Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

**chruk bashre** · 02-16-2013, 05:27 PM

**chruk bashre** · 02-17-2013, 04:12 PM

**skullworkz** · 02-17-2013, 04:43 PM

Originally Posted by vind

Well I do have aquestion, I already ordered a side mount bracket, I know the light will fit on it but How much work can I expect when rerouting the wiring outside of the fender?

Also, how much thread is left on the axle once the mount is in place? Do I have to consider that?

Here is the mount I ordered, the thickness seems to be ~ 1/4 inch.

License plate bracket

One more thing, what is that cylinder some of you have installed on the crank case exhaust fight before the air filter?

Re-routing the wiring is no big deal other than having to remove the rear wheel. You have plenty of wire to run it up the rear chainstay and use black zipties to fasten it. As far as the plate bracket, 1/4" may be pushing it. Keep in mind that the chain tensioner will be in your way. I would imagine with a well placed drill bit you could make a hole for it to pass through. I scalloped mine to make room for this. My bracket is about half that thickness and it just fit. Check and see how much thread is coming out of the bolt that is not used and that will be about what you have to work with. You are going to want that nut to be fully seated on the axle for safety reasons I shouldn't have to explain. And the cylinder you are seeing is a glass fuel filter, mine is a Mr. Gasket. I think Goodbars is a Spectra from Advanced Auto or Pep Boys. If you are going to do this MOD buy 2, one for the MOD and one to replace the crappy fuel filter that is already installed on your bike. Also, be gentle when opening up the tabs on the outside of the fender as the paint is really brittle and will crack and fall off exposing bear metal that can and will rust. If this happens, as it probably will use some clear fingernail polish to protect the metal from rust damage. I found out that the spokes on this bike will rust FAST. I spent 2 hours polishing them with WD40 after riding in semi-damp (not rain) conditions. They started rusting in tiny little freckle spots. Wheels are going to be broke down and spokes are going to powdercoat.

**vind** · 02-17-2013, 11:17 PM

I noticed the same thing with my spokes too. Bits of rust are forming where they meet the rim. Sadly I store my bike outside under a cover that doesn't completely keep the bike dry and clean.

Anyway, I'm waiting on my 35t sprocket to come in. I'm going to move the light, mount the bracket, adjust the chain and replace the sprocket all in one go. I guess we'll see how smoothly that works out. Going off skull's information I'm feeling a bit apprehensive about the bracket, ha ha.

**chruk bashre** · 02-18-2013, 05:02 PM

**chruk bashre** · 02-18-2013, 05:04 PM

**chruk bashre** · 02-18-2013, 05:22 PM

**freezerboy** · 02-18-2013, 09:47 PM

Originally Posted by chruk bashre

freezerboy- was that you who used a smaller chain and bigger front sprocket?

No, that was not me.

**Babyswiss** · 02-19-2013, 01:26 AM

Chruk: Post #952: Headlight dimming issue resolved!!! After checking everything out with a friend who has a good knowledge of electrics it is confirmed as reported by Reporon that there is a blue wire with white stripe underneath the left side of the gas tank that connects to a dark green wire. It is the only single wire to single wire connection underneath the tank. For some reason as you rev the engine the voltage actually drops from the dark green wire. SOLUTION: Disconnect the wires, cap the green wire and connect the blue wire with white stripe to one of the black wires which are usually a constant 12V (backwards from the black ground we are used to). Now the headlight comes on with the ignition switch and the headlight gets brighter with the engine RPM's and maintains a constant brightness. Also happy to report that there has been no battery problems wiring the headlight that way.