Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

[GonzoX]

Does anyone know where to get a shift rod other than scooter depot?

Go here:

http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...Shift-Rod.html

I would suggest not getting one from scooter depot as you will get the same weak chinese metal one that broke in the first place. 3rd party is the way to go IMHO.

I need a new dipstick but Im going the ebay route to buy a metal one. The cheap plastic one broke way too easy.

And as turns out I got my brake reservoir today and like an idiot I ordered the one with an 8mm hole for the mirror but our mirrors are 10mm so I had to order an 8mm to 10mm converter. Sometimes it pays to pay attention to deatails LOL.

[axa]

Anyone know which NGK D8EA our Dong Fang needs?

since i use amazon alot, i bought this one for $2.60 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ref=pd_rate_rs
i also bought an NGK at the local autozone for the same price, but misplaced it...
But any of the variants would do, that one is cheap and has a longer insulator than the basic and dips further down into the chamber, but if i did it again Id pay the premium for the Iridium tipped, just on the slight chance that it can actually deliver better performance. I find this bike needs every edge i can manage.

[axa]

Well it's always something. Finally did my oil change and I noticed that the plastic section of the stick with the measurements on it snapped off. Unfortunately the broken plastic tip did NOT come out with the old oil when I drained it. I now worry that it may cause problems.

I also want to buy a third party all metal dipstick but I have no clue what size threading our bike has but it seems that the Chinese advertise two sized called either JOC tooth or CG tooth. Im guessing from the photos that we have JOC tooth threading whatever that means.

I did find something like this at first search on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-P...b87007&vxp=mtr

Some of these even have a temp guage added to them. What do you guys think?

Yikes, I'm going to go home today and cut off that dipstick.
Which leads me to ask, why do you really even need a dipstick.
You can visually view the oil window and learn to get the same idea on the level just as you would a dipstick, cant you?

[axa]

The accelerator pump squirts a bit of gas in the carburetor opening every time you twist the throttle to richen up the mixture to provide more power. Take off the air cleaner and twist the throttle with the engine not running and you will see a squirt of gas from one of the pipes in the throat of the carburetor.

So apparently this helps relieve any hesitation that comes into play on the transition between idle and acceleration.
The chart there doesn't seem to take this into account.

[axa]

Go here:

http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...Shift-Rod.html

I would suggest not getting one from scooter depot as you will get the same weak chinese metal one that broke in the first place. 3rd party is the way to go IMHO.

I need a new dipstick but Im going the ebay route to buy a metal one. The cheap plastic one broke way too easy.

And as turns out I got my brake reservoir today and like an idiot I ordered the one with an 8mm hole for the mirror but our mirrors are 10mm so I had to order an 8mm to 10mm converter. Sometimes it pays to pay attention to deatails LOL.

jfyi, you can adequately drill out an 8mm hole to approximately 8.5mm and re-tap the threads for 10mm.
Though i imagine if you had a tap and die set you might have just made a new shift rod as well...

To which I would recommend a set of taps and die to anyone who is interested in collecting tools and working on things like their bikes... Its nice to be able adjust things exactly as you would like..
As an example, i made a new slightly shorter shift rod becuase I needed to practically swing my knee out a good foot to get enough pivot to shift up... shifting was so uncomfortable. Shortening the rod allows you to bring the peg out and down...
I am now experimenting with shorter thinner pegs as well.

[axa]

Did the reverse tube air ram mod today, and while i wont make any recommendations after just one test run, it seems as this may solve my top end sputtering problem.

It also seems that i was ever so slightly better able to hold a bit more speed on slight inclines.
But again i will not draw a conclusion until i make the same run to work and back a few times.
These settings are so subjective and subject to variables, the only way to be sure is over time.

I haven't change any jets yet so i probably should kill the engine, pull the plug and take a reading before deciding what to drill out the main to.

i was a bit skeptical, but i think the proof of concept is valid, i will be looking for a decent air scoop to try in the future.

intake 009 (Large).jpgintake 008 (Large).jpg
doesn't even get in the way...

[barnone]

Did the reverse tube air ram mod today, and while i wont make any recommendations after just one test run, it seems as this may solves my top end sputtering problem.

Looks nice. Chrome 1.5" p trap? How about a bill of materials?

[axa]

Looks nice. Chrome 1.5" p trap? How about a bill of materials?

- this 1-½" Chrome P trap
- this 1-¼" flexible pipe coupling
its the BOM, pun intended.

dont freak out, that pic isnt the exact one, and those links may contain parameters for my local store but the part numbers are exact.

Needed to trim about an inch off one end of the p trap.
And only needed a fraction of that couple, wish it wasn't so cost prohibitive to send you the rest.

Now that it hints our top end sputter night be a lack of air on these 2012 bikes, it would be interesting if you have better luck with this mod and your 120 main jet.
dan uses a 112 anyway. i may start at 114-115

[axa]

barone , you mentioned how you drilled out the cat, and it helped out your top end a bit, i want to do it...

might you confirm for me how deep a hole saw bit is needed to make sure i cut through that ring of weld?
my hold saws are kind of shallow maybe only an inch or so deep.


Also, dying to know how is that 30 tooth doing??

[DanDaMan]

I admit that p trap looks a lot sharper than my U bend radiator hose :p

and the faster u go the better it works 50-55 negligible , near 70 noticeable improvement

but to get that kinda speed youd need bigger front sprocket , meaning a chain change

u can fit a 17 tooth front with 428 HD chain

and remember , a bit lean provides better power