Printable View
hiya, so i have a sinnis apache 125 and cant find anything about replacing the rear break pads. i cant even figure out how to take the caliper off as the rubber things cover the dodgy looking bolts i pulled one off and could take one off but cant see how to get the other one off. anyone have any idea on how to do this lol
Hey could you post a picture?
Normally you'll have a couple of uncovered bolts holding the the caliper assembly onto a mounting plate. A socket wrench should do the trick. If that doesn't sound right, please show us a picture.
take my advice, as it looks like you got no idea what your doing...Quote:
Originally Posted by codewahn
STAY AWAY FROM BRAKE REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE!!!!!!!!
well the bracket is mounted straight onto the swing arm with the wheel so unless i cake off the wheel the caliper isn't coming off, only other way i see is by doing it with the caliper still on the bike or removing the rubber boots and unbolting it that way, rarther not be having to pay £60 for some one to put pads on when it can be used on stuff i need for the bikeQuote:
Originally Posted by TB-Racing
one pic shows the kind of caliper on the bike the rest are of it on the bike the on lt 2 bolts are the ones holding the pads and the ones behind the rubber boots
http://www.piaggiospares.co.uk/spare...8disc%29&uid=0
if you can see that
remove the two small screws #30 then the pads
insert new pads replace screws
check the fluid level because now you just pushed a heap of fluid back up the system
lift the rear wheel of the ground
make sure the brakes work!
done
so just need to remove the bolts without taking off the caliper, i was thinking of that but then illd have to push the piston back in, ill give it a try and see what happensQuote:
Originally Posted by zhu
look carefully at the parts diagram before you start.
the screws (probably allen heads) are on the inside of the caliper(wheel side)
yup i seen them they are bolts that use a spanner ill convince my mate to help me out a bit since hes a mechanic and all hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by zhu
[QUOTE=TB-Racing;56559]take my advice, as it looks like you got no idea what your doing...
STAY AWAY FROM BRAKE REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE!!!!!!!![/QUOTE
one more great helpfull post i see from you unlike other people who have posted picture to help this person the more i read the post you have done the more i disklike you cant wiat to meet you and shake your hand i think not ??
I do hope you guys can get together over beers and bury the hatchet. No one wants to read this stuff.
Cheers
Euphonius
When you manage to work out how to get the calliper off and then remove the pads, be aware that there might some small thin metal pressed items that act as either pressure plates or friction plates that fit around the brake pads at different points. Some motorcycles have them and some don't. It is better to see such pressed metal items before one inadvertently tips the callipers over and discovers the pieces as they fall out, then one has to work out where they fit and how they are orientated. Another little trick is when it is time to force the actual calliper pistons apart to fit the new pads - first get a rag or similar, clean the exterior of the master cylinder reservoir first then place the rag around or near the base of the brake master cylinder reservoir for the brake one is working on. With the rag in place, having made sure to clean top cover and the outside of the master cylinder reservoir, either loosen or remove the reservoir lid. Carefully remove the dust boot/cover under the lid. Once you have broken any vacuum seal that may exist, you can either refit the dust boot/cover or leave it off. MAKE SURE NOT TO USE THE BRAKE WHILE THE LID IS OFF THE RESERVOIR, or you'll increase the chances of introducing air into the brake system/lines and have to bleed them. At this stage, now, one will find it much easier to force the calliper pistons back into the calliper and fit the new pads. Once that is completed, reattach the master cylinder reservoir lid and tighten. Now one can go about the reassembly of the brake calliper to the wheel and brake rotor. Once the brake calliper is reattached against the faces of the brake rotor, (and the brake master cylinder lid is securely fastened) one needs to pump the brakes several times so the brake pads bind against the brake rotor. If the wheel, one is working on is off the ground/floor, spin the wheel (whatever method) and apply the appropriate brake to make sure of its operation. Some might advise bleeding the brake, but it's not necessary if no air has been introduced into the brake system. This is an appropriate time to check the brake fluid level too.
in the end i had to do it with the caliper on the bike wouldn't be able to take it off without taking the wheel off so i just removed one of the slider pins and tilted the caliper over and took the pad retaining bolts out it was a pit of a pain to get the new ones in but got there in the end and it was a harder job than it should have been the guy who designed it must have been drunk or trolling,.
Dear EuphonkusQuote:
Originally Posted by euphonius
you need to speak to TA racing i dont like being called names because i post someting he dont like all i done was trying to help and be friendly you need to read other post from TA on here and you will see sometimes the post is not helpfull or friendly to which MCM is not all about he dont know me and dont have he right to say things which he has done and beleave me the only hatchet i will be burying will be in his fuck head if i meet him as i said TA is his new name TOTAL ASSHOLE ??? he need to start with a open sorry on herer that could help
Yes, just done this job myself, very frustrating, removed the big black rubber plug on the right as you look at the brake, then with the small spanner supplied in the tool kit, unbolted the rear sliding bolt on left as you look at the brake, disconnected the brake hose as well, I found it the only way to get the calliper in a position to change the pads!Quote:
Originally Posted by codewahn
Got there in the end, but, to mount it back again, the Allen bolt on the right was no problem, the one on the left actually screws into the calliper mounting bracket, I had to lever that in and then spanner that back into the mounting bracket - the whole job is far too difficult, shouldn't be so hard, I don't know if there is a better way or not, the Haynes manual has no explanation at all, there is no advice anywhere that I can see.
It might be easier if the wheel is removed first and then the calliper mounting bracket and so on, it really shouldn't be that difficulty and. I'm sure there must be a better way, just be aware that if you want to change your rear brake pads, leave plenty of time and have the tools you need handy, I think the main Allen bolt is 6 or 7mm the bolt on the left. I think is 8mm.
One other thing I did notice was that all the sliding pins were dry and /or rusted corroded, my bike is only 5 months old and it looks like nobody at the shop where it was built bothered to lube any of the pins, all dry, so get some copper grease and clean everything up and grease it.
No no not copper grease! I'm brakeman from NZ!
NzBrakelathes, why not copper grease?
All seems to be working ok, do you know what the best/ easiest method is for replacing the brake pads without taking half the back end apart?
Cheers.
Copper coat is petroleum based and it reacts to rubber causing it to swell in time and semi seize or not able to retract back
It needs high temp silicon based grease
Can't tell you where to get it in china etc
Brembo has it
I use it in NZ for brake pins as the factory should as well
As for changing pads it's little complex but unbolt the caliper
Remove the cradle clean slides
Fit the cradle back and fit pads
Yeah little hard to explain a it's fiddle on a bike and each caliper little different
Laser printer repair guys stocks it. They're using it on fuser unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by NZBrakelathes
The proper product:
http://s.taobao.com/search?spm=a230r...3A1#J_relative
NZBrakelathes/human being,
Thanks Guys, most helpful.
Robin.