2010 CFMoto Jetmax 250 Scooter

[bikerdoc]

26 Jul 14 - Updates so far....

Footmats
The footmats on the Jetmax are made of semi dense rubber material which is ok, but I've found the Studs on the underneath of the mats which fit into the floor panels to hold them in place do not all align correctly. Maybe the rubber shrinks or expands with temperature changes or more likely they were made to the same slack tolerences as some of the other parts, who knows, but the end result is that it stops the floor mats from fitting flush with the floor panels and just as with some of the plastics on this bike, it just doesn't look good. So, I cut the offending studs off the bottom of the mats and replaced with velcro tabs. Now the mats fit nice and snug and stay in place and can still be removed as and when necessary for access to the panel bolts.

Haven't experienced this with my Jetmax. Actually, I had the RHS rubber mat off several times within the past month as I found the starter relay needed replacing, that meant removal of the RHS 'floor board' as the relay sits very tight underneath the RHS bike frame (underneath floor board). Rubber mates sit firm and flush. It might be a case of expansion and shrinkage which will likely differ due to environmental factors etc. Also if the little rubber grommets weren't aligned correctly from the get go (ex-factory), then it's likely the mats won't sit correctly. Sometimes a little finesse or brute force while holding ones tongue in the right manner/position is required to affect a desirable outcome.

Battery tender
The battery on this machine is located in such a ridiculous location (underneath the front wheel arch) that it makes it unreasonably difficult to do any kind of battery maintenance or even put it on a charger when you need to as you have to crawl about underneath the front wheel arch in order to get a battery cover off and any clips attached to the terminals. So, as I do not intend to use the bike in the winter I will need to have a battery tender attender giving the battery a regular boost during this extended period of downtime. So, I attached the female end of the tender lead permanantly to the battery and ran the wire up into the front storage locker area via the bottom left hand side hinge (which is directly over the battery bay), and secured the lead with a clip tie. Now I just open up the storage area and connect the tender up as and when required. Job done!

In the front lockable cubby, next to the seat release latch, there is a cylindrical fuse in a white plastic housing with a high gauge red wire in/out each end. Open that plastic housing and attach a positive electrode from a battery tender or similar, and simply find a grounding point (for me I've fitted a multiplug accessory adapter which is secrured with a metal band - the band acts as a good earth), and job done. Battery will charge using this method. But as stated, battery access is one PITA. Removal of front wheel or front tupperware alleviates some of the angst in this regard. Worthwhile noting if other work is being undertaken...

Rear Shocks
As has been reported elsewhere on this and other sites, the rear shocks are a little soft and will need adjusting up to a higher setting if you want to get around the twisties without grounding out on the footstand! Even at their highest adjustment, the bike will still ground out if you are two up and you go into a corner with any kind of dip or bump on it. This is not only dangerous and risks lifting the rear wheel off of the tarmac, but it also makes you look like a bit of a tw*t to those following or the frightened pedestrians witnessing sparks flying out from underneath a scooter accompanied by a deathly grinding screech!!! Soooo, rather than swapping out the rear shocks for a pair that are a little more up-to-job (and of course expensive), I've sent away for a set rear shock extenders which will give me an extra 3cm of clearance, which combined with the higher setting on the shocks should keep the footstand off of the ground when cornering. They haven't arrived yet so I can't give you a definite answer, but if you are having the same problem and are interested, then this is where I got them from. http://tinyurl.com/oetgwk3

I fitted standard radial tyres (Bridgestone Battlax's) front and rear, which lift the scoot an inch or two over all, therefore ground clearance is raised. This required the centre stand to be adjusted to compensate. Something that might need addressing in the case of fitting rear shock extenders as the end result will be similar - altered ground clearance with the centre stand not touching down as anticipated.