CFMoto 650TR muffler upgrade

**bikerdoc** · 09-24-2013, 10:48 PM

I'm going to be trying out this exhaust in about a weeks time. I placed the order yesterday with the Taobao seller and came to an agreement that if the muffler doesn't fit or perform well then I can return it for a refund. The seller had not sold any to owners of the 650TR only those with the 650NK, so he had no idea if it'd fit or not. So mine will be the first. I'd already taken a look under the engine and how the OEM muffler and box of restrictions fits and from the photos, looks like it should be a suitable fit.
Fingers crossed it fits and works.

cf650 muffler-1.jpg

It certainly is a much cheaper proposition than the IXIL's offered on Taobao for the CF650's, but feel it's worth it. If it works great, if not I'll send it back and then consider if I'll go with an IXIL at triple to four times and even higher prices.

EDIT:
I''d planned to disconnect the battery for at least 10 minutes after fitting, then reconnecting to see if the ECU/ECM recalibrates itself - defaults. Wasn't needed. Bike started right on up, no coughing, spluttering, hesitation, or off idle. No popping, farting, misfiring or back-firing.

650tr_muffler_15.jpg

I like the look of the muffler, short and stubby. This is what I like about the OEM muffler/exhaust, in that it's short enough that it doesn't get in the way of the RHS swing arm and wheel. I would prefer this after market one, had the outlet pipe turned more to the RHS as the OEM does, but one can't have everything.

650tr_muffler_16.jpg

I'm not searching for any substantial increase in dB, just a little more throaty sound and deep rumble at idle would be nice, as well as freeing 'er up just a tad... by removing that restricting box slung underneath which weighs like a tonne. OK, more like 5-6kg then. It's a bloody heavy contraption CFMoto had slung under there.

650tr_muffler_14.jpg

**bikerdoc** · 09-24-2013, 10:50 PM

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650tr_muffler_07.jpg

**bikerdoc** · 09-24-2013, 10:52 PM

650tr_muffler_08.jpg

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**998S** · 09-25-2013, 04:06 AM

Originally Posted by bikerdoc

I plan to disconnect the battery for at least 10 minutes after fitting, then reconnecting to see if the ECU/ECM recalibtrates itself - defaults

How will that work?
If your bike is fitted with an injection with a O2sensor, and runs in the so-called 'closed loop', it should adjust nevertheless.
This is however applied across the entire fuel-map range, might help a bit in case you fit an aftermarket exhaust, but changes nothing on the fuel-map itself.
It is also dragging (it only adjusts based upon previous readings), so is never accurate to adjust for a fixed modification.

**bikerdoc** · 09-25-2013, 05:41 AM

It's an idea, since fitting the muffler will remove the OEM catalytic converter and other associated restrictions, though I'm hopeful that the muffler will have adequate packing inside to filter out most of the nasties. As far as I have read there are two methods, to assist in recalibrating for the addition of the exhaust (lean versus rich).

1). reprogram using the manufacturers computer module plugged into the ECU/ECM pigtail... not an option round here it would seem. Was, but that shop has closed.

2. Another option disconnect bike battery and leave for 5 mins. Reconnect battery, start engine, leave idling for 3 mins (don't touch throttle) then turn off ignition using key. Turn on ignition key and restart the engine. ECU/ECM will default all the values within the fuel map tables. Brain reboot...
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...-slip-on-pipes

3. Another post elsewhere simply advised just disconnecting battery for 8-10 mins, and then reconnect and the ECU/ECM should default all the values within the fuel map tables. Also brain reboot...

This is as far as I can recall, and made sense when I read them. Option 2) & 3) is relevant for those without access to the recalibration computer module - which is my case.

**prince666** · 09-25-2013, 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by bikerdoc

It's an idea, since fitting the muffler will remove the OEM catalytic converter and other associated restrictions, though I'm hopeful that the muffler will have adequate packing inside to filter out most of the nasties. As far as I have read there are two methods, to assist in recalibrating for the addition of the exhaust (lean versus rich).

1). reprogram using the manufacturers computer module plugged into the ECU/ECM pigtail... not an option round here it would seem. Was, but that shop has closed.

2. Another option disconnect bike battery and leave for 5 mins. Reconnect battery, start engine, leave idling for 3 mins (don't touch throttle) then turn off ignition using key. Turn on ignition key and restart the engine. ECU/ECM will default all the values within the fuel map tables. Brain reboot...
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...-slip-on-pipes

3. Another post elsewhere simply advised just disconnecting battery for 8-10 mins, and then reconnect and the ECU/ECM should default all the values within the fuel map tables. Also brain reboot...

This is as far as I can recall, and made sense when I read them. Option 2) & 3) is relevant for those without access to the recalibration computer module - which is my case.

Hi Doc

you should be ok with option 2 & 3 .....

All this procedure requires is powering down the ECU. Meaning removing the constant power supply the ECU has that maintains the RAM and hence any data the ECU has stored itself. To do this you can either disconnect the battery or disconnect the ECU. I tend to unplug the ECU as that way I don’t have to reset the clock afterwards. but in your case with the TR it would just be nice to re-set the clock if you had one lol I don’t know how long it takes, so I give it 5 to 15 minutes for superstition and plug it back in again.

**998S** · 09-25-2013, 12:53 PM

Originally Posted by prince666

All this procedure requires is powering down the ECU. Meaning removing the constant power supply the ECU has that maintains the RAM and hence any data the ECU has stored itself.

Sorry to say, but this is total BS advise.

It is totally useless to reset a AFV (Adaptive Fuel Value) as it will start adjusting again immediately after you start the engine.
And it does not matter if the last AFV value is from your last ride, or from a reset.
It will adjust within anything from 2-15 minutes.

The only time a AFV is re-set is when you are adjusting a fuel map, to prevent mis-interpretation of the values for each block .
But that is not the case here.

If you don't know what you are talking about, that is no shame, but don't set other people on the forum on the wrong footing.

**prince666** · 09-25-2013, 01:21 PM

I had no intentions to set people on the forum on the wrong footing it must of been BAD advise i was give then and i am sure Bikerdoc is thinking a long the same lines as well so would you be so kind as to what he can do then when someone fits a new exhaust as regards to the ECU
Ho by the way i dont have bad eyes so small fonts are ok

Bad advise was found here part number 3 ...

http://www.wikihow.com/Repair-Your-Vehicle-%28Basics%29

And bad advise found here a well

http://www.ftooc.org/forum/archive/i...p/t-47422.html

cybatrix
10-06-2010, 19:55
Did you do an ECU reset after fitting the decat?

General rule of thumb is to do an ECU reset immediately after making any performance modifications in order to recalibrate it's self.

After fitting a sports cat my FTO didn't respond very well at low revs. An ECU reset sorted that out.

You can't get the FTO ECU remapped you'll have to get piggyback ECU which isn't cheap.

A sports cat will be no different in performance than a de-cat and seeing as your car was built in 1994 you don't need a cat anyway to pass the MOT.
CaptainK
11-06-2010, 15:14
Another thing to check is that when they installed the exhaust and decat they didn't knock the lambda sensor and thus make it read weirdly and thus make the engine run badly. But as said above, do an ECU reset first and see if that makes a change. Could also be that your new exhaust has a blockage in it somewhere - you never know.

shit i am not having a good day with all this bad advise

But thanks for pointing this out to me

**998S** · 09-25-2013, 11:39 PM

I am really not going to argue with you, if you think that internet info proves your right.
You can probably also prove that Jesus Christ was female, the 9/11 attacks were an inside job, and the pope a Russian secret agent.

What I am saying is that adding a (normally higher flow) aftermarket exhaust is a significantly change in the hardware of the engine.
It will change the mixture flow and timing, and needs to be compensated in fuel flow, fuel timing and ignition timing if you want to optimise it.

All I say before is, that if you know how a closed loop system works, you will know that the AFV can't really compensate for that.
It might compensate a bit at certain times, but is not a fix.

You might find out that you don't have backfires after a hot city stop-and-go, then got the backfire back after a smooth highway ride.
This is because it learns from past-time, and also only adjusts if it is in closed-loop.
If you ride in open-loop (which is probably a lot in China), the AFV part is completely disconnected, and the bike runs on the standard settings.

With regards to Bikerdoc, it seems he is totally aware of the technical limitations he will face. He knows there is nothing much more to do without access to the ECU software itself.

And all I added to that is that resetting things should go automatically on this point, no need to perform externally.

**prince666** · 09-26-2013, 12:56 AM

I am really not going to argue with you, if you think that internet info proves your right.
You can probably also prove that Jesus Christ was female, the 9/11 attacks were an inside job, and the pope a Russian secret agent.

What I am saying is that adding a (normally higher flow) aftermarket exhaust is a significantly change in the hardware of the engine.
It will change the mixture flow and timing, and needs to be compensated in fuel flow, fuel timing and ignition timing if you want to optimise it.

All I say before is, that if you know how a closed loop system works, you will know that the AFV can't really compensate for that.
It might compensate a bit at certain times, but is not a fix.

You might find out that you don't have backfires after a hot city stop-and-go, then got the backfire back after a smooth highway ride.
This is because it learns from past-time, and also only adjusts if it is in closed-loop.
If you ride in open-loop (which is probably a lot in China), the AFV part is completely disconnected, and the bike runs on the standard settings.

With regards to Bikerdoc, it seems he is totally aware of the technical limitations he will face. He knows there is nothing much more to do without access to the ECU software itself.

And all I added to that is that resetting things should go automatically on this point, no need to perform externally.

Who is aruguing... the whole point of forums is for people to give points of view and to exchange information and to learn! you have in this post made your point of view to which i understand now so thank you for that ... was jesus Christ was not a female then ???? that is news to me