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#11 Re: Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information
03-11-2013, 04:16 AM
I haven’t dug into any of the wiring and that’s Not a strong suit here either, but I would do the following to just understand the head light. Get a circuit tester with the light and sharp prong.
I have no direct knowledge of these mods but will throw what I plan on doing to trouble shoot the Mod.
Remove Tank then...
1 Turn the key on and get juice flowing in the wires
2 Trace and Unplug the Headlight harness under the tank
3 Look for the ground they are using for the harness on the rear side of the plug, I believe it’s the ground that’s faulty.
Find the green wire that goes nowhere it just terminates, I believe it was originally used for that European on off switch that is disconnected for the US market.
4 Do a jump from the ground wire from the terminated green to the green on the headlight wire. It grounds the Headlight properly so it doesn’t go thru the voltage relay that messes up the voltage.
5Then re-plug the harness back together. so you will have 2 grounds now and that shouldn’t matter. Or the fluctuating ground wire can be snipped and capped off
Skulworkz As far as the 5 wire to 3 wire change over to the H4 socket should be simple. The extra 2 wires the bike now has are for the small light bulb that comes on before you start the bike as far as I know and come on with the ignition key. simply don’t use those two and cap off.
Again this is my plan and I may be 100 percent wrong but I believe I am correct. I have a new H4 socket I am going to use and it has 3 wires only.
- Here is a Past Posts not sure who’s it was
Dimming headlight problem, really easy to unplug the blue and white wire from the dark green wire and plug it into the other blue and white wire like it should have been in the first place. now my light switch works and my lights don't dim
Sylvania H5006 fits DF 250 RTB sealed Beam Don’t put the Glass back no need Just install the retainer ring back on
Reporon Posted: he solved his light issue by running a wire from the blue and white wires in the headlight to an unused wire in the fake oil box. He thinks it was a problem with the resistor that keeps the headlight from turning on until you actually start the engine. It seems kind of goofy to me how they have that small bulb that comes on when the key is in the "ON" position but then the headlight actually comes on when you start the bike. Why not just have the headlight come on when you turn the key. Regardless, if running a wire from the from the high and low beam wires works
Headlight dimming issue resolved!!! After checking everything out with a friend who has a good knowledge of electrics it is confirmed as reported by Reporon that there is a blue wire with white stripe underneath the left side of the gas tank that connects to a dark green wire. It is the only single wire to single wire connection underneath the tank. For some reason as you rev the engine the voltage actually drops from the dark green wire. SOLUTION: Disconnect the wires, cap the green wire and connect the blue wire with white stripe to one of the black wires which are usually a constant 12V (backwards from the black ground we are used to). Now the headlight comes on with the ignition switch and the headlight gets brighter with the engine RPM's and maintains a constant brightness. Also happy to report that there has been no battery problems wiring the headlight that way
One can either do the Mod in the fake oil tank as above but I guess I would feel a need to start at the stuff under the tank. Hope any of this helps if not the reposts of what others did might .Goodbar with Blue Fanger DF 250 RTB
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