"Fortunately, I remembered seeing a little hot springs resort about 35 kilometers back and we managed to pull in just as it got dark. The place was clean and had a huge hot spring swimming pool. Better yet, the place was mostly empty and they had cold beer. Rewarded again"

Now that was fortuitous indeed. You are obviously making enough thanks and appreciation (libations? lol) to the local spirits as you go, and observing protocol with the elders. That will keep you safe and happy. Thanks for all the photos, they are good to see, especially the people. The smallest touches of adornment or decoration make them interesting and different despite the many 'western' clothes. I found that by scrolling the pic up to lose the heads, you can still sense the foreign or rather 'exotic'. i am really enjoying this trip with you guys. I feel that despite the many modern encroachments including turning the whole region into a pay for entry theme park, the natural, perhaps tribal or regional differences will hang on for a while yet. Do you feel that or do you see it as all disappearing too quickly?

Another thing I notice is that despite what seems like inhospitable and poor terrain, every little portion that can possibly be terraced and farmed is utilised. Some lessons there for us wasteful westerners. Is it all down to a chemical and additive free diet so 'night soil' can go to the land rather than the sea i wonder?