The rewarding us with punishment tour

[SabineHartmann]

isn`t there anybody outside who can publish books? on MCM are so may great ride reports, let`s put them together and it will become a bestseller !!!!

[ChinaV]

Day 11

It was a bit cold as we got up that morning. Our campsite was at an elevation of 2600 meters (8500 feet) and the mountains blocked any sunlight from coming through. We slowly packed up, each of us wrestling with a small hangover from the previous nights hooch, and then remembered we had promised to stop at the old man's house for a cup of tea before heading on our way. We arrived at his house and he was ready and waiting for us. There was a kettle on the stove and he slowly mixed together a huge hunk of Yak butter with tea, and a few other ingredients, inside a big chandong. He pumped the chandong over and over to churn the mixture, and then strained the concoction into several beautiful porcelain bowls. Not a bad brew, but not something I would choose to drink every day. It goes down like 10W40 and ends up feeling like straight fifty weight sitting in your gut a few hours later. Along with our yack butter tea, he offered us some barley flour. First you throw a big heap of barley flower into your mouth, then you wash it down with some tea. Feels like swallowing concrete. Around eleven o'clock we finally bid him farewell and thanked him for his friendship and hospitality. Here's a picture of the very kind, very friendly, old man. Can you believe he's 76?



What a beautiful day for traveling along the Wuliang River.





A row of stupas with some kids playing alongside the road. I think it was shortly after here that we saw our first four wheel vehicle in almost two days.





Another huge pile of Mani stones.



Women making their way home for lunch after working in the fields all morning.



Around one o'clock we finally reached pavement near the beginning of route S216. It had been two and half days of wonderful dirt riding, and I was a bit sad to be on blacktop again. We noticed Daniel's rear tire was almost flat, so we decided to head north to DaoCheng to find lunch and make repairs. Fortunately it was a slow leak from a small thorn, and the only puncture we experienced during the whole trip.



After a quick blast up this immaculate road, we found a small motorcycle shop and pulled out our spare tube, as they didn't have one in the correct size. We breezed through the tire change and then feasted at one of the towns nicer restaurants. We were all pretty famished from lack of decent food over the last couple days.



We headed back down S216 through more valleys and Tibetan towns as we made our way south towards Yading. The road was in very good condition, with the exception of a few construction areas, and it was starting to become obvious this was a popular tourist route.



Many of the kids along the road would wave and say hello. A stranger occurrence was the number of kids saluting us, I have no idea what that was all about.



I stopped at this beautiful monastery that was still under construction and took a quick peek inside.



We arrived at the town of Riwa around six o'clock after a very rewarding day, time for some punishment. There are three Shangri Las that I know of. One is a fictional place described in the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton. Another is the town of Zhongdian, renamed in 2001, to attract tourists. The third is the town we happened to be sitting in at that moment. If you want to ensnare the masses in China, just name your city Shangri La and watch them pour in. I think it's safe to say that if you're in a place named Shangri La, you're definitely not in Shangri La, as I'm sure Mr. Hilton never imagined concrete tiled buildings and tour buses as part of the mystical valley he describes in his book. I'm also quite certain he never envisioned all access to the area would be cut off with the exception of one road that had a toll gate.

The toll into the "Yading Nature Reserve" was 150 Yuan (about $22 US Dollars). Based on per capita income, that would be roughly equivalent to spending $220 US Dollars to look at Yosemite or the Grand Canyon. I'm not a cheap charlie, but if there's one thing I just wont do in China anymore is pay stupid fees to look at nature. I asked the boys if they wanted to go in and they just shook their heads, it wasn't the fee, it was where the fee would end up. [/RANT]

A last picture from the day, just outside of where we were hoping to go camping.



Dejected, we tried to find some other dirt roads but met with heavy construction and more inhospitable terrain. It was getting late and we were losing light. We decided the only safe thing to do was back track towards DaoCheng which was over 100 kilometers away. Fortunately, I remembered seeing a little hot springs resort about 35 kilometers back and we managed to pull in just as it got dark. The place was clean and had a huge hot spring swimming pool. Better yet, the place was mostly empty and they had cold beer. Rewarded again!

Cheers!
ChinaV

Distance = 195 Kilometers - Time = 8:00 Hours - Average Moving Speed = 43 kph

[jape]

"Fortunately, I remembered seeing a little hot springs resort about 35 kilometers back and we managed to pull in just as it got dark. The place was clean and had a huge hot spring swimming pool. Better yet, the place was mostly empty and they had cold beer. Rewarded again"

Now that was fortuitous indeed. You are obviously making enough thanks and appreciation (libations? lol) to the local spirits as you go, and observing protocol with the elders. That will keep you safe and happy. Thanks for all the photos, they are good to see, especially the people. The smallest touches of adornment or decoration make them interesting and different despite the many 'western' clothes. I found that by scrolling the pic up to lose the heads, you can still sense the foreign or rather 'exotic'. i am really enjoying this trip with you guys. I feel that despite the many modern encroachments including turning the whole region into a pay for entry theme park, the natural, perhaps tribal or regional differences will hang on for a while yet. Do you feel that or do you see it as all disappearing too quickly?

Another thing I notice is that despite what seems like inhospitable and poor terrain, every little portion that can possibly be terraced and farmed is utilised. Some lessons there for us wasteful westerners. Is it all down to a chemical and additive free diet so 'night soil' can go to the land rather than the sea i wonder?

[moilami]

Day 11

Can you believe he's 76?



Distance = 195 Kilometers - Time = 8:00 Hours - Average Moving Speed = 43 kph

No, I can't believe xD I would not had been bothered of that though. It was a very nice gesture from him and for me it would had been one of the highlights of the trip to drink weird tea made by him in that fancy tea pot.

Thank you of the great report.

[ZMC888]

The toll into the "Yading Nature Reserve" was 150 Yuan (about $22 US Dollars). Based on per capita income, that would be roughly equivalent to spending $220 US Dollars to look at Yosemite or the Grand Canyon. I'm not a cheap charlie, but if there's one thing I just wont do in China anymore is pay stupid fees to look at nature. I asked the boys if they wanted to go in and they just shook their heads, it wasn't the fee, it was where the fee would end up. [/RANT]

+1
Whenever you pay it always seems like you been ripped off blind, that 20 yuan would have adequately covered the costs of their poorly paid staff, so who gets the new beemer?

Most wealthy Chinese like the high fee as:
1. They never pay face price always get a discount so always feel they are saving money.
2. Chinese often love to feel that they are 'exclusive' with a high cost keeping the peasants out.
3. Their guests are made to feel they are special with a high price being paid, and they are being 'treated'. It's all a cultural phenomenon connected to 'face'.

Some inventive parking and trekking can usually circumnavigate the need to pay to see nature!

There are very probably prettier places you rode through anyway. Judging from the photos it would be hard to top some of the views.

[ChinaV]

Thanks for all the nice comments everyone, really does keep me going.

moilami,
I have to say, that kind old man was a major highlight of my last ten years living in China. Truly one of the nicest people I have met here and just a fantastic combination of wisdom and humor.

I feel that despite the many modern encroachments including turning the whole region into a pay for entry theme park, the natural, perhaps tribal or regional differences will hang on for a while yet. Do you feel that or do you see it as all disappearing too quickly?

Another thing I notice is that despite what seems like inhospitable and poor terrain, every little portion that can possibly be terraced and farmed is utilized. Some lessons there for us wasteful westerners. Is it all down to a chemical and additive free diet so 'night soil' can go to the land rather than the sea i wonder?

Jape,
Unfortunately the "Real China" is rapidly fading away and that is one of the reasons touring it now is so important to me. I can easily see a situation where, in twenty years, everything interesting will be an exploited theme park. Very few of the younger generation is interested in hanging with their elders and most of them head for the cities abandoning their traditional ways. I think this is true in almost all cultures across the globe.

"Chemical and additive free diet". Maybe they're not addicted to high fructose corn syrup, but the food here is not even remotely safe. Although it would appear that the farm lifestyle is in harmony with nature, the massive abuse of fertilizers and pesticides has left the countries water supply devastated.

There are so many good lessons Western countries can learn from "old" China, and unfortunately the "new" China seem to be repeating our mistakes. The scary part is, it's on a scale far, far, bigger than any westerner could ever imagine.

More good stuff coming soon.

Cheers!
ChinaV

[CrazyCarl]

isn`t there anybody outside who can publish books? on MCM are so may great ride reports, let`s put them together and it will become a bestseller !!!!

I fully agree! Trip reports as fantastic as this one can certainly go in Adventure Motorcycle Magazine. The photos are there, it's all about the writing and I'd LOVE it if we could get some regular China representation in every issue.

MCM is actually at the stage it could produce a light periodical... maybe one issue every 6 months. It can even be digital to make it simple. The publishing resources are there, it's all about getting the right contributors!

CC

[CrazyCarl]

Damn Lorne... makin' me miss the roads out there! Fn'A!


CC

[ChinaV]

Day 12

Sorry for the delay in posting, a few moments of sunshine this weekend and my V-Strom was feeling neglected after weeks of sitting idle.

Another day in paradise as we awoke at the hot springs resort and prepared to head north. We would be connecting with S217, a road I had previously travelled with CrazyCarl, and I was looking forward to one of the climbs that takes you to 4800 meters / 15,750 feet of elevation.



As Felix and I stopped at one of the overlooks, Daniel passed by, and that was last we saw of him for the day. Somehow signals got crossed, and he missed our planned rendezvous in Daocheng. Not a big deal, as we were only going about 250 kilometers, and our end destination of Litang was a pretty small town.



Zooming in for a closer look at a monastery off in the distance.



Felix stopped for a shot of his bike with thousands of prayer flags.



Tibetan script on the hillside in one of the towns we passed through, I'm not exactly sure what it says. From here, Felix and I took a little detour to one of the peaks off of S217.



To get to this peak, you need to make it up a steep trail. I previously climbed it the last time I came through with CrazyCarl. This time wasn't so easy, as the middle section was all ice and the narrow path going up was pretty soft. The bikes were struggling with the elevation and eventually we both had to stop about 25 meters from the summit. We got off and clutched the hell out of the little engines while running along side and pushing. It doesn't sound so difficult, but I assure you, any activity at those elevations feels like running a marathon. We both collapsed at the top and just sat there panting and laughing.



Elevation makes you... stupid.



Trying to jump high enough to get over 4800 meters.



I'm not exactly sure what the message is from Felix, but I love the photo.



Out of nowhere, came a few locals riding a little 125. Their bike made it up without any issue, and they hardly looked bothered by the lack of oxygen.



Relaxing with our new friends at the summit.



A shot of me coming down the trail. I think CrazyCarl has the exact same picture from 2008.



We stopped in the snow to throw snowballs at each other.



After our little sojourn to 4800 meters, it was time to make up some time and head to Litang. We passed some more lovely monasteries.



This giant boulder area on S217 is a very strange place.





We stopped for a break about half way to Litang. What an amazing view of the snow capped mountains and the land of giant boulders.





Tuer means rabbit in Chinese, notice the spelling of mountain on the sign.



Can you see the rabbit ears in the background?



Have a closer look.



Everyone managed to make it to Litang and we found Daniel at one of the local hangouts. We all filled our belly's, and stocked up on provisions, before heading out of town with hopes of finding a quiet place to sleep.



We came to this fine establishment and each of us was given one of these cool little buildings for only 30 RMB.



The inside had plenty of room, so we hung out at my place and discussed routes to Chengdu with the owner and his friend. After many hours, beers, and discussion topics, we decided to turn in. It was a rough night sleeping, as we were still at 4000 meters, and the Tibetan dogs yelped continuously until the wee hours of the morning.



Cheers!
ChinaV

Distance = 242 Kilometers - Time = 8:30 - Average Moving Speed = 58 kph

[jmgoujun]

HI I want ask you ,where aer you now?????