Agreed - great topic.

Things are tight in Beijing, at least at the large inspection station by the East 5th ring road (and G1) where most motorcycle registration and inspections are done.

One of my bikes is a single-seater and its registration shows only 1 person. I asked the counter police about how I get the registration changed if I mount the pillion seat and pegs (optional accessories from the dealer). Was told that it is impossible - the bike is a one-seat motorcycle. I then asked the dealer, who confirmed that the registration cannot be changed. The dealer said that if I had purchased the optional pillion seat/pegs with the new bike, prior to initial registration, the bike would have been registered as a 2 passenger bike.

The counter police said that it is possible to change the color. I am not sure if you need prior approval, or if it is ok to just show up at the inspection yard with the bike in its new color.

As for the pictures, that has become quite strict in Beijing. So strict that when a picture is taken during an inspection/transfer, it must perfectly match the original. The matching is done online, by some unknown mystery-person in another building, who will not authorize the final "pass" / "transfer" (online) unless he/she believes it is identical. Amazingly, at the inspection station entrance, there is an assembly of loaner tools to put your bike back to its original condition (remove windscreen, bags, hand guards, etc). At the exit, there is another group of loaner tools to put your parts back on (remount windscreen, bags, hand guards, etc). It is almost comical to watch. TIC.

I use an agent for almost all of my legal plating, transfers, etc. The guy only does motorcycles, five days a week, fifty weeks a year. He tells me that he is frequently frustrated by a non-matching picture. When he did my JH's inspection last year, we had to remove the pannier's mounting frame (aftermarket) and hand guards. Fortunately, the aftermarket exhaust was on the side of the bike that is not in the registration picture.

I think most of the illegal modifications are ignored by the police, until that time when you need your bike to be legal (e.g., after an accident).

I'm guessing that an original dealer might be able to work something out with a necessary engine swap.