Man.. I was thinking of doing something like this next year. What I've read has really put me off.. I do a lot of rides and you know.. I get some fantastic places and people off the beaten path. I simply totally fucking object to the ridiculous prices they charge to see a rebuilt piece of garbage and can't stand the crowds.. So.. Stuff it.. I'm going to head way down south to the places less travelled. Kudos to you though mate for having put yourself through that..