought about just pulling the thing apart where it is and seeing if I can track down the switches wire but you could just show me a picture of a bunch of wires and it would piss me off, much less having to fiddle around with them. I'm also not quite sure about how to get into the headlight area because its covered by this bullet faring.
The lights are right here by my desk, asking me to put them on whenever I look at them.
Felix, thanks for the tip about exposure and ISO, I'll also try and get pictures of the installation, though it's not much practical use because of the weird switch.
OK! The lights are installed and I'd like to thank some of our wonderful Chinese friends for their help. As it turned out, the installation wasn't too complicated and only took about 30 minutes all said.
Installation: The headlight enclosure comes off by removing 5 bolts, two on either side by the turning signal mounts, and one underneath, if the bike has a chin the last bolt would be right there.
We (they) were looking for for connector that had my switch in it but after a few minutes they asked if they could simply tie it in the to the running lights that are connected to the same triple switch I use for the headlights. I would really rather that they were connected to this other separate switch (the one I mentioned above) but I figured it would just be a matter of finding it later so I opted for the easier route of just connecting them to my headlight switch. The leads were spliced together and fit into the same connecters used for the running lights and taped up a bit and it was done!
Illumination: The new lights are BRIGHT! I road the bike home and adjusted them a little in the garage. Right now I think their basically pointed at a spot on the ground about 80 or 90 meters in front of the bike. Each light sheds two distinct beams, a central beam that is a very even and bright, and a much wider beam that has some gradients, but is basically pretty even. The two wider beams combined shed light (though it's not very bright) in about 140 degrees in front of the bike. The central beams are quite narrow and only focus light in a 10* arch, directly in front of the bike. As of now, the central beams start shedding light about 6 or 7 meters in front of the bike. The top of this "beam cone" would never hit the ground, though I'm trying to keep them bellow the windshield area of most cars. I think they would provide usable additional lighting for about 100 meters in front of the bike, though on a dark road it would probably be more. Now it's very obvious to me that I would like much more lighting out front. I would like to get two of the 30 watt units sold by the same Taobao store and get a bracket made to mount them on either side just under the headlight. In addition I would like to switch the stock headlight bulb for a more powerful one. I could possibly also get all four LED's (90watt total) mounted to the same bracket under the headlight and this would let me play around with the spread and get favorable coverage for the entire area.
Wattage load: As far as I can tell there is no appreciable hit to my voltage at the battery, with my voltage fluctuating between 14.7 and 14.9 with the new lights on or off. The only noticeable drop in voltage was the headlight, which would drop the voltage average to between, 14.5 and 14.6.
Pictures! :clap: (OK, so my camera is a Casio Excilim EX-G1 and it's I can't seem to adjust the shutter speed, but I was using a standard ISO and finally just took pictures until I thought they represented about what I was seeing with my eyes. If one of you guys want to send me one of your nice spare DSLR's I could get some better pictures and it would be well taken care of, unless it's abducted and held for ransom by Somali pirates in which case you might not get it back for several months.)
Attachment 6803This is about what my light testing area looked like with no additional lighting. Also, the bake was slightly angled when I took these so the lights appear a little higher than they would be on level ground.
Attachment 6804My new lights, though you can't tell in the photo, actually shed a lot of light around in the entire visible area, though it actually looks dimmer, this is because my camera doesn't allow me to adjust the shutter speed. With the new lights on I can hardly tell my headlight is on, except for an additional orange hue. I would really like to get these tested out on a dark road to get a sense of how they would work in a more practical setting.
Attachment 6805These are the new lights installed, just about where I wanted them.
Attachment 6806This basically shows the bolt locations and the HUGE wire bundle which comes out of that equally huge switch. Later I figure I can get the lights connected to whichever switch I want, but I also want to add two more under the headlight so I might wait until then to try to hunt down these connection.
Attachment 6807This is the president of the Dalian motorcycle group, Mr. Li. He and the other guys are in the group are all great, very nice and really helpful. Mr. Li knows exactly what he's doing with a bike.
Nice posts, Maux! Thanks for keeping us updated; it looks like the LED lights are a winner! I hate night riding, but will definitely invest in a set of these.
Are you able to adjust their position? Could you, for example, spread the light wider and lower, so you get a wider field of view?
Very nice that you've hooked up with the Dalian club. Ahem, is that Mr Li's bike parked behind you in the picture?
cheers!
Also thinking of getting a pair of these, is saw there's even a 40W version of them. Still trying to figure out where to put them though, would be nice to have 'm light up the road in the direction the bike is going. On top of the front wheel fender perhaps?!