Dong Fang DF 250 RTB Bobber Information

[barnone]

Barone would you please explain the benefit of changing the jets how you are doing.
I certainly find a lag past 2/3 or 3/4 throttle so i imagine the high speed should be changed.
So did you solve such an issue with the 108?

But how about the low speed? What problem are you finding?

Bob was right about the upgrade in the main jet so maybe it does not need to be changed.
I was experiencing the lag you mentioned and I found a post where I went to a 108 on the 2010 but I haven't ridden the bike since I changed the jet from a 105 to a 108. I'll try it tomorrow if the rain lets up.
Also I want to check the needle setting before I fool with the low speed jet.

[barnone]

no one busted my ass for that johnny pag thing. that was the point really. same motorcycle, for 5000BUCKS!. also no one laughed at my tool bag offer.
it was all supposed to be funny, for a laugh. or some one might say, wow, you sure are lucky to not have had all those problems like we did. did i mention no battery leak or trouble there in the box at all? some how i got the lucky draw.
but instead its 'who got nuthin for what'. the point is, fun, and not, the asking price. but thats all that came out of it. i joined back in to heat the heaters.
mentioned lately, how things get distorted, and some maybe even get pushy towards folks around in here, when it is really just a gigantic chat room for df guys to have fun. no one wants to read shit like,"oh yeah poopie face, my calculator goes to 11". whothefuckcares. does your bike only go to 11? then we care.

chruk,
I don't understand what you are saying?
We don't need to get in an argument over the 2010 model versus the 2012 model. They are both fine.

[Bob form NV]

Barnone , your brains seem fine to me, I aim to pick them as much as I can.

I read somewhere here that the motor power peaks at a lower rpm than 8000. Can't remember where it said but I do know that at about 2/3 throttle I hit a sweet spot and any thing more it starts to vibrate and act up. Where I live it is dry and dusty. I often find myself going through clouds of wind swept dust or back wash from cars coming out onto the highway. The chicken wire air filter that came with the bike had me worried so I got a filter that is way denser and I'm sure it restricts the air flow some. By the looks of my plug the carb mix is perfect.

I think I'm going to do the rear sprocket change next. Besides the sprocket is all I need is the 10" snap ring pliers and the chain breaker as far as special tools?

[barnone]

Barnone , your brains seem fine to me, I aim to pick them as much as I can.

I read somewhere here that the motor power peaks at a lower rpm than 8000. Can't remember where it said but I do know that at about 2/3 throttle I hit a sweet spot and any thing more it starts to vibrate and act up. Where I live it is dry and dusty. I often find myself going through clouds of wind swept dust or back wash from cars coming out onto the highway. The chicken wire air filter that came with the bike had me worried so I got a filter that is way denser and I'm sure it restricts the air flow some. By the looks of my plug the carb mix is perfect.1

I think I'm going to do the rear sprocket change next. Besides the sprocket is all I need is the 10" snap ring pliers and the chain breaker as far as special tools?

What filter did you get and where? I'm not crazy about the wire mesh one as I got a good look at it when I swapped out the jet and I don't see it doing much filtering. Also I need to a little filter for the crankcase vent.

I didn't have my chain break or 10" snap ring pliers when I replaced my rear sprocket. I used my grinder to break the chain by grinding the rivets down and driving out the link with a nail set type punch. I removed the snap ring with a smaller set of snap ring pliers and small screwdriver to pry it up. One of the troubles with having multiple places to live is that your tools are always in the other place.

Hopefully my tag will come from Florida soon so I can ride without worrying about getting caught.

[Bob form NV]

This is the filter I got. http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster...od-air-filters Spendy but not as much as but similar to the K&N. I had to modify it a bit by grinding a groove around the clamping flange so that things would clear the throttle mech. Model # is 3070940. Works good and looks nice I think. If you click my picture on the thread you can see what it looks like installed on my bike. The small breather I got at work, 3/8' pipe thread fits and works real nice also. I only have the one place but seems like every time I need a tool it's not where it's suppose to be.

Does the sprocket go on with out any mods except the chain length? I see some are making spacers, grinding things and buying bolts.

[axa]

This is the filter I got. http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster...od-air-filters Spendy but not as much as but similar to the K&N. I had to modify it a bit by grinding a groove around the clamping flange so that things would clear the throttle mech. Model # is 3070940. Works good and looks nice I think. If you click my picture on the thread you can see what it looks like installed on my bike. The small breather I got at work, 3/8' pipe thread fits and works real nice also. I only have the one place but seems like every time I need a tool it's not where it's suppose to be.

Does the sprocket go on with out any mods except the chain length? I see some are making spacers, grinding things and buying bolts.

I made a spacer, i asked around and only found one other that did also.
If these JTR sprockets are all the same, i cant see how others are getting away with out it.
its about .055 thinner off the hub which makes it sit about half that toward the wheel...
thats nearly 1/32" off from stock, i don't see how that wont ware over time

Or maybe it just happens that original sprockets were out of alignment and the new ones fix it up... thats not what i observed though

[barnone]

It appears to me that the alignment marks where the rear axle goes through the slots are off quite a bit. Has anyone noticed that?
I measured from a rod stuck through the unused mounting holes on the engine on both sides to align the rear wheel. Plus a straight edge on the sprockets to check. Maybe since the chain is so long that the alignment is not that critical.

I don't have a spacer like axa nor did I have one on my ex 2010. Not saying it is not needed.

Of course watch the clearance between the wheel and tail light wiring. I am looking at moving the tail light a bit up the fender. I really don't want to chop the fender since I seem to riding in the mud and wet so much.

Like Bob's air cleaner solution.

[Bob form NV]

I made a spacer, i asked around and only found one other that did also.
If these JTR sprockets are all the same, i cant see how others are getting away with out it.
its about .055 thinner off the hub which makes it sit about half that toward the wheel...
thats nearly 1/32" off from stock, i don't see how that wont ware over time

Or maybe it just happens that original sprockets were out of alignment and the new ones fix it up... thats not what i observed though

What did you use for shim stock?

[axa]

What did you use for shim stock?

I had some standard 18 gauge galvanized sheet stock laying around, which at .0516" is almost a perfect displacement for what i measured the difference to be .050 to .055
I have no idea if all of these JTR sprockets are standard size so its best to first look at your alignment and just to be sure it is proper now.
I just assumed it was and then the replacement was out of alignment. This would be difficult to tell by eye, therefore i just determined it was proper with the stock spacers.
Then look at the new sprocket geometry and determine what the displacement is compared to the stock.
Then you will know what size spacer you will need.

[Bob form NV]

thanks axa