Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

**barnone** · 07-05-2013, 04:34 PM

I used my Harmonizer to adjust the idle air/fuel screw on the bottom of the carb and also verified the tachometer reading. It's a neat tach but is slow to respond so you see a little difference.
The stock (blue marks which were off a little before adjusting) setting on the screw seemed to be just right after I set it.

IMG_2118.JPG

IMG_2120.jpg

Yesterday I removed the tank and got some slack n the wire going to the ignition switch so I could mount it right side up in the place where the air pump was mounted.

Got a ride in between rain showers with the 35 tooth rear sprocket and she went up my steep gravel drive just fine in first gear. I'm gonna break her in slow so no top speed runs yet but first gear is now useful.

Also made a plate to block the hole where the air injection tube was.

She seems nice and solid with very little vibration.

**birdmove** · 07-05-2013, 06:13 PM

I've read about owners moving the ignition switch, but somehow never read where it is originally mounted at?. Where is it mointed on a stock Dong Fang bobber?

**chruk bashre** · 07-05-2013, 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by birdmove

I've read about owners moving the ignition switch, but somehow never read where it is originally mounted at?. Where is it mointed on a stock Dong Fang bobber?

Chpboba-1 - Copy.jpg

**chruk bashre** · 07-05-2013, 06:46 PM

to clean up the SAIS removal because the big ugly bracket stays, you would put the ignition in its place. unless you cut the bracket off. then it looks like this.

chpbobdone1.jpg

**axa** · 07-05-2013, 07:08 PM

Originally Posted by 4950cycle

You can sound as smart as you would like axa. And yes, I know all about ratio math and numbers. I've built home made multi ratio power transmissions from scratch with belts and pulleys successfully ( I could send you pictures of my two speed belt driven motored bicycle that works like a charm). But the number of teeth on any said sprocket directly correlate to the circumference of same sprocket hence dictating what final ratio you end up with. All I was saying is, We noticed and was told by our local motorcycle mechanic when we were kids " you can add one tooth to your front (drive) sprocket or lose 4 on your rear to get the same (or very close to) end final ratio result. That's how we did it and it worked is all I can tell you. Now when you build a transmission from scratch , you have a lot more variables than what sprocket to use. Try having to figure out how much distance your drive tire OD covers per revolution and the list goes on. And I never said take 4 from the back "AND" add one to the front. I said do either or ! Not both !

Ya, send me some pics you downloaded off the internet, mr potty mouth.

**axa** · 07-05-2013, 07:12 PM

Originally Posted by barnone

I used my Harmonizer to adjust the idle air/fuel screw on the bottom of the carb and also verified the tachometer reading. It's a neat tach but is slow to respond so you see a little difference.
The stock (blue marks which were off a little before adjusting) setting on the screw seemed to be just right after I set it.

IMG_2118.JPG

IMG_2120.jpg

Yesterday I removed the tank and got some slack n the wire going to the ignition switch so I could mount it right side up in the place where the air pump was mounted.

Got a ride in between rain showers with the 35 tooth rear sprocket and she went up my steep gravel drive just fine in first gear. I'm gonna break her in slow so no top speed runs yet but first gear is now useful.

Also made a plate to block the hole where the air injection tube was.

She seems nice and solid with very little vibration.

Im not sure why i want to, but i think I want to move my ignition as well...
That or put in some High Low snail horns, with the engine going I can hardly hear the the stock button horn, so how can i expect some old lady that cuts me off to hear it...

**barnone** · 07-05-2013, 07:14 PM

Originally Posted by axa

And you don't have any trouble when doing valves?
Im not sure why i want to, but i think I may move my ignition as well...

No trouble doing valve adjustment.

**birdmove** · 07-05-2013, 07:15 PM

I think you can adjust the valves without removing the gas tank. Is this correct?

**barnone** · 07-05-2013, 09:28 PM

Originally Posted by birdmove

I think you can adjust the valves without removing the gas tank. Is this correct?

Yes.Correct.

**4950cycle** · 07-05-2013, 11:41 PM

I guess you could get the head off also without removing the tank, No ? I would like to do some head work and get an extra couple ponies in the near future. One less thing I have to deal with leaving the tank alone.